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a pedigree: but the Esterhazys beat them | nise with that of your music. Go, and all hollow. will supply you with all you want." my attendants next day Haydn was travestied into a gentleman. The Friedberg often told me of the awkwardness of the poor Maestrino in his new habiliments. He had such a gawky look that everybody burst into a laugh his genius had room to manifest itself, grew daily, and he soon obtained so completely the good-will of at his first appearance. His reputation, however, as his master, that the extraordinary favour of wearing his own hair and his simple clothes was granted to his entreaties. The surname of the Blackymoor, however, which the prince bestowed upon him, stuck to him for years after.'-Paget, vol. i. pp. 43,

44.

In one room we noticed the genealogical tree of all the Esterhazys, in which it is made out, as clearly as possible, that, beginning with Adam, who reclines in a very graceful attitude at the bottom of the tree, they pass through every great name, Jewish as well as Heathen, from Moses to Attila, till they find themselves what they now are, magnates of Hungary. What is still more extraordinary, there is a long series of portraits of these worthies, from Attila inclusive, with their wives and families dressed in the most approved fashion, and continued down to the present century.'-Puget, vol. i. p. 49.

It may check our inclination to laugh if we reflect on the famous gallery of Scottish princes at Holyrood, which provoked a joke from the Persian ambassador by their atrocity:- You paint all these yourself?' said his excellency to the housekeeper.-'Me, sir ?-hoot, no sir!I canna paint, please your honour.' 'You not know, ma'am-you try, ma'am -you do a great deal better, ma'am.'

'The

no

There is yet a circumstance connected with this family which will interest many of our readers. Haydn was their chapelmaster for more than thirty years, and when he first emerged from obscurity was a performer in their band. bility of the Spensers,' says Gibbon, has been illustrated and enriched by the trophies of Marlborough, but I exhort them to consider the Fairy Queen as the most precious jewel of their coronet.' nobility of the Esterhazys has been illusThe trated by their coats, their shepherds, their palaces, and their mistresses; but we exhort them to consider their patronage of Haydn as not the worst monument of their munificence. The manner in which he first attracted attention is related on Carpani's authority. It seems that a friend named Friedberg had induced him to compose a piece for the prince's birthday :--

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Scarcely had the musicians got through the first allegro, when the prince interrupted them to ask who was the author of so beautiful a piece. Friedberg dragged the modest, trembling Haydn from a corner of the room into which he had crept, and presented him as the fortunate composer. "What," cried the prince, as he came forward, "that Blackymoor!" Haydn's complexion was none of those which mock the lily's whiteness.) forth you shall be in my service: what's your name?" Well, blacky, from henceJoseph Haydn." my band; how is it I never saw you here before?" But you are already one of The modesty of the young composer closed his lips, but the prince soon put him at his ease. get some clothes suitable to your rank,-don't let me "Go and see you any more in such a guise; you are too small; you look miserable, sir; get some new clothes, a fine wig with flowing curls, a lace collar, and red heels to your shoes. But mind, let your heels be high, that the elevation of your person may harmo

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23 64

Mr. Paget's book abounds with information regarding the trade, agriculture, customs, manners, traditions, and local peculiarities of Hungary, but we can only find room for his description of a Presburg dinner party :—

As is the custom, the invitation was verbal, and with a well-polished floor, on which, I am sorry to say, the hour two o'clock. The drawing room into which we were ushered was a spacious uncarpeted room, ously expectorate. Uncarpeted rooms, it may be reI observed more than one of the guests very unceremoniin warm climates; indeed, in some houses, where English fashions predominate, I have seen small marked, though bare to the eye, are pleasant enough stools of wood introduced to protect the pretty feet of their mistresses from the heat of the carpet. It is

and coolly to arrange those martial appendages in the not an uncommon thing for a second-rate French dandy to carry a little brosse à moustache about him, street, or at the cafe; but I was a good deal surprised to see the exquisites of Presburg drawing well-proporthose operations usually confined in England to the tioned hair-brushes from their pockets, and performing within the sacred precincts of the drawing-room. But dressing-room, in the presence of a party of ladies, and these were trifles compared to the solecisms committed at the dinner-table. a table-knife, talking at the same time to the lady next One of the guests occupied a little spare time between the courses in scraping his nails with him, while his vis-à-vis was deliberately picking his teeth with a silver fork.

here, the dishes were carried round to every one in "The dinner was most profuse; and, as is usual turn, the table being covered with the dessert. I can neither tell the number nor quality of all the courses, and many even of those I did taste were new to me. for it was quite impossible to eat of the half of them; Hungarian cookery is generally savoury, but too however, are excellent; but the stranger rarely finds greasy to be good. Some of the national dishes, them except in the peasant's cottage. The Hungarians, like ourselves, run after bad foreign fashions, to the neglect of the good wholesome dishes of their forefathers.

and, as a rarity, some Hungarian wines. I say as a 'We had abundance of Champagne and Bordeaux, rarity, because in many houses not a glass of any-nately, Hungarian wines are not only good but cheap, thing but foreign wine can be obtained. Unfortuble. After dinner we adjourned to coffee, when pipes and that is enough to prove they cannot be fashionawere introduced, without a word of remonstrance from dinner party: at five o'clock we all left. In more the ladies, as if they were the common conclusion of a fashionable houses (this was one of a rich country gentleman), the dinner is rather later, the spitting confined to a sand-dish, set in the corner for that purpose; the cookery more decidedly French or German; the guests more stiff and correct, but, perhaps on that

account, less agreeable ; and the smoking banished formed for its promotion, and plays are from the drawing-room to the sanctum of the host.'— acted in it at Prague. Paget, vol. i. pp. 12–14.

Mr. Gleig, who evidently writes under The highest class are pretty nearly the an impression that the language was supsame all the world over. The curious in pressed, says that he found many traces manners will therefore prefer dining a of a hankering after their ancient institustep or two lower down ; and it is really tions* amongst the Bohemians, and introinstructive to observe how the habits of duces a nobleman propounding in good nations, approaching the same degree of set terms the familiar objection to aristorefinement, correspond. As regards the cracies, but we rather think their lamensmoking, spitting, and irregular employ- tations are much of the same sort as those ment of the fork, we might fancy our

of Andrew Fairservice over the conseselves in New York; and towards the quences of the Union; and throughout the commencement of the last century, an

whole of the German States of the empire English exquisite was seldom unprovided there is the most perfect confidence in with the implements of the toilet. In one the continued good intentions of their of Vanbrugh's comedies, the waiting-maid emperors. True, there is hardly the formally announces that the gentlemen shadow of a check; there are no elective are combing below; and we are by no municipalities as in Prussia ; and the means certain that it would not be better army, from the longer period of service, to revive the practice than make the fin- has much less of the citizen character. gers do the office of the comb. One of The sole organ of the popular voice, the most eminent French statistical writ- therefore, in case of dissatisfaction, would ers once took his station near the stair- be the States, who, like the old French case at a London ball, for the purpose of parliaments, might constitutionally refuse ascertaining the proportion of gentlemen to register the supplies. Yet none of who arranged their hair with their fin- them have a notion that their practical gers before entering the room, and found liberty is dependent upon the caprice of them to average about twenty-nine out of an individual; and well-informed observthirty ; those who had least or most hair ers state that the government, far from occupying most time

upon
the average.

venturing to make any essential change Transylvania, which is described with bearing on the enjoyments of the people, equal fulness by Mr. Paget, is nearly in would hardly venture to disturb the existthe same condition, political and social, ing order of bureaucracy. as Hungary; so that Austria stands a fair

We should be glad to accompany the chance of losing this portion of her do. Subaltern in one of his adventurous ramminions, unless Prince Metternich's usual bles, which are described with great spirit, tact and good luck should work miracles. though he occasionally makes strange Mr. Paget assures us that the Hungarians havoc with the names; but we can only -(meaning the second-class nobles, for afford room for his visit to the castle of the lower orders are nonentities, and the Tetchen in Bohemia, a seat of Count magnates are bound up with the court)— Thun-Hohenstein-one of the chief hishave no intention of aiming at indepen- toric names of Germany. The descripdence: neither had the Americans at the tion shows how a gentleman can feel, as breaking out of the war; but, resistance well as how a scholar can write. once commenced, there is no saying to what consummation it may lead.

* My friend, the Honourable Francis Scott, having

The kindly introduced me to Count Thun, I sent my card usual policy of the Austrian government by the waiter to the castle, and learned to my great is to give way. Thus, on the occasion of disappointment, that the family were all in Prague. their

pet plan for compelling the general It is needless to add, that, in the absence of the ownadoption of the German language in Bo. a very intelligent domestic, or that, returning on anhemia—where the old Sclavonic, with other occasion, I stand indebted to its owner for much variations, is the popular dialect—when kindness: I do not think, however, that there is any it was found that certain imperial ordi- of first accepting the hospitality of a stranger

, and then nances prepared for the purpose were describing the mode in which it was dispensed. I conlikely to be received like Prince Polig- tent myself, therefore, with stating that everything nac's ordinances in France, the government wheeled to the right about without * One of these may well excite the regrets of a a word, and have ever since been patro- Republican, There is a cell adjoining the Parlia.

ment chamber at Prague, in which 'naughty'kings nising the very language they were so

were confined. It is about fourteen feet by eight anxious to suppress. Societies have been / rather a narrow lodging for royalty.

6

in the household of Count Thun corresponds to his that even by these allusions to the habits of my host, high rank and cultivated tastes; and that he who has I am touching upon the line which common delicacy once enjoyed, even for a brief space, as I did, the seems to me to have prescribed; therefore when I pleasure of his conversation, will desire few things have stated that a brighter picture of domestic affecmore earnestly, than that another opportunity of so tion and happiness has rarely come under my obserdoing shall occur.

vation than that which my hurried visit to Tetchen "The castle of Tetchen is a very noble thing, and presented me, I pass to other matters, not perhaps in its situation magnificent. It crowns the summit of a themselves either more important or more interestrock overhanging the Elbe, and commands, from its ing, but affording freer scope to remark, because not windows, one of the most glorious prospects on calculated to jar against individual feeling.'— Gleig, which, even in this land of glorious scenery, the eye vol. ii. pp.

4-8. need desire to rest. Originally a baronial hold, it has, in the progress of time and events, gradually We must now concentrate our forces changed its character. It now resembles a college on Mrs. Trollope and the metropolis. or palace, more than a castle. You approach it from the town by a long gallery, walled in on both sides,

This lady is, beyond a doubt, one of the though open to the sky, and are conducted to an ex- cleverest and most remarkable writers of erected. They do not belong to any particular that takes in the whole object at a glance, tensive quadrangle

, round which the buildings are the day. With a quickness of observation school, unless that deserve to be so designated, which the Italian architects, some century and a half ago, an insight into motives that seem instinctintroduced, to the decided misfortune of the proprie- ive, a keen perception of the ridiculous, tors, into Germany. Thus, the schloss of which I and strong powers of humorous delineaof apartments, but each suite, besides being accessi- tion, she is the person of all others to ble by a door that opens to the court

, is surrounded expose pretension or unmask hypocrisy : along the interior by an open gallery, into which witness her Domestic Manners of the each individual chamber-door opens. The conse- Americans,' and 'the Vicar of Wrexhill,' quence is, that in winter, at least, it must be next to impossible to keep any part of the house warm, for which, after making every allowance for the drafts are endless, and the expo-ure to the at exaggeration and coarseness, is admiramosphere is very great.

ble for its graphic sketches, its analysis * When we visited Tetchen for the second time, of character, and its wit. But showing the contents of a very valuable green-house appeared to have been brought forth into the central court. up national absurdities or individual vulThe effect was most striking; for all sorts of rare garity, is a very different thing from and sweet-smelling shrubs were there ; and flowers speculating on institutions, or seizing the gardens, likewise, which lie under the rock, and in nice traits of manners which distinguish the management of which the count takes great de- the aristocracy of one great capital from light, were beautiful. One, indeed, a frunt garden, is another; and we cannot compliment Mrs. between the castle and the market-place, reminded of the two essential objects of this work. yet only in its infancy; but another, which comes Trollope on having succeeded in either me more of the shady groves of Oxford than of any. thing which I have observed on the continent. Her failure is mainly attributable to a Count Thun, moreover, having, visited Eng!”..d, cause which has proved equally fatal to and seen and justly appreciated the mauificent parks which form the characteristiccharm our scene

many other recent writers on continental ry, seems willing, as far as the diffe, ent situations of manners. the two countries will allow, to walk in our footsteps. It may be laid down as a rule of gen. He has enclosed a rich meadow that runs by the eral application, that people not belonging bank of the Elbe, and treats it as his demesne. All to the highest class easily gain a step or this is the more praise-worthy on bis part, that even in his own day the castle of Tetchen has suffered two in society when abroad.

A man most of the calamities of war, except an actual siege. without the slightest claim to mix with Twice during the late struggle was it seized ard oc: the notabilities of London applies without cupied as a post, a garrison put into the house, and cannon mounted over the ramparts; nay, the very ceremony for letters to Schlegel, Tieck, trees in the garden, which it cost so much pains to Humboldt, Lamartine, Dupin, Alfred de cultivate, and such a lapse of time to nourish, were Vigny, or Chateaubriand ; and a woman, all destined to be cut down. Fortunately, however, born and bred in the middle class, will an earnest remonstrance from the Count procured a suspension of the order, till the enemy should make insist on being especially recommended his approaches; and as this never happened, the to the élite of the Fauxbourg St. Germain. trees still survive, to afford the comfort of their Some good-natured friend obliges them; shade both to their owner and his visitors.. The and if the gentleman happens to have a havoc occasioned by the throwing up of batteries was not, however, tó be avoided; and it is only with tolerable stock of information, and the in these three or four years that the mansion has re- lady boasts of beauty or a name, they get sumed its peaceful character.

asked to a few soirées, and occasionally * There is an excellent library in the castle of Tetchen, of which the inmates make excellent use.

find themselves in actual conversation It contains some valuable works in almost all the with individuals of European celebrityEuropean languages, with a complete set of the clas- to say nothing of mere princes and sics ; and as the tastes of the owner lead him to make duchesses. The consequence is, that on continnal accessions to it, the hall set apart for its reception, though of gigantic proportions, threatens their return home they unconsciously shortly to overflow. I must not forget, however, compare the comparatively humble circle

crats.'*

to which they belong with the brilliant pers, and Lord Lyndhurst for a jewelcircle they have just quitted, and vote headed cane. English society a bore, because Mr. Jen- Mrs. Trollope stands on a very different kins does not talk as well as Prince Met- footing. She travels to collect national ternich, or Mrs. Tomkins has not the characteristics, and only quotes or degrace of a Recamier.

scribes such as volunteer to undergo the Mrs. Trollope is too sensible a woman ordeal as the price of their reputation or to be dazzled by titles, or have her judg- their rank. But then, as the price of her ment warped by finery ; but there is the reputation, she must expect to hear and strongest internal evidence in her book, see little or nothing but what is intended that the English world of which she for her to hear and see. Je vous fais cadeau speaks is a world lying far beyond the de cela, added Prince Metternich, after reconfines of Mayfair; and it would have lating an anecdote which it was his obvibeen strange indeed if the attentions she ous wish to circulate. The expression received at Vienna had passed away like fully acquits Mrs. Trollope of any breach a shadow whilst she was yet upon the of confidence, but it shows that the prince spot, and left her mind quite free for a was constantly on his guard, and was comparison of her kind hosts and host- cramming her for his own purposes as esses with the “pampered English aristo- palpably as M. von Raumer was ever

crammed by the Whigs. When you We have another ground of exception, come to the eyes, Mr. Carmine, let me of almost universal application like the know, that I may call up a look,' says first. To understand and appreciate the Foote's lady of fashion to the portrait higher circles, or indeed any circles, you painter; and Mrs. Trollope may rest must live with them on a footing of assured that her Viennese ladies of fashequality. It will not do to enter them as ion adopted the same precaution. They a lion, unless you remain long enough for called up a look for the occasion : they the impression to wear off; still less will placed themselves in attitude at her apit do 'to come with the avowed inten- proach, and took good care, moreover, tion of book-making

that she should only paint them as Ma

dame de Stael says she painted herself.* • A chiel's amang ye takin' notes,

We shall justify this line of remark by And, faith, he'll prent it.'

showing, not merely the inaccuracy of The observation applies principally to many of her statements, but their inconthat class of worthies, mostly low Ame- sistency. As in the case of Miss Martiricans, who travel under a commission neau's work on America, her theories from a publisher to collect political, would be dangerous were they not provifashionable, and literary gossip, as regu- dentally contradicted by her facts. larly as a Birmingham bagman travels to

Even Isaac Tompkins admits that the collect orders for buttons or hardware ; best English society is the best. Why? to whom an invitation is worth a stated Because everybody is at his or her ease amount in dollars and cents—who pay - because everybody's position is fixedtheir washerwoman's bill with a soirée, because there is nothing to struggle forand dine for a week on a dinner-party because everybody is therefore free to Nay, it is hardly going too far to say that pursue the true objects of society-beevery celebrated man or woman who has cause everybody is sure of being treated the ill-luck to come across them, con- with politeness in the true acceptation of tributes something towards their neces.

the term—' La politesse est l'art de rendre sities or their finery. A fashionable nov

à chacun sans effort ce qui lui est socialeelist finds them in gilt chains and blue ment . Now most certainly this soglass studs, an eminent mathematician or ciety is not composed exclusively of pergeologist in white kid-gloves and pumps, sons born to hereditary distinction-any and a female writer on population in more than the best in Paris. Yet Mrs. small-clothes; whilst a lady of the bed. Trollope, though she has caught a glimpse chamber may stand good for a cloak, an of the truth, seems to claim for Viennese Irish agitator for boots to paddle through

* • Did you tell everything in your memoirs ?' the dirt, Lord Normanby for polished was the question. 'Je ne me suis peinte qu'en buste,' leather straps to go under the boots, Lord was the reply: Equally good was George the Melbourne for a dressing-gown and slip- had confessed all her former amours to the

Duke of York- What candour!' exclaimed the inform. * Vol. ii. p. 48.

ant— What a memory” rejoined the Prince.

society a monopoly of ease and independ- I have never, in any instance, heard a word either of ence on the ground of its more complete of the "haute colée" concerning the gay-plumaged admiration or contempt spoken by any individual exclusiveness. There are no parliamen- birds that flutter beneath them.... Of the poorer tary celebrities, no millionaires, no lite classes, on the contrary, the highest speak with the rary lions, and very rarely a lioness, to be greatest interest, and appear to feel both pride and pleasure in knowing well their condition, their found in it; and the consequences are amusements, their peculiar merits, and all the displain : tinctive traits of national character which distinguish them. Neither in England nor in France, and much less in America, have I ever heard or seen so much affectionate interest expressed for the comforts and enjoyments of the lower orders as I have witnessed here.'-Trollope, vol. ii., pp. 213, 214.

"If with us there is a stronger and more animated collision of intellect, at Vienna there is less risk of meeting within the arena of good society those whose more fitting place is without it. An habitué in the set which constitutes good company here, may venture to enter into conversation with his neighbour, even though a stranger, without any awkward doubts and fears as to the prudence and propriety of attempting the adventure; a sort of happy confidence, the want of which may probably be the origin of that species of sauvagerie with which we are often reproached.....

Should some uninitiated visitor in a London or

Paris salon, on the contrary, venture upon familiar conversation with any one, or every one he happened to meet there, without waiting for the ceremony of introduction, his chance of a happy result would embrace a variation within every degree from waterboil to spirit-freeze. He might find himself in communion with the first poet in existence, or the first boxer; might be exchanging civilities with a mighty silly peer of the realm, or with that peer's elegant, eloquent, and much more illustrious banker. He might be listening to the powerful language of a methodist parson, a profound philosopher, or a tragic actor; and would be equally likely to have made his experiment on the noble of twenty descents, or the parvenu of yesterday-on the most estimable man in Europe, or on the greatest rogue.'-Trollope, vol. ii. pp. 243, 244.

A Whig lady of the highest rank, who resided a good deal in the country, was warmly commended for her affability to the farmers' wives and daughters in the neighbourhood. 'Pray,' said a bystander, 'does she behave in the same manner to the wives and daughters of the clergymen and the squires?' Her admirer was obliged to answer that she did not. Can Mrs. Trollope, with her quickness of perception, avoid penetrating to the true motives of the difference? Can she help seeing that the studied silence of her Austrian friends was far more eloquent than words?

'I have told you that the noble and bousière aristocracies are very distinctly divided; and I must now describe to you, as well as I can, the effect of this strict division. On the higher class I should say that this effect (at least the outward and visible signs of it) was absolutely nothing. They never allude to the second class in any way whatever. There are no disdainful observations, no quizzing of plebeian magnificence, no hints concerning attempts to "come so near the heel of the courtier as to gall his kibe." And yet this magnificence, and this close following, meet their noble eyes at every turn, in the equipages that fill the streets, in the rich dresses that parade the ramparts and dash along the Prater, or in the theatres, where the too scanty supply of boxes appears to be pretty fairly divided between the two sets. But though I have listened to much unreserved talk on most subjects, and have even watched to catch observations on this,

But perhaps this city aristocracy are disqualified by habits of thought and manners for such society.

'Having told you, then, how the separation between the noble and the banking aristocracies shows

itself in the one set, I must with equal freedom, and with equal chance of blundering from not allowing sufficiently perhaps for exceptions, communicate my observations on the other. I must preface these, however, by assuring you, that though my acquaint

ance has not been greatly extended among the bankers of Vienna, I have met among the few I have known some very charming women; several of these are ac

In the salon of a Lafitte or a Mrs. Leo Hunter there may be mixtures of the sort -not in that society, either of London or Paris, which there is any pretence for comparing to the upper circles of Vienna. But let this pass: the question is, what effect is produced on the Viennese nobi-complished in the highest sense of the word, full of lity by their purism? and we think the talent, thoroughly well instructed, and with manners very least to be expected is, that they with all this, they cannot, generally speaking, look that might do honour to any circle in the world. But, will be more free, more natural, and less upwards with the same magnanimous indifference finically nice about their dignity: the with which those above them look down. There is great advantage of acknowledged rank or to resentment at the exclusiveness of the circle above evidently a feeling at the heart that is somewhat akin a well-defined position being, that you them; and in many individuals I have seen it break can afford to say anything or be seen in out in a manner so visible, as very materially to inpublic with anybody. We shall see- jure that tone of good society to which, in most other respects, they have such fair pretensions.

In this disunion there are two other remarkable features: the first is, that many gentlemen decidedly belonging to the higher class are to be met at the dinners, balls, and concerts of the lower; and the second, that if you chance to meet these same gentlemen afterwards, they rarely or never allude to these plebeian rencontres, but seem to prefer any other subject whatever. I am told also-but of this I speak not as having witnessed it-that should a lady of this class, who has given a ball over night, at which jewels sparkled and every elegance abounded

should such a lady meet the following morning on the ramparts a noble gentleman who had shared in the festivity, having a lady of his own class beside him, he will infallibly be seized with a defect of vision, or a visionary defect, and no light that can shine from heaven upon her velvet pelisse and waving plumes will be strong enough to enable him to recognise

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