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DR. CLARKE'S ERRONEOUS STATEMENTS.

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his waist a sash, similar to those used by the knights of the middle ages. Here also is the fountain alluded to by Dr. Clarke, with "part of an inscription, mentioning the name either. of Cassander, or of some citizen of CASSANDRIA so that it is easy to identify the place he means.

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To return to the Mosch of St. Demetrius.It is in the form of a cross; and "on each side is a double colonnade of pillars of the Verdeantico, with Tonic capitals." So says Dr. Clarke; but he adds, by way of note, "Pococke says, these pillars are of white marble. It is very possible, that under the circumstances of our seeing the buildings of Salonica," [the plague was then rife,]" an error of this kind may have escaped our observation; but Beaujour has the same remark: La nef du milieu est un beau vaisseau, soutenu par deux rangs de colonnes de vert antique,' &c. Tableau du Comm. de la Grece. Tom. I. p. 43+.". I have not Beaujour by me to refer to; but as the worthy consul declared, and as I have myself

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* Clarke's Travels. Vol. VII. p. 453. 8vo. 1818.
+ Ibid. p. 456.

DR. CLARKE'S ERRONEOUS STATEMENTS.

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already had sufficient opportunity to observe, Dr. Clarke has frequently made hasty and inaccurate remarks. There certainly is a double colonnade of pillars, but not of Verde-antico. Neither he nor Pococke is correct. The front rows have but four pillars of verde-antique, facing each other in the middle of the aisle: that row nearest the entrance, has six round pillars, of white marble, with the ornate capitals of Corinthian architecture, and three large pilasters or square shafts rising at proper distances between. Behind this colonnade are twelve small marble pillars, of the Ionic order. The opposite side of the aisle, besides the four verde-antique pillars already noticed, has five with Corinthian capitals, and two pilasters. Eleven small Ionic pillars are behind. To the right and left of the chancel, are four superb porphyry pillars, two on each side.

But of all Dr. Clarke's errors the following may perhaps be classed amongst the most remarkable. "The next day (Dec. 30th) Mr. Cripps accompanied Mr. Charnaud upon a shooting excursion into the country, to provide game for our journey; the consul being very partial to this amusement, and glad to meet

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DR. CLARKE'S ERRONEOUS STATEMENTS.

with a companion as fond of it as himself;• We shall find plenty of game,' said he, but you must promise to take away with you all the hares that we may kill, for the people of this country hold a dead hare in such detestation, that if I were to dress one for your dinner I must take the skin off and roast it myself; and the consequence would be, that none of my servants would remain in the house where it was flayed, or come into the room where it was eaten.' This very ancient superstition was before alluded to in this work; it was connected with the worship of Diana among the Greeks. But we find that fifteen centuries before the Christian æra the Israelites were taught to consider the hare as unclean; so that even to touch it was an abomination. • The hare, be

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cause he cheweth the cud, but divideth not the hoof, he is unclean unto you whosoever toucheth the carcase shall be unclean *'»

Of course I was desirous of gaining further information relative to this curious story, especially since I remembered to have seen the skins both of hares and rabbits constantly ex

* Clarke's Travels, Vol. VII. p. 457, 8.

MOSCH OF ST. DEMETRIUS.

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posed for sale by the Turks in Smyrna. Accordingly I applied to Mr. Charnaud, both younger and elder, and they both, particularly the latter, who was most concerned, assured me again and again, that there was not one particle of truth in the whole; on the contrary, the consul said that his cook would be very glad to dress them, since the skins are his perquisite; these he can sell to the furriers, who use them for a variety of purposes: and he added, that the Turks eat the flesh without the smallest hesitation.

What is here stated Mr. Charnaud afterwards repeated to several of our party: Mr. Strangways and I think Captain Hamilton and Captain. Sotheby were both present, with

many more.

The Mosch of St. Demetrius contains a fine Christian monument, with a Greek inscription relating to a female, an early convert to Christianity, which I have not time to copy : the first line runs thus:

+AVXHMANGIXOCICTOVTWHGAAHHWHICH OVC

Various crosses are yet distinct upon the marble pavement, although the infidels have done

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THESSALONICA-MOSCH OF ST. SOPHIA.

their utmost to obliterate every symbol of Christianity. Beneath this place is a subterraneous church now completely closed, in consequence, as it is said, of a man whose curiosity led him to enter its dark vaults never having been seen again.

The mosch next celebrated is that of St.. Sophia. On one of the towers is a stork's nest, a bird held, it is well known, in universal veneration. They arrive here early in March and remain till August, but on the fourth of that month precisely, (OLD STYLE!) every bird takes its departure: not one is to be found afterwards, nor is one missing till that very day. This peculiarity is no doubt amongst the good reasons assigned by the Turks for the regard they shew them.

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The Mosch of St. Sophia has nine pillars in front, of which five are verde-antique and four of red granite; they contrast but poorly with the white-washed Koran-scribbled walls of the edifice. Within are six pillars of verde-antique, three on each side: there is also a solid pulpit of the same stone, which tradition has denominated the pulpit of St. Paul. From hence he is said to have harangued the Thes

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