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[Original Journal, Pages 173-175.]

[June, 1792.]

three in the afternoon we were obliged to anchor in 20 fathoms water, sandy bottom.

In this situation New Dungeness bore by compass S. 54 W.; the east point of Protection island S. 15 W.; the west point of Admiralty inlet, which after my much esteemed friend Captain George Wilson of the navy, I distinguished by the name of POINT WILSON, S. 35 E. situated in latitude 48° 10', longitude 237° 31'; the nearest shore east, two leagues distant; a low sandy island, forming at its west end a low cliff, above which some dwarf trees are produced from N. 26 W. to N. 40 W.; and the proposed station for the vessels during the examination of the continental shore by the boats, which, from Mr. Broughton who had visited it, obtained the name of STRAWBERRY BAY, N. 11 W. at the distance of about six leagues, situated in a region apparently much broken and divided by water. Here we remained until seven in the evening; we then weighed, but with so little wind, that after having drifted to the southward of our former station, we were obliged again to anchor until six the next morning, Thursday the 7th, when we made an attempt to proceed, but were soon again compelled to become stationary near our last situation.

On reflecting that the summer was now fast advancing, and that the slow progress of the vessels occasioned too much delay, I determined, rather than lose the advantages which the prevailing favorable weather now afforded for boat expeditions, to dispatch Mr. Puget in the launch, and Mr. Whidbey in the cutter, with a week's provisions, in order that the shores should be immediately explored to the next intended station of the vessels, whither they would proceed as soon as circumstances would allow. In this arrangement

navy.

George Wilson. Here Vancouver mentions one of his friends in the He evidently did not attain high rank or much prominence. Usual sources of information about such are blank about this George Wilson. He was post captain on the active list in 1793, and was still a captain in 1797 at the capture of Trinidad. He was at one time with the Bellona of seventy-four guns. These meagre facts are mentioned casually in the records of others.

[June, 1792.]

[Original Journal, Pages 175-176.]

I was well aware, it could not be considered judicious to part with our launch, whilst the ship remained in a transitory unfixed state in this unknown and dangerous navigation; yet she was so essentially necessary to the protection of our detached parties, that I resolved to encounter some few difficulties on board, rather than suffer the delay, or lose so valuable an opportunity for the prosecution of the survey. In directing this, orders were given not to examine any openings to the northward, beyond Strawberry bay, but to determine the boundaries of the continental shore leading to the north and eastward, as far as might be practicable to its parallel, whither they were to resort after performing the task assigned. On this service they departed, and directed their course for the first opening on the eastern shore about 3 or 4 leagues distant, bearing by compass from the ship N. by E.

Having repaired to the low sandy island already noticed, for the purpose of taking some angles, I found some rocks. lying on its western side nearly three quarters of a mile from its shores; and that the eastern part of it was formed by a very narrow low spit of land, over which the tide nearly flowed. Its situation is in latitude 48° 24', longitude 237° 261. Amongst the various bearings that it became necessary to take here, were those of the two remarkably high snowy mountains so frequently mentioned. Mount Baker bore N. 63 E.; mount Rainier S. 27 E.; and from a variety of observations purposely made for fixing their respective situations, it appeared that mount Baker was in latitude

480

39', longitude 238° 20′, and mount Rainier in latitude 47° 3', longitude 238° 21'. To the southward of these were now seen two other very lofty, round, snowy mountains, lying apparently in the same north and south direction, or nearly so; but we were unable to ascertain their positive situation. The summits of these were visible only at two or three stations in the southern parts of Admiralty inlet; they appeared to be covered with perpetual snow as low down as we were enabled to see, and seemed as if they rose from an extensive plain of low country.

[Original Journal, Pages 176-178.]

[June, 1792.]

When due attention is paid to the range of snowy mountains that stretch to the southward from the base of mount Rainier, a probability arises of the same chain being continued, so as to connect the whole in one barrier along the coast, at uncertain distances from its shores; although intervals may exist in the ridge where the mountains may not be sufficiently elevated to have been discernable from our several stations. The like effect is produced by the two former mountains, whose immense height permitted their appearing very conspicuously, long before we approached sufficiently near to distinguish the intermediate range of rugged mountains that connect them, and from whose summits their bases originate.

About six in the evening, with a light breeze from the S. W. we weighed and stood to the northward; but after having advanced about II miles, the wind became light and obliged us to anchor about nine that evening, in 37 fathoms water, hard bottom, in some places rocky; in this situation we were detained by calms until the afternoon of the following day, Friday the 8th. Our observed latitude here, was 48° 29', longitude 237° 29': the country, occupying the northern horizon in all directions, appeared to be excessively broken and insulated. Strawberry bay bore, by compass, N. 10 W. about three leagues distant; the opening on the continental shore, the first object for the examination of the detached party, with some small rocky inlets before its entrance that appeared very narrow, bore, at the distance of about five miles, S. 87 E.; point Partridge S. 21 E.; the low sandy island south; the south part of the westernmost shore, which is composed of islands and rocks, S. 37 W. about two miles distant; the nearest shore was within about a mile; a very dangerous sunken rock, visible only at low tide, lies off from a low rocky point on this shore, bearing N. 79 W.; and a very unsafe cluster of small rocks, some constantly, and others visible only near low water, bore N. 15 W. about two miles and a half distant.

This country presented a very different aspect from that which we had been accustomed to behold further south.

[June, 1792.]

[Original Journal, Pages 178-180.]

The shores now before us were composed of steep rugged rocks, whose surface varied exceedingly in respect to height, and exhibited little more than the barren rock, which in some places produced a little herbage of a dull color, with a few dwarf trees.

With a tolerably good breeze from the north, we weighed about three in the afternoon, and with a flood tide, turned up into Strawberry bay, where, in about three hours, we anchored in 16 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. This bay is situated on the west side of an island, which, producing an abundance of upright cypress, obtained the name of CyPRESS ISLAND. The bay is of small extent, and not very deep; its south point bore by compass S. 40 E.; a small islet, forming nearly the north point of the bay, round which is a clear good passage west; and the bottom of the bay east, at the distance of about three quarters of a mile. This situation, though very commodious, in respect to the shore, is greatly exposed to the winds, and sea in a S. S. E. · direction.

In consequence of the wind ceasing, the Chatham, whilst endeavoring to gain this anchorage, was, by a strong flood tide, driven to the eastward of the island, where she was compelled to anchor. The next morning, Saturday 9th, received from Mr. Broughton a letter acquainting me, that, having been obliged to anchor on a rocky bottom, on account of the strength and irregularity of the tide, their stream cable had been cut through by the rocks; and that, after several attempts to recover the anchor, the rapidity of the tide had rendered all their efforts ineffectual; and he was very apprehensive that, remaining longer in that situation, for the purpose of repeating his endeavors, might endanger the loss also of the bower anchor by which they were then riding. In reply, I desired, if the anchor could not be regained by the next slack tide, that they would desist, rather than run a risk of still greater importance.

A fine sandy beach, forming the shores of the bay, gave us the hope of procuring a good supply of fish, as the Chatham, on her former visit, had been very successful, we were

[Original Journal, Pages 180-181.]

[June, 1792.]

however, unfortunately mistaken; the seine was repeatedly hauled, but to no effect.

The Chatham arrived in the bay on Sunday morning, the 10th, with the loss of her stream anchor; and in the afternoon the boats returned from their survey.

From the officers, I became acquainted, that the first inlet communicated with port Gardner, by a very narrow and intricate channel, which, for a considerable distance, was not forty yards in width, and abounded with rocks above and beneath the surface of the water. These impediments, in addition to the great rapidity and irregularity of the tide, rendered the passage navigable only for boats or vessels of very small burthen. This determined all the eastern shore of the gulf, from S. W. point of this passage, in latitude 48° 27', longitude 237° 37', to the north point of entrance into Possession sound, in latitude 47° 53', longitude 237° 47', to be an island, which, in its broadest part, is about ten miles across; and in consequence of Mr. Whidbey's circumnavigation, I distinguished by the name of WHIDBEY'S ISLAND: and this northern pass, leading into port Gardner, DECEPTION PASSAGE.

Hence they proceeded to the examination of the continental coast leading to the northward, and entered what appeared to be a spacious sound, or opening, extending widely in three directions to the eastward of our present station. One,

Joseph Whidbey. This is another aggravating case of a name attaining increasing importance in geography while the life of its original owner is lost in oblivion. All that is now known of Joseph Whidbey is gleaned from Vancouver's journal of the voyage. Whidbey was mustered in as master on the Discovery and he remained in that position throughout the cruise. Being one of the officers, his name and rank only are recorded in the muster tables, while his age and birthplace are omitted. His name is frequently mentioned in the journals, for he was one of the most useful men on the expedition. He often had charge of crews in the small boats sent on side trips of exploration. It was in this way that he found the large island that bears his name. When party started south from Nootka, Whidbey was directed to take one of the Discovery's boats into the storeship Dadalus and proceed with a survey of Gray's Harbor. This work he did in his usual thorough manner, and Vancouver records the result with a chart of the harbor in his journals.

the

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