absurd sectarian prejudice all round, why you or anybody else might have to write afresh everything that you have written. I showed the passage and your alterations to a Roman Catholic guest, who said, 'Leave it as it is.' (But as he is the strangest of Papists, ever declaiming against the Pope and idolatry, and setting up the Lord Protector Oliver-of whom he says that a brother magistrate in Lincolnshire had never heard -you may not count his opinion as of much weight.)

I dare say that I have somewhere in my writings said something which may not be acceptable to the Particular Baptists or to the Church of Abyssinia. But I shan't alter it, unless it can be shown that I have misrepresented those denominations.

The English clergy certainly did marry very freely. Peter of Blois, on being made Dean of Wolverhampton, was much shocked at finding that the canons were mostly married, and that they commonly married the daughters of other canons. I count this as important, as it seems to show that the marriages were real marriages, and that at least among canons at Wolverhampton-they were not thought disreputable. A priest would hardly give his own daughter to a connexion which was thought shameful. And you have read enough to know that when saints use bad language on these matters, it really means nothing more than marriage on the part of the less holy.

At the same time I do not doubt that the wife of a parish priest, or even the wife of Bishop Herfast of Thetford, was a different kind of body from Mrs. Drummond or Lady Arthur Hervey. But so is the wife of a Greek πаñâs, whose position is something more than lawful, even compulsory.

Doubtless there was a strong feeling against clerical marriage, and that largely among the best men. But the different views of St. Paul and Gregory VII, and the practice of the Eastern Church surely justify what you say.

To J. BRYCE, Esq.

Somerleaze, August 29, 1879.


I don't know in what part of the world you may be. I learn from Jupiter' that Tozer has departed unto Kappadokia, and has there climbed a mountain whence he could almost touch the moon. I dare say you are after some prank of the same kind

in Phrygia or Pamphylia, Pontos or Asia-how those lands
must all have reformed under British protection!
Both you
and Tozer are worth too much for you to (August 31) go
jeoparding yourselves in such places. I finally decided in 1877
that Akrokorinthos was quite enough for a moderate man.
One's hope the other way is that you may have been kept
within the four seas to talk to them of the Tower Hamlets1.

I had a pleasant and profitable run in Normandy and Maine, where we took many castles. I had with me J. T. Fowler from Durham, who had never been beyond sea before, and who was therefore much delighted, and James Parker, with his patient and dutiful son Charlie, who came loaded with many burthens for making of photographs. We did not get to Gerberoi, or surely, enduring as the lad was, he would have rebelled Robertlike, and smitten his father, if not with a spear yet with a staff2. No, we did not get to Gerberoi, or anywhere on that side, for gout came upon me at Rouen, and my feet were vexed in the city of Rolf. So I gat me home again with all speed, leaving all on the right bank of Seine undone. The said gout was ludicrously slight, and went away in a very few days; but I could not have gone on castle-stalking. Otherwise I was wonderfully better for my frisk out there; that is, I was really able to frisk in a way which I can't here. But I went to Taunton and found that I had got my voice again, and so I expounded that 'her on Sumorsaetan' we be in a real gá-your High-Dutch gáu (of which you and Waitz and nobody else know the verfassung), while on Huntunscire, where they were last year-the northern one on Myrcnarice-they were in a scír, a department or thing sheared off. . . . Is there any chance of your getting here?

Mr. Bryce was a candidate for the representation of the Tower Hamlets in Parliament.

2 Robert, the eldest son of William the Conqueror, quarrelled with his father in 1080, and appealed for help to Philip, king of the French, who allowed him to occupy the strong Castle of Gerberoi. William besieged the Castle, but was repulsed, and in a skirmish outside the walls Robert wounded his father in the hand with a spear. Norman Conquest, iv. 646-48.

3 This address on The Shire and the Gá,' delivered at Taunton, August 7, 1879, to the Archaeological Institute, has been reprinted in


It seems so easy to me that you should, and seemingly so hard to you, among dining, and dancing, and lecturing, and Alp-climbing, and Tower-Hamleting. I never see you to

speak to.

I want you to tell me about many things, specially of one about which I have a great curiosity. What does all this mean about whether life is worth living, and the melancholy of educated Englishmen, and being jaded and in a hurry and what not? You, who are the darling of Society, must surely know. To me, it gives me no idea except that people must have upset their heads, hearts, and bellies by mewing themselves up in streets and squares instead of sitting-I was going to say under one's own elm and cedar, only this year one can't do it1. If I ever want to stir, as I often do now-though I did June 1878, June 1879 'tis to get quite away to Greece, Sicily, Dalmatiathere is somehow a magic about all those parts. Normandy and Maine are something quite different-very pleasant and interesting business, but, & Zeû kaì deoí, not like moonlight among the isles of Hadria or the sun Bariλevwv-do you know what that is?-behind Kronin. The unlucky thing is that I have so crippled myself by cutting Saturday Review and P. M. G. that I can't do that kind of thing or hardly anything else. I wish some good old Danielis would leave me her estate-if in Peloponnesus it might not be so valuable as it was then. Really, for that old girl to leave 3000 slavesSlaves, I suspect, as well as slaves-and for Philosopher Leo to plant them bodily as a colony is, in its way, one of the grandest notions I know of 2.

English Towns and Districts, p. 103.
Conquest, i. pp. 48, 570, ed. 3.

See also on this subject Norman

1 The summer of 1879 was very wet.

2 The Emperor Basil I, A.D. 867-886, when a young man in a humble condition of life, was patronised by a rich old lady named Danielis. After he became Emperor she lavished costly presents on him, and after his death made his successor, Leo VI (the philosopher), her sole heir. He enfranchised 3,000 of the slaves whom she had bequeathed to him, and settled them in Apulia. See Finlay's History of Greece (ed. by Tozer), ii. 230, 253-255.


November 3, 1879.

I have been much struck with those churches of mixed style, Renaissance with Gothic traces about them-of which there are so many in France, and so few in England. The great example is St. Eustace at Paris, where we were yesterday, which produces the perfect effect of a tip-top Gothic minster, with not a scrap of Gothic detail except some poor tracery. At Pontoise we saw some of quite another type, fat columns with composite capitals, which one would have been delighted with if one had found them in Italy of any date from the fourth century to the twelfth. Some come very near to my notion of Parker, C.B., Dickinson, and others acting as volutes.


London, November 13, 1879.

We have just come back, at least we came back yesterday, and found your letter among others. It had not crossed the sea. I have been skipping about by the space of a fortnight up and down castle mounds and the like, till I have got so much better that Dr. Mackenzie says that I must not spend the winter at Somerleaze lest I should get worse again. wants chiefly to send me to the land of Ham or, failing that, to Cannes or thereabouts. For neither of these do I feel any call; I don't want to be sent anywhither, but I should not so much repine if Greece, Sicily, or some parts of Italy would do. But all is quite unfixed, except that I am to be at Liverpool next Wednesday. Let me rather tell you what I have been doing. First, I have stayed longer in Paris than I ever did before, viz. six nights, as also four at Gisors, one at Neufchâtel-en-Bray, and three at Dieppe. I believe we should really have done better to have crossed to Cherbourg and to have made Versailles our head-quarters instead of Paris, but I only found this out by the journeys which we took from Paris. Of these the chief were to Meulan-cum-Poissy, and to Montfort l'Amaury. I can't say without book whether the great Simon was born there; but it was the head-quarters of all Simons and Almarics, truly a strong mount, but only a mount, not

girded of a deep ditch, Norman fashion. Of the church there is only one bit that Simon could have seen; they have kept one side of the mid-tower. Most of it is late, rich with stained glass, but with figures, not of Simon and Eleanor, but of Catherine of Medicis, with two 'filles d'honneur,' and Henry III, their Henry III, with two pages. I think we stayed longer in Paris, because we fell in with General Read. They seem to have doomed the Tuileries proper, and are finishing the two ends. Nobody wants so big a house now-that is one good job. They have done something to Nôtre Dame, pulling down houses about her and one thing and another, till she looks like a model set on the ground rather than a real church. From Paris we made our way to Dieppe by the other line- I mean not by Rouen, but by Pontoise, Gisors, Gournay, and Neufchâtel -Neufchâtel of the cheeses, Neufchâtel in Bray, Neufchâtel that was Drincourt-in all these ways you may distinguish it from Welschneuenburg on its lake. Gisors and Dieppe we made chief centres and saw divers places from them, ending with Longueville and what they call Caesar's camp-you who saw me puffing and coughing and sitting down on a log would have been amazed to see me tripping along and running up this and that. I was less able to run about the steamer by which we crossed from Dieppe yesterday morning, for the sea wrought and the boat reeled to and fro, so that he who strove to walk on her deck staggered as a drunken man. I began to think that I had been hard on Bishop Hildebert for his horror at having to come to England1. But haply he did more than stagger, poor dear. I did nothing worse; howbeit my soul abhorred all manner of meat till I was landed at Newhaven and had gotten me a mess of pottage.

1 Hildebert, Bishop of Le Mans, was accused of having encouraged a revolt against William Rufus, and of having permitted two towers of the Cathedral to be used as fortresses by the rebels. After the siege and capture of Le Mans by William, the Bishop was offered the alternative of pulling down the obnoxious towers or of accompanying the King to England. He chose the latter, although he greatly dreaded the perils of the sea. See Reign of William Rufus, ii. 297.

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