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first selected not agreeing with our convenience, we fixed on the day after. The consequence of which was, that the owner of our donkies refused to permit us to employ them, or rather promised in order to deceive us. The man was a Greek, and our worthy host would fain have had me believe, that it was a specimen of that obstinacy and pride which he said was characteristic of the nation. The worst of it was, that the fellows who let asses out to hire are so leagued together, that by offending one, you offend the whole; at least our efforts to obtain more than two beasts for our luggage, were quite ineffectual. Notwithstanding, I am resolved to suffer nothing but a series of irresistible facts, of facts fairly and impartially chosen, to induce me to form an unfavourable opinion of those who have so much to contend with. They fight for freedom; they fight with years of slavery upon their backs, with all the necessary vices of slavery, and with some arising immediately from intercourse with their enslavers ;—let them have fair play!

The country around Sedecui is diversified with hill and dale, abounding in underwood, but with few trees of any growth. The Velania

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oak, the myrtle, &c. &c. are common to all these parts. The olive seems to flourish most; -the pine less. Game is not very plentiful at present. The cold weather having prevailed for several days, it was expected that woodcocks would have been numerous. This was not the case; and hares and partridges were very scarce. A large hyæna was killed a short time since, near Sedecui; but such an event is of extraordinary occurrence. A report goes abroad, that tigers, and even bears, have been seen here I am a little incredulous.

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At the breaking out of the Greek Revolution, Sedecui suffered severely by the march of the Turkish troops to Scala Nova, for the purpose of attacking Samos. A Turkish officer and his follower, during the night that a detachment was quartered here, pursued a young Greek girl along the streets. She took refuge in the house of a countrywoman, and closed the door in sufficient time to escape by another entrance. The Turk at last got admission; and finding that the victim had eluded his brutal grasp, prepared to wreak his vengeance upon her helpless protector. He raised his arm to strike her to the heart; but, strange to

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say, the sabre snapt asunder at the hilt, while it was lifted in the air. He then directed a

pistol at her, but here again he was foiled-it missed fire! This being observed by his comrade, he forced him away, remarking, happily for the woman, "that her hour was not yet come." Resolved, however, not to be wholly defeated, he seized upon a fine infant, which then lay sleeping in its cradle beside her, and rushed out of the house. In vain the halffrantic mother called upon the ruffian to restore her offspring; in vain she supplicated him to have compassion upon her agony: she obtained nothing but savage imprecations and menaces, and such was the disorderly state of the Turkish army, that the Capitan Pacha himself had no power to compel a surrender. In fact, the man had taken a liking to the child, and persisted in retaining him. This, however, was ultimately prevented by direction of the commander. They removed the boy while the ravisher slept; and the effects of his resentment were provided against, by marching immediately to their next destination, where the Greeks were beyond his reach. The singularly providential escape of the woman is attested

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by the most respectable authorities, and is universally credited.

I was particularly struck at Sedecui with the classical contour of a Greek servant of our host. A white shawl was bound across her head, and fastened under the chin. The effect of this costume, though not common with her countrywomen, was augmented by a long antique lamp, which she carried on the occasion I speak of, made at Venice, but admirably adapted to carry back the imagination to remoter periods, and more heroic times.

Near Sedecui is a tumulus, which has not yet been explored; the French call it the tomb of Andræmon; and they might as well call it the tomb of Jack the Giant Queller! Mr. Arundell, whose antiquarian research equals the friendliness of his manners, proposes, in quieter times, to investigate the tumulus in question, as well as an opposite mound about a mile distant. It gives me pleasure also to mention, that he has it in contemplation to communicate to the public the result of certain well-conducted enquiries relative to the ancient Christian churches of Asia. He has recovered several curious and valuable monuments, and from the ardour of

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his pursuit, united as it is with great discretion and judgment, I have no doubt but his object will be fully attained.

We returned to Smyrna by Bougiah, otherwise called "the English village," from the number of its English inhabitants: it is about three miles from the city. A curious circumstance happened here a short time since; the lower floor of a large house has been converted into a chapel a man, carrying a bowl of milk, stood accidentally beneath the door-way of the building, and a serpent, four or five feet long, allured by the smell of the milk, of which they are extremely fond, darted from the upper part of the door, and flung himself, like a necklace, around the throat of the poor fellow. The creature's head was dipped into the bowl; and one may well imagine the terror of his entertainer, and the little satisfaction which he would receive from the "orient carcanet" with which he was decorated. Whether the serpent was of a harmless description, which is most probable, or whether the man contrived, by a vigorous effort, to free himself from the uncourteous intruder, I did not hear-certain it is that he escaped without injury. I would add

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