Sidebilder
PDF
ePub

138 CEREMONIEs of the Grieks on chrisTMAS-DAY.

and perhaps are equaly appropriate)—are also hastening to total annihilation; and it will soon be said of then," etiam periere ruina.”

Thursday, 6th Jan.-This being Christmasday with the Geek Catholics, their churches are adorned in che gayest manner. I entered one, in which sort of raree-show had been set up, illumed with a multitude of candles: the subject of itwas the birth of Christ, who was represented, in the back ground, by a little waxen figure wrapped up in embroidery, and reclining upon an embroidered cushion, which rested upon another of pink satin: this was supposed to be the manger where he was born. Behind the image two paper bulls' heads looked unutterable things. On the right was the Virgin Mary, and on the left one of the Eastern Magi. Paper clouds, in which the paper heads of numberless cherubs appeared, enveloped the whole; while from a paste-board cottage stalked a wooden monk, with dogs, and sheep, and camels, goats, lions, and lambs; here walked a maiden upon a stratum of sods and dried earth, and there a shepherd, flourishing aloft his pastoral staff. The construction of these august figures was chiefly Dutch: they were

[blocks in formation]

intermixed with china images and miserable daubs on paper. In the centre, a real fountain in miniature squirted forth water to the ineffable delight of crowds of "prostrate worshippers."

Friday, 7th Jan.-Wandering through one part of the bazar, I was struck with the cries of the venders of merchandize. Amongst other things a fine diamond ring and a Turkey carpet were exposed for sale. These, and especially the latter, reminded me of the magical carpet of Hossein, in the Arabian Tales, where the mode of sale is exactly similar.

Monday, 10th Jan.-Introduced this morning to the Rev. Fr. V. Arundell, chaplain to the factory here. A Greek lady, whom I met at his house, pronounced the ring which I formerly mentioned to have been found at Athens an antique; how far she was a judge is not clear-is rather doubtful! Mr. Arundell shewed me a number of queries sent by the Bible Society to their agent here, and purporting to relate to an object which the Society are said to have in view-the conversion of the Jews in Smyrna-amongst other pertinent questions,

are,

140 QUESTIONS SENT BY THE BIBLE SOCIETY.

"The nature of the water, and how to be corrected?

"The unhealthy winds, and how to be avoided?

"What are the usual condiments used in diet?

[ocr errors]

"Is it best to take out bills or cash from Malta?

"The best hours for sleep, food, exercise and study?

"What is the best season for a stranger to arrive in the country?"

It

With others of a similar character, which have just as much to do with the "conversion of the Jews" as with the man in the moon. strikes me very forcibly that some "ready writer," intending to get up a volume of travels, or peradventure, twain, has adopted this mode of acquiring information. It would cost the agent of the Society months of hard labour and minute investigation to reply accurately to many of the questions.

As soon as we arrived we received invitations to the balls of the Casino, which take place once a week, and continue to the end of the Carnival, and "to which," (Mr. Hobhouse

SMYRNA-COSTUME OF THE GRECIAN WOMEN. 141

observes)" all the respectable Greeks and ladies of their families are invited." But I am informed that the ladies are rather Smyrniotes than Greeks; that is, born in Smyrna, but of Frank extraction. They adopt indeed the Greek dress, and unbecoming enough it is, except the small turban, which is worn sideways upon the head, and has a tasteful air; but the little jackets, Grecian bend, and STAYSLESS form can never be tolerated by Europeans, properly so called; and the postures into which they throw themselves, especially after being heated with dancing, in any but a native must be pronounced positively indecent and disgusting. In corpulent matrons this feeling is, of course, still stronger; and it is surprizing, if they are not altogether or in part of Greek origin, how this dress could ever have been adopted.

Several of the officers dined to-day with the English consul-here was the first tendour that I had seen. This is a square table covered with thick carpet; beneath, on a sort of shelf lined with tin, is a chafing-dish containing hot charcoal, and on this shelf people put their feet during cold weather, enveloping their knees in the carpet.

CHAPTER V.

TUESDAY, 11th Jan.-Captain Hamilton presented his officers to Hassan Capitan Pacha of Smyrna. These sort of interviews have not been so often, or so accurately described as to render recapitulation tedious; I shall therefore detail, with some degree of minuteness, what has just taken place. We left the ship in five boats, the captain in the first yawl, with the union jack flying at her head, the rest of the boats following with pendants; the Dragoman and the English consul, with his janizaries were in a sixth.

We entered a dark and dirty court-yard, up an ascent equally villainous. Musquets and carbines were reclining against a wall, and a number of uncouth retainers were smoaking near them. Crossing a sort of hall, at the top of the stair-case, where lay a multitude of slippers, and where certain fierce-looking mus

« ForrigeFortsett »