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158 SULEIMAN AGA-DESCRIPTION OF HIS HAREM.

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on which the body reclines while the vapour is in circulation. From hence-which I take to be of itself an instance of special favour—we were brought to the HAREM. The women, is scarcely necessary to remark, had been removed, but I apprehend that few Turks are tempted, under any circumstance, to make exhibition even of their empty cages. However this may be, we were gratified by an inspection of places guarded with the most scrupulous vigilance, and made the vehicle of the most monstrous system that ever disgraced civilized humanity! The ground part of the building was at this time unappropriated, indeed was unfinished, but ascending a flight of steps, screened by a narrow lattice, we came into the women's apartments. In this quarter they remain during the heats of the morning, but as the evening advances they retire to the upper chambers, where they also sleep. Each story consists of three rooms, or rather two rooms and a little square place partitioned from the corridor, but open to it. The partition itself is not more than three feet high. The sleeping apartments are boarded, leaving a lower space at the entrance for the purpose of discarding dirty slippers

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before the carpet is approached. The same quarter of the room is also allotted to a variety of wardrobes, and little closets for depositing trinkets and other articles of female attire. They occupy the whole breadth of the chamber. Opposite, and along the adjacent sides are the beds, above which numerous glass windows, with moveable lattices fitted to them, admit the air

while they prevent the exposure of their persons. The prospect from hence is beautiful; and provided that they who are thus immured can survey the wide and magnificent expanse of heaven above, can see the flowers freely blooming beneath them, and the feathered creation fluttering in liberty and joy around them, without a sigh, they may perhaps taste enjoyment even here!

From the harem we proceeded to the garden adjoining. This, (as well as the buildings,) has not been long constructed; it was therefore, in its present state, no very attractive object, consisting entirely of young trees and vegetables in abundance. We passed a well of curious though simple form; a large wheel (to which a multitude of small leather buckets were attached) was fixed in it; as the wheel

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CIVILITY OF SULEIMAN AGA.

revolved part of the buckets arose filled with water whilst the remainder were filling below. Each, as it arrived at the summit of the well, emptied its contents into a reservoir which was connected with small aqueducts built on either side of the beds in the garden. A short distance from hence the Aga's house and harem formed very picturesque objects. The dresses of the British navy intermingling with the shewy costume of Turks, Greeks and Armenians, all illumined too by the splendour of an Eastern sun, made a novel and interesting appearance.

The stables of the Aga were next inspected ;

they contained probably upwards of an hundred horses of burden, besides numbers destined only for the saddle. This building forms one wall of the area before his house, to which we now returned. Immediately small round tables were brought, upon which the attendants placed salvers of fruits, anchovies, and other piquant dishes, which were but the prelude to the coming entertainment. I observed the Aga, as the utmost mark of civility that he could shew, strike his tooth-pick into part of a pear already separated from the rind, and pre

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sent it with much politesse to his nearest guests. What was the flavour of this pear I never asked, nor do I pretend to guess, but "by the foot of Pharaoh!" as Captain Bobadil says, (peradventure Pharaoh's tooth here were the more appropriate attestation!) I felt not, nor feel the least envy at their happiness! A worthy personage who partook of it solemnly ́assured me that the Aga used this aforesaid tooth-pick in the common way, not only afterward, but before the presentation. Far be it from me to impugn the veracity of this worthy personage, but as no one beside witnessed the exhibition*, (and I took considerable pains to ascertain so important a fact) it rests entirely with my readers to credit it or not. The tables, four in number, were placed near the divan; but as a few only could with convenience sit at them from thence, awkwardly constructed chairs were added. A hundred attendants at least bustled about, bringing cold punch in

*This appears to have been a mistake, for Mr. Tennant has since assured me that he particularly noticed it; I have not, therefore, the smallest doubt upon the subject; nor by those who have the happiness of knowing Mr. T. will it be questioned for a moment.

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DESCRIPTION OF HASSAN PACHA,

small china cups and glasses with reasonable celerity. A quarter of an hour afterwards the tables were removed, and others brought. In this instance their disposition varied: one was fixed up at the end where the Aga sat, and two other in the opposite and more remote compartment; at each of these a "familiar friend" of our host did the honours of the table. At the table where I happened to be was the aforesaid Hassan or Vehib, (for it seems he has two appellations) ci-devant Pacha of Scio! whose fawning sycophantish look corresponded well with the unfavourable impressions which we had long ago received. Red flabby cheeks surmounted by small eyes that twinkled most Bacchanalianly, and garnished with a nose as crooked as his own soul*, is the impartial, al

*The following anecdote is from Pouqueville's "Histoire de la Régénération de la Grèce," a work which, inflated and grossly incorrect as it often is, presents some striking and veritable features of the Greek Revolution.

"Cependant rien ne bougeait encore; et tandis que les Turcs préparaient leurs armes pour une expédition qui n'était plus un mystère, un Grec, réfugié dans le consulat de France, informé que son frère n'avait pas été compris dans l'execution du matin, monte à la citadelle. Il savait qu'on devait pendre le lendemain ce qui restait encoré

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