STRAIT OF MESSINA-BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT.

33

The loftier clouds changed successively into red, yellow, and gold, and at last disappeared before the full splendour of a Southern sun. A delicious prospect opened upon us, which continued through the day. The strait is about seven miles broad, and high mountains frowning upon each other from its confronting sides, sometimes in shade, and sometimes glittering in light, amid a multitude of more diminutive objects, were distinguished by their solemn magnificence. Here and there, seated upón a commanding eminence, was the house of a peasant, surrounded by the olive and figtree. At the foot of the mountain, reposing picturesquely upon the sea-shore, groups of fishermens' cottages, and occasionally a town of some magnitude, presented themselves; and as the wind was contrary, indeed almost approaching to a calm, we were under the necessity of tacking from shore to shore: thus an opportunity occurred of gratifying our curiosity in a greater degree than would otherwise have been possible. On the Sicilian coast Messina appeared to much advantage: a portion of the inhabitants were employed in fishing for the tunny as we passed, but apparently their suc

34

SCYLLA AND CHARYBDIS.

cess did not equal their exertions. Captain Smyth has given a description of the method by which it is caught. The water-courses on these mountains seem to be very numerous, and in truth, at certain parts of the year, the towns at their feet must suffer greatly from the violence of the torrent.

The whole of this day was employed in working out of the strait. We twice reached the Faro Point and were drawn back by the current, of which the celebrated SCYLLA, is, I presume, to bear the blame. The vortex of Charybdis, situated just beyond the Mole of Messina, is described by mariners as being in some respects dangerous, but I do not find that this is thought to be the case with Scylla, The distance between them is nearly six miles, and if these be indeed the points indicated by so many classical descriptions, I am totally at a loss to conceive how the frailest bark should run any danger of the one while it avoided the other. But a country so liable to mutation must needs have undergone the most extraordinary changes; and it is perhaps owing to the difficulty of assigning more appropriate situations, that these have been fixed on as the

likeliest sites, and denominated accordingly. The volcano of Stromboli was seen indistinctly as we passed the Faro Point.

Wednesday, 17th Nov.-About two o'clock A.M. we anchored in the Bay of Naples, and have to-day remained in quarantine. We are to continue so till Friday. The Bay has long been an object of encomium, and description has exercised sufficiently both the pen and the pencil—it is, however, uncommonly beautiful. Behind us lies Capri, celebrated for the country residences of Augustus and Tiberius Cæsar. To the right Vesuvius rears its giant form covered with vineyards "as with a garment." The town of Portici reposes at its foot, its white houses shining in the sun, and scattered like a flock of sheep along the coast. In front rise the Appennines, looking down upon a segment of the Bay, upon which stands part of the Neapolitan capital; and on the left, rising along the whole side of a mountainous tract, and surmounted by a citadel, the main portion is situated, at this moment glimmering in the twilight with ten thousand lights. The Revenge, bearing the admiral's flag, is at present in the Bay; besides the Seringapatam, Captain

36

NAPLES-MUSICIANS.

Southerby; and a Neapolitan frigate. At sunset Mount Vesuvius wore a delicious aspectbut of this hereafter. Although it is my intention to touch but slightly subjects so hacknied and threadbare, yet I ought not altogether to omit one of the most surprizing of natural phenomena.

Thursday, 18th Nov.-This morning we were entertained by a couple of musicians who rowed their boat to the ship. They made a singular appearance; one of them was arrayed in a jelly-bag sort of cap, terminating in a tassel. His long coarse hair curled upon his shoulders, and gave a ludicrous but characteristic air to his lank countenance; a sheep-skin coat, with the wool outward, a pair of dark cloth galligaskins" all rags and tatters," with worsted hosen wrinkling into as many lines as a "new Map o' the Indies," completed his costume. He played the bag-pipes, the bag of which was composed of the undressed skin of a goat or kid in its original shape and length, of which one leg was employed to conduct the wind from the mouth into the lower regions. The pipes of this instrument were like the "masts of some high ammiral," and truly he

NAPLES-DISAGREEABLE QUARANTINE.

37

supplied them with many a hurricane. His comrade wore a conical-shaped hat, a Mount Vesuvius, and blew lustily 66 an oaten reed." The remainder of his dress resembled that of his companion, save that his nether garment was of a cerulean plush, a venerable piece of antiquity, probably from Herculaneum or Pompeii -about this, however, I was never satisfied. They obtained a few small pieces of money and retired, doubtless well pleased with the power of their music.

Friday, 19th Nov.-We are still in quarantine, very greatly to our annoyance. This is the birth-day of one of the Neapolitan royal family; the guns of the batteries, and of the men of war in the bay are firing :-we understand that it is considered a great holiday. This circumstance adds to our mortification. The king holds a levee, and I had hoped, by means of a letter of introduction which I bring to the English ambassador, to have been presented at court; howI must bear the disappointment as I may. We have just heard that the quarantine will last till Sunday.

ever,

Sunday, 21st Nov.-After service to-day we were landed at the Vittoria Hotel, near the Villa

E