approached the coast asked far and near for news of the Boston. This taught the Indians to associate the Stars and Stripes with the name of Boston. That, also, was planted into the Chinook jargon in which language "Boston-man" means "American." In a similar way the Englishmen of that day were always talking about King George and what he could do for his friends, the Indians, and the Chinook jargon was enriched with the phrase "King George-man," meaning Eng

lishman."

ture.

While pointing out the origin of the Chinook jargon at Nootka it may also be well to call attention to the fact that the name frequently occurs in disguised forms in scientific literaThe early explorers always collected specimens of the plants, birds, and animals. There are many fine evergreen trees in the botanical gardens of Europe grown from seeds collected on these shores by those first visitors. When the botanists or zoologists found that the specimens were new to science, they would proceed to describe them as from Nootka, and so we find such Latinized names as Nutkana, Nutkanus, and Nutkaensis bestowed upon a large number of species.

Nootka, wild, romantic Nootka, deserted and neglected by white men for more than a century, though once the most frequented harbor on the Pacific Coast of America, what a lure is this Nootka to one who has searched for truths among the rare and scattered records! With a heart filled with enthusiasm the present writer visited the famous little harbor of Friendly Cove in the summer of 1903. Being secretary, he undertook, on behalf of the Washington University State Historical Society, to erect a monument of granite to mark the place where Vancouver and Quadra met in August of 1792. The cost of the monument was borne for the Society by the pioneer, Orion O. Denny, the first white boy born in Seattle. Canadian law offered an obstacle in the way of customs charges. This condition annoyed the genial and dignified governor, Sir Henri Joly G. de Lotbiniere, who asked the privilege of bearing the charges himself. Thomas Stockham was about to construct a little trading post at Friendly Cove and volunteered to help with his crew of three white

men and one Indian to hoist the heavy granite to its place on the summit of a rocky islet in the mouth of the harbor. Here we placed the monument, with its inscription facing the sea, on August 23, 1903.

Vancouver was fortunate in having with him some artists of real merit. One was John Sykes, who was mustered in at the age of nineteen as a midshipman, though he was promoted to master's mate on February 1, 1791. The beautiful pictures engraved on steel for the illustrations of Vancouver's "Voyage" were drawn by Sykes, Mudge, and Humphries. The view of Friendly Cove was very useful during this visit over a century afterward. By it could be picked out the famous acre in dispute where Meares had built his schooner. On that spot was found a small Catholic chapel and Mission home, where Father Brabant lived when he visited the village of Indians once a year. On this same acre we camped while erecting the monument. With the same picture could be located the little Spanish fort, and exploration in that vicinity was rewarded by the finding of a number of the flat tile-like Spanish brick known to have been used in the foundations.

The scenes of Jewitt's experiences as one of Maquinna's slaves were visited, more especially the little lake where he and Thompson stole away for their rude religious services. The little Indian village had undergone many changes during the last century, but the lake shows that it has remained the same. The shores are clothed with forest and undergrowth. The path that leads from the village to the lake is worn deep in the gravel, evidence, probably, of several centuries of use. Herring spawn in this harbor by the millions. The Indians gather hemlock boughs and weight them down in the water with stones. When covered with eggs they are dried on specially built racks, and then the eggs are stored for winter use. Jewitt described the process accurately in 1803, and the same kind of racks were found there in 1903.

It would seem appropriate to add one more item of research. Washington Irving's charming book "Astoria" reaches a climax on this same west coast of Vancouver Island, when the ship Tonquin was blown up and Captain

Jonathan Thorn and his entire crew were lost. There has never been any doubt as to the loss of the ship and her crew; the how and the where have baffled all searchers up to the present time. Irving in his beautiful diction causes James Lewis the clerk to become prophetic on leaving the newly planted log fort at Astoria. Lewis tells his friends that he will meet a strange fate. The ship sailed away to trade with the Indians. Off Gray's Harbor an Indian called Lamanse was picked up and made a member of the party as guide and interpreter. Irving then causes the ship to anchor at Nootka in a harbor he calls Newetee. Captain Thorn neglected the strict orders of John Jacob Astor against allowing more than a very few Indians on deck at a time. In parting with his captain, Astor reiterated this caution by saying, "All accidents which have as yet happened there arose in too much confidence in the Indians."

Captain Thorn, reared in the old-fashioned navy, was a strict disciplinarian and had abundant confidence in his men and guns. The Indian chief was a haggler, and Thorn snatched his roll of furs and rubbed the chief's nose with it. He felt triumphant the next day when the Indians seemed ardent for trade. Each brave chose a knife for his pay, and as the captain finally listened to the warning of his men and gave orders to clear away, the Indian signal was given and the crew was promptly slaughtered. Five fell through an open hatch, and these put the Indians to flight by shooting through the hatchway. Four of the men sought safety by flight in an open boat during the night. Clerk Lewis remained on the ship. The next day the Indians, seeing but one man who made friendly signs, cautiously approached and before long the deck was crowded. Then Lewis fired the magazine, and a terrific explosion followed. Many Indians were killed, and the remnant of the village was in a ferment of rage. The four sailors, held in the harbor's edge by storms, were found, and the author says it would have been well for them had they shared the tragic fate of Lewis.

All having been destroyed, how did Irving learn these tragic details? It is known that Irving collected all of Astor's

papers and many books, and that he got the rich fur trader so deeply interested that the fine Astor Library of New York is one of the results. One of the books most useful to Irving was that by Gabriel Franchere, one of the clerks at Astoria. This author secured his story of the Tonquin from Lamanse on his return to Gray's Harbor. This Indian guide was spared in the slaughter by his becoming a voluntary slave and later escaped to his own people. His scant record was amplified in "Astoria."

Since then the harbor of Newetee has been searched for by no less an authority than Professor George Davidson, of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, and now of the University of California. He could not locate it, nor has any one else been able to do so with certainty. Since the other details have depended upon the story of Lamanse, so now the location of the tragedy will depend upon the story of Teetska, or "Smiling Tom."

This Indian is a native of Clayoquot and later lived at Hesquiat, just south of Nootka Sound. He was still living there in 1903 and was then counted about sixty-five years of age. Hesquiat is the home of Father Brabant, the missionary already referred to, who settled there in the spring of 1874. Teetska's father was a slave at Clayoquot. About twenty years ago, this slave, after attaining the age of about eighty years, died and was buried by Father Brabant. Teetska became the friend of the missionary and moved to Hesquiat. Among other information Father Brabant received from Teetska was the tradition obtained from his father of the blowing up of a ship and the place was located at "Clayoquot-Tskwe. The tradition helps to locate the place by the floating of blankets to the shore from the wreck. Father Brabant thus locates the scene of the Tonquin tragedy at a place called "Itsape," or on the lee of Lennard Island, at the entrance of Clayoquot Sound.

In relating this tradition to the present writer in 1903, Father Brabant stated that Captain Walbran, formerly of the steamer Quadra, had also obtained the same account from an old Indian doctor.

CHAPTER IV

LIFE OF BODEGA Y QUADRA

ON Tuesday, August 28, 1792, Vancouver says that he anchored in Friendly Cove, "where we found riding his Catholic Majesty's brig the Active, bearing the broad pendant of Señor Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, commandant of the marine establishment of St. Blas and California."

This is the greatest Spaniard of them all. It is extremely aggravating to find him wholly ignored in almost every one of the encyclopædias and other collections of biographies. The exact year of his birth is unknown, but is usually put at about 1740. He was born in Lima, Peru, and, though his parents were of noble blood, his birthplace was a handicap. It needs only to be remembered that offices and commands in the new world were given to those of Castilian birth to know how difficult it was for a native of Lima to climb to high station. That is likely the reason that Bruno Heceta was given chief command of the famous expedition of 1775. Quadra was second then, but he achieved so much in the sloop Sonora, a little boat only thirty-six feet long, twelve feet wide, and eight feet deep, that he was quickly honored and rapidly advanced. He proved his courage and ability on this and other occasions until 1792 he was selected for the unpleasant duty of going to Nootka, where he was to fulfil the terms of the Nootka Convention between Spain and Great Britain of October 28, 1790. He was to represent Spain, and at Nootka he would be met by a man authorized to represent Great Britain.

Vancouver and Quadra at once became strong personal friends, and enjoyed many visits with each other, but they