SMYRNA-SALUTATION OF THE PACHA OF SCIO. 153

to this account that many of the tales of the "GESTA ROMANORUM *" and of other books of that class, are founded upon the propensity of serpents for milk; and this very circumstance, perhaps, is no small proof of their Eastern origin.

Friday, 14th Jan.-We returned to-day, and found that Suleiman Aga and his suite had been paying a visit to the Cambrian. Amongst the rest, the late Pacha of Scio, who to his other admirable qualities adds that of a confirmed drunkard, was present. He honoured Captain Hamilton with a-kiss on each cheek. Such a mark of civility was a thing" devoutly to be wished," and, I doubt not, duly appreciated by our excellent captain! Indeed I cannot help shrewdly suspecting that the second salute was effected by stratagem; and that when he had been smacked upon one side "he turned to him the other also!"

Sunday, 16th Jan.-After morning service, Captain Hamilton, Mr. Tennant, the Hon. Mr. Strangways, &c. fifteen of the officers of the

* See Tale LXI. Vol. II. of the Translated Gesta amongst others.

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SMYRNA VISIT TO SULEIMAN AGA.

Cambrian, and nine or ten from the Seringapatam, with their commander, went, according to appointment, to dine with Suleiman Aga, at his country-house. This was considered so rare an instance of attention as to cause a good deal of commotion in Smyrna, a like circumstance never having been heard of even by the oldest Frank inhabitants. But Captain Hamilton is so much and so justly esteemed; he has adopted, since his first arrival in the Mediterranean, a policy so well conceived and judiciously supported, that there is little to surprize if we find the Turks themselves discarding their prejudices, and admitting even "Christian dogs" to the familiarity of their houses and a most singular gratification we received. On landing at the consul's we found horses awaiting our arrival; many of them were superbly caparisoned, and their high-peaked saddles and gorgeous trappings were strongly contrasted with the costume of the English riders. They were fine little animals, and their spirit was kept in continual heat by the awkward use of the shovel-stirrup, a huge instrument sharpened at each end, and employed as a spur. With this some of our cavalcade unwittingly gored the

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poor animals till the blood ran profusely down its elevated edges.

When the bustle of mounting was over we set forward to the Aga's residence, in as much order as the restlessness of the animals we bestrode would admit. It was diverting to observe the efforts made by some of the officers to quiet their steeds, in order to keep their persons in equilibrio as we proceeded up the narrow and dirty streets of Smyrna. The puddle flew about us most mischievously, and not the less that we were regarded by hundreds of faces" from doors and windows, yea, from chimney tops." The Greek ladies have not more curiosity, perhaps, than the rest of their sex, but their turbaned heads, enwreathing dark hair adorned with natural flowers of the brightest colours, and eyes and cheeks smiling like the sun of their own glorious land, looked out with all the inquisitiveness of excited wonder. By the side of each horse a Turk ran as a guard, and an armed janizary on horseback, with about a dozen on foot, preceded the cavalcade.

The Aga's dwelling being but a short distance from the town we were soon there, pass

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SULEIMAN AGA-DESCRIPTION OF HIS HALL.

ing in the way the river Meles, over which a bridge, called the Caravan Bridge, has been thrown, adjacent to a fine grove of cypress. A magnificent band welcomed our arrival! It was composed of three fiddles, a dulcimer, a triangle, and an oaten pipe;-I need not say what the music was like! Dismounting in the area of the building we ascended by a flight of steps, and were ushered into a long hall, of which a square basin of water formed the centre; along its sides, pillars, imitative of marble, supported a gilded roof. To the left, where the Aga and his retinue waited to receive us, the floor was raised and boarded, and was partly inclosed by a marble balustrade: a low sofa (or divan,) covered with printed cotton, ran on each side, that is to say, at the end and on two adjoining sides; the fourth was open, looking toward the basin, and a similar place in the opposite portion of the building. A large glass chandelier was suspended at each end; and the ceiling, as well as the wainscot, was painted in tolerably good style. On each side of the first-mentioned part was a little chamber, secured by a door, and in one of these, to the right of the entrance, the Aga was

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fitting up an English fire-place of well-executed marble. All the rooms were painted.

The further end of the building (which, as I have already hinted, was open, affording an uninterrupted prospect of its whole length, with the basin in the midst) was raised and boarded, like the other; but before reaching it, a marble fountain, with a number of jets d'eau, were to be observed. To the left of this a door opened upon a small terrace or balcony, which presented a beautiful view of the adjoining country, its olive-groves and mountains swelling magnificently beyond.

After being presented and seated we were supplied with pipes and cold punch, and having inhaled a few whiffs, the Aga proposed that we should walk through his house and gardens. This, of course, was gladly acquiesced in, and we accordingly set forth. The house I have already described. We were presently conducted through a green trelliced walk covered with branches of the vine, at the termination of which were vapour-baths and the harem. In the former we saw little remarkable; they were small but conveniently enough contrived; a flat stone was inserted in the boarded floor,