[August, 1792.] [Original Journal, Pages 329-330.] but as the distressing event of Mr. Hergest's death necessarily demanded my presence in the execution of His Majesty's commands at Nootka, I determined to repair thither immediately. This determination favored also another design I much wished to execute, namely, that of extending the examination of the coast this autumn, southward from cape Mendocino, to the southernmost point of our intended investigations in this hemisphere. Having the greatest reason to be satisfied with the result of our summer's employment, as it had by the concurrence of the most fortunate circumstances enabled us finally to trace and determine the western continental shore of North America, with all its various turnings, windings, numerous arms, inlets, creeks, bays, etc., etc. from the latitude of 39° 5', longitude 236° 36′, to point Menzies, in latitude 52° 18', longitude 232° 55'; we took our leave of these northern solitary regions, whose broken appearance presented a prospect of abundant employment for the ensuing season, and directed our route through the passage above-mentioned, in order to make the best of our way towards Nootka. CHAPTER XII MEETING WITH QUADRA AT NOOTKA - NEGOTIATIONS OVER THE TRANSFER OF SOVEREIGNTY [Original Journal, Pages 331-332, Book II, Chapter X.J [August, 1792.] HAVING on Sunday the 19th directed our course towards a passage, which appeared to lead to the ocean as stated in the last chapter, its N. E. point of entrance was found to be situated in latitude 51° 45', longitude 232° 1′; south of this point lies a sunken rock, which though near the shore is dangerous, being visible at low tide only by the surf that breaks upon it. In turning into the channel we must have passed twice very near it, but did not discover it until we were some distance beyond it; and had not light baffling winds retarded our progress, it would have escaped our notice. From the point above-mentioned the passage extends S. 60 W. about seven miles; its northern shore is composed of rocky islets and rocks, with some scattered rocks lying off its southern shore: between these and the rocky islets is the passage, generally from one to two miles wide, without any apparent obstruction, yet it is rendered unpleasant by the want of soundings, as within 50 and 100 yards of the shore, on either side, no bottom could be obtained, with 150 fathoms line. In this very disagreeable situation we were detained by faint unsteady winds until eleven at night, when, by the assistance of a light breeze from the S. E. we reached the ocean, and stood to the south-westward. The next morning, Monday the 20th, was very unpleasant; fresh squalls from the S. E. attended with thick rainy weather, continued until noon the following day, Tuesday the 21st, when it cleared up, and we saw Scot's islands, bearing S. 22 E. about seven leagues distant. The wind during the day was [August, 1792.] [Original Journal, Pages 332-334.] light and variable, though attended with fair weather; in the evening it seemed fixed at S. S. W. when, not being able to pass to the windward of Scot's islands, our course was directed to the north of them, towards cape Scot, having soundings and a soft muddy bottom at the depth of eighty and ninety fathoms, until about nine in the evening, when the water suddenly shoaled from sixty to seventeen fathoms, and the bottom became rocky. On this we instantly stood back to the westward, lest we should approach some danger, but we did not perceive either breakers or shoals, although the night was still and clear. These soundings were from the westernmost of Scot's islands N. 18 E. about five leagues; from this circumstance, and from the distant rocks and shoals we saw extending from the shores of Calvert's islands, it is highly necessary that the space between Calvert's and Scot's island's should be navigated with great caution. We were detained about Scot's islands by light variable winds until Friday the 24th, when we passed to the south of them, and continued to the eastward along their southern shores. The westernmost of them is situated in latitude 50° 52', longitude 231° 2'. The group consists of three small and almost barren islands, with many small rocks and breakers about them. West from the westernmost of them, a ledge of rocks extends about two miles, and south of it is another about a league distant. The easternmost of Scot's islands being much larger than the rest, may probably be the same to which Mr. Hanna gave the name of "Cox's island;" by others of the traders it has been represented as a part of the main; this is certainly wrong, and as Mr. Hanna's chart is very erroneous, even in point of latitude, no certain conclusion can be drawn. The wind, which was from the westward, was so light, that it was not until the forenoon of Saturday the 25th, that we passed the N. W. point of the large island, which forms the south and western shores of the gulf of Georgia and Queen Charlotte's sound. This point (called by former visitors "Cape Scott") is situated in latitude 50° 48', longitude 231° [Original Journal, Pages 334-335] [August, 1792.] 40', and with the easternmost of Scot's islands, forms a passage which appears to be about four miles wide. About cape Scot the land is composed of hills of moderate height, though to the south-eastward it soon becomes very mountainous, and at the distance of three or four leagues appeared to be much broken and to form many inlets, coves, and harbours, all the way to Woody point, which we passed in the afternoon within the distance of about two miles; it is situated in latitude 50° 6', longitude 232° 17'. West from it lies a small rocky islet about half a league distant, and another larger one lying N. 28 W. about a league from the north part of the point, which is an extensive and projecting promontory. From Woody point as we sailed along the shore to the eastward, we saw several openings in the land, which was about three or four miles from us, that appeared like coves and harbours. Innumerable rocky islets and rocks lined the shores, which as we advanced became low, but the country behind swelled into hills of considerable height divided by many valleys; beyond these it rose to mountains so elevated, that even at this season of the year many patches of snow were yet undissolved. As I intended to ascertain the outline of the coast from hence down to Nootka; at dark we brought to, about six leagues to the eastward of Woody point, in expectation of accomplishing this design the following day, but in this I was disappointed; the N. W. wind was succeeded by light winds, which continued until the afternoon of Tuesday the 28th, and prevented in the present instance my acquiring such authority as I deemed necessary for delineating this part of the coast. Foggy weather during the forenoon precluded us the advantage of steering for Nootka with the favorable wind that prevailed from the N. W. but on its clearing away about two we steered for that port. On reaching its entrance we were visited by a Spanish officer, who brought a pilot to conduct the vessel to anchorage in Friendly cove, where we found riding his Catholic Majesty's brig the Active, bearing the broad pendant of Señor Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, [Original Journal, Pages 335-337.] [August, 1792.] commandant of the marine establishment of St. Blas and California. The Chatham, by the partial clearing of the fog, had found her way in some time before us: the Dadalus store ship, and a small merchant brig called the Three Brothers of London, commanded by Lieutenant Alder of the navy, were also there at anchor. As Señor Quadra resided on shore, I sent Mr. Puget to acquaint him with our arrival, and to say, that I would salute the Spanish flag, if he would return an equal number of guns. On receiving a very polite answer in the affirmative, we saluted with thirteen guns, which were returned, and on my going on shore accompanied by some of the officers, we had the honor of being received with the greatest cordiality and attention from the commandant, who informed me he would return our visit the next morning. Agreeably to his engagement, Señor Quadra with several of his officers came on board the Discovery, on Wednesday the 29th, where they breakfasted, and were saluted with thirteen guns on their arrival and departure: the day was afterwards spent in ceremonious offices of civility, with much harmony and festivity. As many officers as could be spared from the vessels with myself dined with Señor Quadra, and were gratified with a repast we had lately been little accustomed to, or had the most distant idea of meeting with at this place. A dinner of five courses, consisting of a superfluity of the best provisions, was served with great elegance; a royal salute was fired on drinking health to the sovereigns of England and Spain, and a salute of seventeen guns to the success of the service in which the Discovery and Chatham were engaged. Maquinna, who was present on this occasion, had early in the morning, from being unknown to us, been prevented coming on board the Discovery by the centinels and the officer on deck, as there was not in his appearance the smallest indication of his superior rank. Of this indignity he had complained in a most angry manner to Señor Quadra, who very obligingly found means to sooth him; and after receiving some presents of blue cloth, copper, etc., at breakfast |