128

SMYRNA-BARBAROUS MURDER OF A GREEK.

Smyrna. When the Cambrian was last here,› it might not have been so safe. An officer of the ship, who was in her at the time, having occasion to go on shore, observed a Turk assault a Greek, and, at a single blow, strike, off his head, which he seized, and bore away with him the carcase was left in the street. The Levite and Mahommedan saw and

66

passed by," with indifference," on the other side." For this act of barbarity, there was no investigation, and no punishment. The unruly passions of a Turkish mob were aroused; and no sense, either of duty or of decency, could suspend the malevolent and wanton expression.

We had, this morning, an alarm respecting the plague. Three or four infected persons, it was said, had arrived at Smyrna a short time previously; and our captain was justly apprehensive of the consequences. Happily, however, the report, so far as it regarded the period of their being brought here, was false. It occurred several months before, and every customary precaution had been taken with effect. The disorder never spread further.

The streets of Smyrna are scarcely three yards in breadth; and of this the greater part is taken

SMYRNA TURKISH WOMEN.

129

up by a puddle, which finds a channel through the whole. Strings of camels take their way through them, splashing and crushing the passenger to his heart's content. And should it be his fortune, as it is more than probable, to meet a Turk mounted upon the sprightly little coursers of the country, he may esteem himself marvellously happy, should he escape without being blinded by the mud that he fails not to splash about him. But these are little Asiatic luxuries, for which an inquisitive traveller cannot be too thankful! In my first wanderings, the most marked circumstance was the corpse-like appearance of the Turkish women, muffled up in white cotton shawls, from top to toe, with a piece of thin black crape, like the aventagle of a helmet, enveloping the face; they seem to have just started from the sepulchre, and to wander, like Goules, in search of prey. Some of these masks have holes cut for the eyes in the crape, which, in that part, is covered with gauze, so as to permit their seeing with more distinctness, but yet entirely to exclude all prospect from without. In this manner they go, three or four in company, to the bazars.

130

FINE VIEW OF THE COUNTRY ROUND SMYRNA.

Above the city, to the right, is the ancient Mount Pagus, crowned by a castle once of immense extent, but now completely buried in ruins. The colossal head of the Amazon Smyrna is fixed in the wall at the North gate, divested both of nose and lips. Chandler, Tournefort, and other writers, have given long and accurate accounts of the antiquities of this place and neighbourhood. To them, therefore, I refer my readers, contenting myself with remarking only whatever is novel, or more than commonly striking. Difference of situation or circumstance may, perhaps, put some things in another and happier light; but to transcribe long and dry details of antiquity from one or all the writers who have indulged in them, would, indeed, augment the body of matter, but be, I apprehend, neither amusing nor instructive. From the walls of the castle we have a splendid panoramic view of the country around Smyrna, ornamented with olive-trees and orange groves. To the left, is the gulf, with English, French, Austrian, and Dutch ships of war, riding at anchor. In front, the town with its Moschs and Minarets, its "cities of the dead," indicated by stately groves of

SMYRNA-TURKISH BURIAL-PLACES.

131

cypress-trees, lifting themselves aloft in gloomy majesty the river Meles winding gracefully past various picturesque Turkish residences; and higher up, the rough stony road to Bournavat and Boujah, over which a long string of camels, with bells round their necks that chime harmoniously in the distance, preserve their slow uniform pace. Mountains, slightly covered with verdure, surround and terminate the scene.

The burial-places are numerous and remarkable. Wherever a dead body is found, there it is interred; and as Turkish superstition will not permit a second burial to take place where there has been one before, the country is covered with these tokens of mortality. Cypresses are invariably planted near them; and the passenger may distinguish the rank of the deceased by the stone turban which is placed on the head of the monument. These are frequently painted and gilded; and but for the solemn gloom of the tree which shadows them, would have an unseemly and garish appearance. Texts of the Koran are inscribed upon each. In their turbans, the Turks, as well as the Greek inhabitants of Smyrna, espe

132

SMYRNA-UNPLEASANT ADVENTURE.

cially the women, frequently place anemones and other gay flowers. The effect is very pleasing; and might seem to point out a taste more refined, and a feeling more delicate, than usually accompanies either one or the other. There is a cotton print manufacture at Smyrna of great extent. The cottons come from England, and when printed, are exported to Russia, France, and other countries. The process is probably similar to our own.

I had an adventure to-day which might have terminated unhappily. Walking leisurely along one of the streets appropriated to the Frank residents, and hence called Frank-street, I passed two Turks, armed as they all are with pistols and ataghan. I observed that one if not both of them was drunk; but I paid little further attention to them. However, I had not proceeded far, before I saw half a dozen Greek boys running rapidly before me, turning their heads back with every mark of consternation. This action naturally induced me to turn mine, when, to my great annoyance, I perceived one of the drunken Turks aforesaid, with his cocked pistol presented at my back. I had scarcely determined what to do, when his companion