18

REFLECTIONS ON THE REVOLUTION.

Revolution, was the most debauched in Christendom; slavery could go no further. The mind, debilitated and powerless, shrunk into the most contemptible insignificance; and however desperate and lamentable was the cautery at last applied, it is certain, that nothing but a thorough burning out of the affected parts, could have remedied the evil. Excesses always have attended, and always will attend the Revolution of a long-enslaved nation: the very struggle to burst their bonds asunder is an effort of momentary frenzy; and the sudden snapping of the iron alone serves to hurl the enfranchised being headlong in his course. Then the buoyancy of newly-acquired freedom -the smarting of wounds in which the iron has long festered, are enough to account for, if they do not excuse, the violence of revolutionary licence. These are truths which tyranny would do well to remember. The hour of retribution comes at last; and the longer it is delayed, the more terrible are its operations. The vices of a nation, which are the first promoters and encouragers of slavery, soon become their own bane, openly and effectually and corruption, once roused by

EXCURSION TO XERES.

19

the oppressor's rod, like the scorpion, "girt by fire," plunges into self-destruction. But then anarchy and bloodshed accompany its course. The lightning, which consumes whatsoever obstructs it, purifies the air; and though desolation and death may have marked its progress, they who survive breathe more freely. They have watched it pursuing its awful track of ruin, and their minds expand; their hearts grow chastened, and they learn to substitute gratitude to heaven in the place of scorn,—praises instead of blasphemy. Deeply is the past impressed with the certainty of this. May the present attain to purity by a milder process, and less merited opprobrium !

On reaching Port San Maria, which is also garrisoned by French soldiers, whose shabby equipments surprised us not a little, we heard many anecdotes respecting robberies committed by regularly organized banditti between this town and Xeres. Captain and Mrs. Fox, who had gone thither the preceding day, and returned within half an hour after our arrival, had thought it expedient to procure the guard of three French lancers. They were not,

20

EXCURSION TO XERES.

however, required; and availing ourselves of a conveyance which opportunely offered, we set out without an escort. The fact is, that Spaniards are marvellously given to exaggerate trifles into importance; and, conceiving vividly, throw a strong colouring of fiction over the most common occurrence. Aware, in some measure, of this propensity, we had little hesitation in trusting ourselves to the chances of the way; and had no reason to repent it either in going or in returning.

The country, from Port San Maria to Xeres, is extremely barren and mountainous, except on the side toward the sea. Here it is an entire swamp. A few olive, and occasionally, orange groves, interrupted the monotony of the scene, with hedges formed of the aloe, and a plant called the prickly pear, (the cactus opuntia,) which are almost impenetrable. As we approached the object of our pilgrimage, vineyards, of considerable extent, began to show themselves, but not as in Italy and France, trained up long poles. The vines here are not higher than currant bushes, to which in the distance they have great simi

larity. The effect is, therefore, less striking and picturesque. While the fruit, though well calculated to produce "your excellent Sherris," is of inferior flavour, and very small. On reaching Xeres, which is distant about eight miles from Port San Maria, our coachman, mistaking the orders we had given him, drove to the residence of Mr. Gordon, a gentleman of very extensive mercantile pursuits. Notwithstanding the intrusion, we were received with the utmost politeness and hospitality; and I am happy in this opportunity of repeating the thanks to which himself and his family are so justly entitled.

We were shewn the large vaults in which the house of Gordon and Co. deposit their wines, capable of containing several thousand butts. At present the stock consisted of about fifteen hundred, comprising wines of various qualities and and ages. The quantity of wine annually made at Xeres, averages very nearly thirty thousand butts. Of the spoilt wine they make brandy. The casks are fabricated upon the premises. When we entered the cooperage, the men were dining; and we noticed the remarkably fine bread of which their meal

22

XERES-MODE OF IRRIGATION.

partly consisted. A Spaniard, however poor, will eat nothing but the best of its kind; and supposing him to possess money enough to purchase two articles of an inferior quality, and but one of a higher, he will invariably select the last. An Englishman of the same class regards the abundance more than the excellence of his food; and, enjoying the one, he is little concerned, or at least he is perfectly content to be deprived of the other. This, however, is one of the smallest distinctions between the two nations.

We also visited the wine-vaults of Mr. Cranstoun, which appeared constructed on a better principle than those of Mr. Gordon. They are more airy, and the arrangement is more complete. We tasted a Sherry wine here of the colour of Port, said to have been seventy-five years in the cask. It had a pleasant luscious flavour. Attached to the vaults is a garden of a peculiar formation, but laid out with considerable attention to taste. The beds are usually elevated a considerable height above the paved walk, and bounded by a broad stone border. The walls which surround the garden, are covered with inverted