a pedigree: but the Esterhazys beat them | nise with that of your music. Go, and my attendants all hollow.

account, less agreeable; and the smoking banished | formed for its promotion, and plays are from the drawing-room to the sanctum of the host.'-acted in it at Prague. Paget, vol. i. pp. 12-14.

Mr. Gleig, who evidently writes under

them have a notion that their practical liberty is dependent upon the caprice of an individual; and well-informed observers state that the government, far from venturing to make any essential change bearing on the enjoyments of the people, would hardly venture to disturb the existing order of bureaucracy.

The highest class are pretty nearly the an impression that the language was supsame all the world over. The curious in pressed, says that he found many traces manners will therefore prefer dining a of a hankering after their ancient institustep or two lower down; and it is really tions* amongst the Bohemians, and introinstructive to observe how the habits of duces a nobleman propounding in good nations, approaching the same degree of set terms the familiar objection to aristorefinement, correspond. As regards the cracies, but we rather think their lamensmoking, spitting, and irregular employ- tations are much of the same sort as those ment of the fork, we might fancy our of Andrew Fairservice over the conseselves in New York; and towards the quences of the Union; and throughout the commencement of the last century, an whole of the German States of the empire English exquisite was seldom unprovided there is the most perfect confidence in with the implements of the toilet. In one the continued good intentions of their of Vanbrugh's comedies, the waiting-maid emperors. True, there is hardly the formally announces that the gentlemen shadow of a check; there are no elective are combing below; and we are by no municipalities as in Prussia; and the means certain that it would not be better army, from the longer period of service, to revive the practice than make the fin- has much less of the citizen character. gers do the office of the comb. One of The sole organ of the popular voice, the most eminent French statistical writ- therefore, in case of dissatisfaction, would ers once took his station near the stair- be the States, who, like the old French case at a London ball, for the purpose of parliaments, might constitutionally refuse ascertaining the proportion of gentlemen to register the supplies. Yet none of who arranged their hair with their fingers before entering the room, and found them to average about twenty-nine out of thirty; those who had least or most hair occupying most time upon the average. Transylvania, which is described with equal fulness by Mr. Paget, is nearly in the same condition, political and social, as Hungary; so that Austria stands a fair chance of losing this portion of her dominions, unless Prince Metternich's usual tact and good luck should work miracles. Mr. Paget assures us that the Hungarians (meaning the second-class nobles, for the lower orders are nonentities, and the magnates are bound up with the court) have no intention of aiming at independence: neither had the Americans at the breaking out of the war; but, resistance once commenced, there is no saying to what consummation it may lead. The usual policy of the Austrian government is to give way. Thus, on the occasion of their pet plan for compelling the general adoption of the German language in Bohemia-where the old Sclavonic, with variations, is the popular dialect-when it was found that certain imperial ordinances prepared for the purpose were likely to be received like Prince Polignac's ordinances in France, the government wheeled to the right about without a word, and have ever since been patronising the very language they were so anxious to suppress. Societies have been

We should be glad to accompany the Subaltern in one of his adventurous rambles, which are described with great spirit, though he occasionally makes strange havoc with the names; but we can only afford room for his visit to the castle of Tetchen in Bohemia, a seat of Count Thun-Hohenstein-one of the chief his toric names of Germany. The description shows how a gentleman can feel, as well as how a scholar can write.

'My friend, the Honourable Francis Scott, having kindly introduced me to Count Thun, I sent my card by the waiter to the castle, and learned to my great disappointment, that the family were all in Prague.

a

It is needless to add, that, in the absence of the owners, I was conducted over the castle and grounds by very intelligent domestic, or that, returning on another occasion, I stand indebted to its owner for much kindness. I do not think, however, that there is any of first accepting the hospitality of a stranger, and then justification for the practice which too much prevails, describing the mode in which it was dispensed. I content myself, therefore, with stating that everything

* One of these may well excite the regrets of a ment chamber at Prague, in which naughty' kings Republican. There is a cell adjoining the Parlia were confined. It is about fourteen feet by eightrather a narrow lodging for royalty.

in the household of Count Thun corresponds to his high rank and cultivated tastes; and that he who has once enjoyed, even for a brief space, as I did, the pleasure of his conversation, will desire few things more earnestly, than that another opportunity of so doing shall occur.

"The castle of Tetchen is a very noble thing, and its situation magnificent. It crowns the summit of a rock overhanging the Elbe, and commands, from its windows, one of the most glorious prospects on which, even in this land of glorious scenery, the eye need desire to rest. Originally a baronial hold, it has, in the progress of time and events, gradually changed its character. It now resembles a college or palace, more than a castle. You approach it from the town by a long gallery, walled in on both sides, though open to the sky, and are conducted to an extensive quadrangle, round which the buildings are erected. They do not belong to any particular school, unless that deserve to be so designated, which the Italian architects, some century and a half ago, introduced, to the decided misfortune of the proprietors, into Germany. Thus, the schloss of which I am speaking is not only cut up into different suites of apartments, but each suite, besides being accessible by a door that opens to the court, is surrounded along the interior by an open gallery, into which each individual chamber-door opens. The consequence is, that in winter, at least, it must be next to impossible to keep any part of the house warm, for the drafts are endless, and the expo-ure to the at mosphere is very great.

that even by these allusions to the habits of my host, I am touching upon the line which common delicacy seems to me to have prescribed; therefore when I have stated that a brighter picture of domestic affection and happiness has rarely come under my observation than that which my hurried visit to Tetchen presented me, I pass to other matters, not perhaps in themselves either more important or more interesting, but affording freer scope to remark, because not calculated to jar against individual feeling.'—Gleig, | vol. ii. pp. 4–8.

We must now concentrate our forces on Mrs. Trollope and the metropolis.

This lady is, beyond a doubt, one of the cleverest and most remarkable writers of the day. With a quickness of observation that takes in the whole object at a glance, an insight into motives that seem instinctive, a keen perception of the ridiculous, and strong powers of humorous delineation, she is the person of all others to expose pretension or unmask hypocrisy : witness her 'Domestic Manners of the Americans,' and 'the Vicar of Wrexhill,' which, after making every allowance for exaggeration and coarseness, is admirable for its graphic sketches, its analysis When we visited Tetchen for the second time, of character, and its wit. But showing the contents of a very valuable green-house appeared to have been brought forth into the central court. up national absurdities or individual vulThe effect was most striking; for all sorts of rare garity, is a very different thing from and sweet-smelling shrubs were there; and flowers speculating on institutions, or seizing the of every dye loaded the air with their perfume. The nice traits of manners which distinguish gardens, likewise, which lie under the rock, and in the management of which the count takes great de- the aristocracy of one great capital from light, were beautiful. One, indeed, a fruit garden, is another; and we cannot compliment Mrs. yet only in its infancy; but another, which comes Trollope on having succeeded in either of the two essential objects of this work. Her failure is mainly attributable to a cause which has proved equally fatal to other recent writers on continental manners.

between the castle and the market-place, reminded

many

A man

me more of the shady groves of Oxford than of any thing which I have observed on the continent Count Thun, moreover, having visited Englud, and seen and justly appreciated the magnificent parks which form the characteristic charm our scenery, seems willing, as far as the different situations of the two countries will allow, to walk in our footsteps. It may be laid down as a rule of genHe has enclosed a rich meadow that runs by the eral application, that people not belonging bank of the Elbe, and treats it as his demesne. All to the highest class easily gain a step or this is the more praise-worthy on his part, that even in his own day the castle of Tetchen has suffered most of the calamities of war, except an actual siege. Twice during the late struggle was it seized and occupied as a post, a garrison put into the house. and cannon mounted over the ramparts; nay, the very trees in the garden, which it cost so much pains to cultivate, and such a lapse of time to nourish, were all destined to be cut down. Fortunately, however, an earnest remonstrance from the Count procured a suspension of the order, till the enemy should make his approaches; and as this never happened, the trees still survive, to afford the comfort of their shade both to their owner and his visitors. The havoc occasioned by the throwing up of batteries was not, however, to be avoided; and it is only within these three or four years that the mansion has resumed its peaceful character.

two in society when abroad. without the slightest claim to mix with the notabilities of London applies without ceremony for letters to Schlegel, Tieck, Humboldt, Lamartine, Dupin, Alfred de Vigny, or Chateaubriand; and a woman, born and bred in the middle class, will insist on being especially recommended to the élite of the Fauxbourg St. Germain. Some good-natured friend obliges them; and if the gentleman happens to have a tolerable stock of information, and the lady boasts of beauty or a name, they get There is an excellent library in the castle of find themselves in actual conversation asked to a few soirées, and occasionally Tetchen, of which the inmates make excellent use. It contains some valuable works in almost all the with individuals of European celebrityEuropean languages, with a complete set of the clas- to say nothing of mere princes and sics; and as the tastes of the owner lead him to make duchesses. The consequence is, that on continual accessions to it, the hall set apart for its re

ception, though of gigantic proportions, threatens their return home they unconsciously shortly to overflow. I must not forget, however, compare the comparatively humble circle

to which they belong with the brilliant pers, and Lord Lyndhurst for a jewelcircle they have just quitted, and vote headed cane. English society a bore, because Mr. Jenkins does not talk as well as Prince Metternich, or Mrs. Tomkins has not the grace of a Recamier.

Mrs. Trollope is too sensible a woman to be dazzled by titles, or have her judgment warped by finery; but there is the strongest internal evidence in her book, that the English world of which she speaks is a world lying far beyond the confines of Mayfair; and it would have been strange indeed if the attentions she received at Vienna had passed away like a shadow whilst she was yet upon the spot, and left her mind quite free for a comparison of her kind hosts and hostesses with the 'pampered English aristocrats.**

We have another ground of exception, of almost universal application like the first. To understand and appreciate the higher circles, or indeed any circles, you must live with them on a footing of equality. It will not do to enter them as a lion, unless you remain long enough for the impression to wear off; still less will it do to come with the avowed intention of book-making—

A chiel's amang ye takin' notes,
And, faith, he'll prent it.'

pay

Mrs. Trollope stands on a very different footing. She travels to collect national characteristics, and only quotes or describes such as volunteer to undergo the ordeal as the price of their reputation or their rank. But then, as the price of her reputation, she must expect to hear and see little or nothing but what is intended for her to hear and see. Je vous fais cadeau de cela, added Prince Metternich, after relating an anecdote which it was his obvious wish to circulate. The expression fully acquits Mrs. Trollope of any breach of confidence, but it shows that the prince was constantly on his guard, and was cramming her for his own purposes as palpably as M. von Raumer was ever crammed by the Whigs. When you come to the eyes, Mr. Carmine, let me know, that I may call up a look,' says Foote's lady of fashion to the portrait painter; and Mrs. Trollope may rest assured that her Viennese ladies of fashion adopted the same precaution. They called up a look for the occasion: they placed themselves in attitude at her approach, and took good care, moreover, that she should only paint them as Madame de Stael says she painted herself.*

We shall justify this line of remark by showing, not merely the inaccuracy of many of her statements, but their inconsistency. As in the case of Miss Martineau's work on America, her theories would be dangerous were they not providentally contradicted by her facts.

The observation applies principally to that class of worthies, mostly low Americans, who travel under a commission from a publisher to collect political, fashionable, and literary gossip, as regularly as a Birmingham bagman travels to Even Isaac Tompkins admits that the collect orders for buttons or hardware; best English society is the best. Why? to whom an invitation is worth a stated Because everybody is at his or her ease amount in dollars and cents-who -because everybody's position is fixed-their washerwoman's bill with a soirée, because there is nothing to struggle forand dine for a week on a dinner-party. because everybody is therefore free to Nay, it is hardly going too far to say that pursue the true objects of society-beevery celebrated man or woman who has cause everybody is sure of being treated the ill-luck to come across them, con- with politeness in the true acceptation of tributes something towards their necesthe term- La politesse est l'art de rendre sities or their finery. A fashionable novà chacun sans effort ce qui lui est socialeelist finds them in gilt chains and blue ment dû.' Now most certainly this soglass studs, an eminent mathematician or ciety is not composed exclusively of pergeologist in white kid-gloves and pumps, sons born to hereditary distinction-any and a female writer on population in more than the best in Paris. Yet Mrs. small-clothes; whilst a lady of the bed. Trollope, though she has caught a glimpse chamber may stand good for a cloak, of the truth, seems to claim for Viennese Irish agitator for boots to paddle through the dirt, Lord Normanby for polished leather straps to go under the boots, Lord Melbourne for a dressing-gown and slip

an

* Did you tell everything in your memoirs?' was the question. 'Je ne me suis peinte qu'en buste,' was the reply. Equally good was George the had confessed all her former amours to the Duke Fourth's remark on being told that Mrs. Clarke

of York- What candour exclaimed the inform. ant—‹ What a memory!' rejoined the Prince.

society a monopoly of ease and independ- I have never, in any instance, heard a word either of

ence on the ground of its more complete exclusiveness. There are no parliamentary celebrities, no millionaires, no lite rary lions, and very rarely a lioness, to be found in it; and the consequences are plain :

"If with us there is a stronger and more animated collision of intellect, at Vienna there is less risk of meeting within the arena of good society those whose more fitting place is without it. An habitué in the set which constitutes good company here, may venture to enter into conversation with his neighbour, even though a stranger, without any awkward doubts and fears as to the prudence and propriety of at

tempting the adventure; a sort of happy confidence, the want of which may probably be the origin of that species of sauvagerie with which we are often reproached.....

'Should some uninitiated visitor in a London or

of the "haute colée" concerning the gay-plumaged admiration or contempt spoken by any individual birds that flutter beneath them...... Of the poorer classes, on the contrary, the highest speak with the greatest interest, and appear to feel both pride and amusements, their peculiar merits, and all the displeasure in knowing well their condition, their tinctive traits of national character which distinguish them. Neither in England nor in France, and much less in America, have I ever heard or seen so much affectionate interest expressed for the comforts and enjoyments of the lower orders as I have witnessed here.—Trollope, vol. ii., pp. 213, 214.

A Whig lady of the highest rank, who resided a good deal in the country, was warmly commended for her affability to the farmers' wives and daughters in the neighbourhood. 'Pray,' said a bystander, 'does she behave in the same manner to

Paris salon, on the contrary, venture upon familiar the wives and daughters of the clergyconversation with any one, or every one he happened men and the squires?' Her admirer was to meet there, without waiting for the ceremony of obliged to answer that she did not. Can introduction, his chance of a happy result would em- Mrs. Trollope, with her quickness of perbrace a variation within every degree from water

boil to spirit-freeze. He might find himself in com- ception, avoid penetrating to the true momunion with the first poet in existence, or the first tives of the difference? Can she help boxer; might be exchanging civilities with a mighty seeing that the studied silence of her silly peer of the realm, or with that peer's elegant, Austrian friends was far more eloquent eloquent, and much more illustrious banker. He might be listening to the powerful language of a than words? methodist parson, a profound philosopher, or a tragic actor; and would be equally likely to have made his experiment on the noble of twenty descents, or the parvenu of yesterday-on the most estimable man in Europe, or on the greatest rogue.'-Trollope, vol. ii. pp. 243, 244.

But perhaps this city aristocracy are disqualified by habits of thought and manners for such society.

Having told you, then, how the separation between the noble and the banking aristocracies shows itself in the one set, I must with equal freedom, and with equal chance of blundering from not allowing sufficiently perhaps for exceptions, communicate my observations on the other. I must preface these, however, by assuring you, that though my acquaint

ance has not been greatly extended among the bankers of Vienna, I have met among the few I have known some very charming women; several of these are ac

In the salon of a Lafitte or a Mrs. Leo Hunter there may be mixtures of the sort -not in that society, either of London or Paris, which there is any pretence for comparing to the upper circles of Vienna. But let this pass: the question is, what effect is produced on the Viennese nobi-complished in the highest sense of the word, full of lity by their purism? and we think the very least to be expected is, that they will be more free, more natural, and less finically nice about their dignity: the great advantage of acknowledged rank or a well-defined position being, that you can afford to say anything or be seen in public with anybody. We shall see

'I have told you that the noble and bousière aristocracies are very distinctly divided; and I must now describe to you, as well as I can, the effect of this strict division. On the higher class I should say that this effect (at least the outward and visible signs of it) was absolutely nothing. They never allude to the second class in any way whatever. There are no disdainful observations, no quizzing of plebeian magnificence, no hints concerning attempts to "come so near the heel of the courtier as to gall his kibe." And yet this magnificence, and this close following, meet their noble eyes at every turn, in the equipages that fill the streets, in the rich dresses that parade the ramparts and dash along the Prater, or in the theatres, where the too scanty supply of boxes appears to be pretty fairly divided between the two sets. But though I have listened to much unreserved talk on most subjects, and have even watched to catch observations on this,

that might do honour to any circle in the world. But, talent, thoroughly well instructed, and with manners with all this, they cannot, generally speaking, look upwards with the same magnanimous indifference with which those above them look down. There is evidently a feeling at the heart that is somewhat akin to resentment at the exclusiveness of the circle above them; and in many individuals I have seen it break out in a manner so visible, as very materially to injure that tone of good society to which, in most other respects, they have such fair pretensions.

In this disunion there are two other remarkable features: the first is, that many gentlemen decidedly belonging to the higher class are to be met at the dinners, balls, and concerts of the lower; and the second, that if you chance to meet these same gentlemen afterwards, they rarely or never allude to these plebeian rencontres, but seem to prefer any other subject whatever. I am told also-but of this I speak not as having witnessed it-that should a lady of this class, who has given a ball over night, at which jewels sparkled and every elegance abounded

should such a lady meet the following morning on the ramparts a noble gentleman who had shared in the festivity, having a lady of his own class beside him, he will infallibly be seized with a defect of vision, or a visionary defect, and no light that can shine from heaven upon her velvet pelisse and waving plumes will be strong enough to enable him to recognise