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358

NICE-DINE WITH THE GOVERNOR.

river Var, (now dried up) beyond which boundary, saith a sagacious French tourist *, the fire-fly, so abundant in the country around Nice, never adventures. The cause of this rigid abstinence from a trespass to which the "denizens of air," (as, I think, Darwin affectedly calls them,) have a peculiar claim, is not very obvious; nor, as it appears to me, is the fact very clearly substantiated.

The governor dined at three o'clock. We were ushered into an apartment which was darkened to exclude the sun. The diningroom, darker still, was illuminated by a crowd of wax candles; and thus, if we did not

burn day-light," we burnt the day. The room was small, and the party rather large, at least, large enough to fill it: so that, methinks, the exchange of natural for artificial heat was not altogether judicious. However, the repast was worthy of Gallic science: would that I could say so much for Sardinian taste! For our host marshalled the ladies in one long line, and the gentlemen in another, as if the fair sex had been nothing more than beautiful

*Monsieur Melun.

DEPARTURE OF LORD HASTINGS.

359

images; something to look at only, and not listen to!-I abominate such heathenish inventions! All that passed worthy of being recorded in this place was an unsuccessful attempt of my own to obtain a rose!-Perhaps it is just as well that it chanced so; that rose might have been prolific in thorns! What a fine moral! Rochefoucauld is right“ Quelque difference qui paroisse entre les fortunes, il y a une certaine compensation de biens et de maux qui les rend égales."treat

As the evening advanced we bade farewell to the family of Lord Hastings, with a regret, I believe, seldom experienced under circumstances of this nature. But their whole conduct while on board had been so kind and conciliating the expression of their good-will at parting evinced so much amiableness and excellence of heart, that there was not an officer of the ship who did not unite in extolling and in following them with all the best wishes. Such, indeed, ever result from the exhibition of good taste and good feeling!

Mr. Tennant also, who had hitherto accompanied us in our wanderings, remained at

360

MALTA-PROMOTION OF LIEUT. MARSHAM.

Nice, leaving us to indulge the hope that he would rejoin the ship before she left her station. The other passengers forsook us at the same time" white spirits and black, red spirits and grey," for we have had them of all colours!

Tuesday, 10th May.-Sailed for Malta at an early hour this morning, with a light wind, which has continued pretty nearly all the day.

Saturday, 14th May.-The wind called a Tramontano has for several days past carried us at the rate of six or seven knots an hour: the weather is delightfully mild.

Tuesday, 17th May.-Arrived very early in the morning at Malta, after beating about all night off the island. It blew hard, and was too dark for us to enter the preceding evening.

It is with no small satisfaction that by the arrival of his majesty's ship Rose (Hon. Captain Abbot,) we learn the promotion of my friend Marsham to the rank of commander, arising solely from the capture of the Greek pirates, recorded in a foregoing chapter. Although we shall lose him by the circumstance, yet it is of a nature too important and too reputa

CHARACTER OF CAPT. MARSHAM.

361

ble to permit regret to overpower the pleasurable feelings which should and which do attend his preferment. Long may he live to enjoy it!

The senior midshipman, Mr. Smaile, was at the same time, and for the same cause, promoted to the rank of lieutenant. We are conveying the Greek pirates to Hydra to be delivered up to the government.

Thursday, 19th May.-Left Malta with a fine wind for the Archipelago. Captain Marsham came out with us a couple of miles, and on quitting the ship was warmly cheered by the crew. A better dispositioned man does not exist upon the face of the earth, nor one with a heart more open to every generous and honourable feeling. During the time that we have been together, placed too as we necessarily have been in hourly intercourse, sufficient opportunity has been afforded for the discovery of even the minutest turn of character. Nor have I neglected in this instance what is my constant practice in others; and I think it a duty, no less than it is a pleasure and a pride to me, to enter in this page of my Journal my impartial

362 REPORTED DEATH OF THE PACHA OF EGYPT.

testimony to his merits. If people deserve censure when they do amiss, they are equally entitled to praise when they do well. And mine, however trivial and unimportant it may be accounted, shall not be withheld when I see a cause, and such cause, to record it!

The elder son of Sir Manley Power accompanies us on this voyage; and there is Anarguros Condouriotti, a nephew of the Greek chief, on board, with a Greek damsel, to whom Captain Hamilton gives a passage.

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1 Saturday Morning, 21st May. Between the Island of Cerigo and the South coast of the Morea. We have sailed at the rate of ten knots in the hour nearly all the way from Malta. Our present destiny is Milo, and then, probably, Alexandria: since the news of the death of the Pacha of Egypt reached us on the morning previous to our departure from Malta, the captain is extremely anxious about it but circumstances may change our plans, and the rumour is not well authenticated.

Whit-Sunday, 22d May.-Off Milo, but not likely to touch at present. The report here

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