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DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPANY.

When the meal was concluded, we again adjourned to the divan; and fresh pipes, with excellent coffee, were presented to us. Moving toward the higher, that is the Aga's quarter of the mansion, we were furnished with pipes anew, and the band then made its appearance. It consisted of two violins, a sort of dulcimer, and a reed pipe, which last was played on by a Dervish. A second, who, by his dress and familiarity with the Aga, appeared of a superior rank, sat next, and assisted in the execution of a song, the worst, perhaps, that ever saluted mortal ears. Yet the whole presented a most curious scene. On the elevated and boarded part noticed before, occupying the whole divan, sat the officers of the Cambrian and Seringapatam; the Aga in one corner, with pipes three yards long, projecting from the jaw, and resting on the brass plate in the middle of the floor, while wreaths of thick smoke ascended to the roof. In front of this elevation sat the band, with the two Dervishes in their light-coloured sugar-loaf hats; and at their backs stood a huge crowd of turbaned attendants, filling up the whole space beyond, and looking with mute attention, and it may be,

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with internal ridicule, upon what was going forward. Would that I were a painter; or, would that I could write a painting!

After another pipe and glass of Champaigne, we departed in the same manner that we had arrived.

The Aga may be about fifty years of age, with a perfectly grey beard and sallow complexion*. A good-looking lad, of about six years, splendidly habited, and loaded with the usual quantity of arms, accompanied him. I should observe, that, till the Greek Revolution broke out, it was by no means customary to go so attired.

Monday, 17th Jan.-While I was reading this morning with my Greek master Kyriaca, a Papas entered the door of his apartment. It

*

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It is of him Lord Byron speaks in his Notes to the Second Canto of Childe Harold. Suleyman Aga," says his lordship, "late Governor of Athens, and now of Thebes, was a bon vivant, and as social a being as ever sat crosslegged at a tray or a table. During the carnival, when our English party were masquerading, both himself and his successor were more happy to receive masks,' than any dowager in Grosvenor-square." It will be seen, that he still preserves his social character, as well as the means of supporting it.

170

CEREMONY AT THE GREEK EPIPHANY.

was the Greek Epiphany; and he came according to custom, with a large sponge, a bottle of holy water, and a small cross. These he used in the following manner: He dipped the sponge into the holy water, and sprinkled the whole person of the Διδάσκαλος; he then presented to him the cross, which he reverently pressed to his lips. For this a piastre was to be paid; and as there are, at the present time, in Smyrna, upwards of twenty thousand Greeks of the national church, it may easily be seen what a rich harvest the Papas reap.

Before

the Revolution there were fifty thousand Greek inhabitants of Smyrna; and though the purchase of the water is optional, yet few omit a matter of such vital importance! The patriarchs are indeed said to derive the chief part of their income from the sale of this, and a holy chrism made annually, and dispersed wherever the influence of the religion prevails.

Towards the evening of this day, my very good friend Marsham (first-lieutenant of the Cambrian, and son of the Hon. and Rev. Jacob Marsham, Prebendary of Rochester, &c. &c.) performed such an act of devoted gallantry, as will go very near to render his name immortal,

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as it deserves to be. The Greek slave of a Turk, in Smyrna, took refuge from the barbarity of her master in the house of Mr. Fisher, a Levant merchant. She was in a dreadful plight when she came to him, bruised from top to toe. The merchant compassionated her situation, and harboured her till the arrival of Captain Hamilton, to whom he immediately applied for protection. Captain Hamilton, always ready to assist the distressed, as hundreds of instances will prove, immediately assented; and they deliberated upon the best steps to be taken in the affair. Our old friend aforesaid was accordingly called in; he has ever been an acknowledged favourite of the ladies, and has at all times a quick eye, a ready hand, and a warm heart at their service. But I shall make him blush-blush like the "Red Book," which is for ever blushing, though I guess not why exactly!-and scarce commodities, we read, ought not to be lavished. Waste not-want not, is an old and a very sensible adage. To proceed: my friend sent the dress of a midshipman to Mr. Fisher's during the day; and, at dusk, prepared his pistols, put a keen edge upon his sword, and

172

GALLANTRY OF LIEUT. MARSHAM.

66

a most intimidating fierceness into his look, being resolute to exterminate the whole town' rather than fail in carrying off the black-eyed Grecian. It It was the rape of a second Helen! and but for the inimitable prudence with which the affair was conducted, might have occasioned another ten years' war! But "thanks to the gods," as Addison makes Cato say, my boy has done his duty;" he brought the fair lady in safety to the ship. And here, I may remark, by way of illustrating what I have said of the quickness of Mr. Marsham's eye, that the coat, waistcoat, and smallclothes which he selected, fitted her incomparably well;-not a fault could be found with them so that I can, without hesitation, and with the utmost confidence, recommend him to any distressed damsel whatever, as the most perfect and peerless

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Squire of Dames" that ever existed;—a chevalier," sans peur et sans reproche."

This evening there was a ball at the French consul's, marked with all the characteristics of the preceding.

Tuesday, 18th Jan.-Sailed from Smyrna, and in the evening anchored off Vourla, in order to water the ships. The Seringapatam