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EXCURSION TO PUZZUOLI.

a most singular excavation of rock three quarters of a mile long and from seventy to eighty feet high, called the Grotto of Posilippo, where Madame de Staël tells us "des milliers de Lazzaroni passent leur vie, en sortant seulement à midi pour voir le soleil, et dormant le reste du jour, pendant que leurs femmes filent." By which it would seem that they never eat, though they may dream of eating, but subsist on sunshine and sleep. However, I saw nothing of it. In this place is the tomb of Virgil. We traversed a rich country, the road lying through vineyards, which now began to exhibit the fall of the leaf. Reaching the sea-shore, we wound along huge rocks, all more or less consecrated by legends of other days. The promontory of Misenus and the Lucrine lake are at no great distance; and a little beyond Puzzuoli is Baiæ, so celebrated for its baths and the luxury and lasciviousness of which it once was the scene. Our time was too limited to enable us to inspect it; and our object had been to see the Temple of Serapis, of which a few relics yet remain in Puzzuoli. The ancient baths here have been replaced by modern ones, and this, added to the vicinity of

EXCURSION TO PUZZUOLI-CALIGULA'S BRIDGE-CUME. 69

numerous cottages, has a bad effect. Three pillars are standing, and certain parts of the baths, but there is little of interest. Cicero's villa occupied an eminence near this temple, and the site may be seen from it. It is covered with orange groves, which also look down upon the fallen columns and dilapidated baths of Serapis. Returning to the sea-shore we beheld the remains of Caligula's Bridge, which it is said this emperor designed to carry over to Baiæ. It now extends but a little way, and is so broken as to resemble stepping-stones placed across a brook: the arches are completely gone. On the right is the town of Cuma, celebrated for its vicinity to the Sybil's cave. The market-place of Puzzuoli has an ancient statue erected to the memory of M. Flavius. On our way back we met the Duke of Calabria and two ladies of the royal family, who had descended from their carriages and were walking in the dust of the public road; a singular taste surely! The duke returned our salutation with much politeness.

We dined on board the Cambrian, and, though the wind was contrary, beat out of the bay early on the following morning for Genoa,

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by order of the admiral, for the purpose of conveying Sir Manley Power to Malta. On Saturday and Sunday it blew heavily, and not a few of us suffered. On Tuesday it became calm, and a shark about six feet long was observed following the ship, accompanied by six or eight prettily marked fish, called pilot-fish. We endeavoured to hook him, but could not succeed, and he was at last shot by an officer of the ship, Lieut. Christie, an admirable marksman: the ball entered his neck, and appeared to have penetrated the heart; he rolled over, and, before a boat could be lowered, sunk to the bottom.

Wednesday, 1st Dec.-This day and yesterday the men were ordered to fire the maindeck guns at a mark, about one hundred and fifty yards distant. Several excellent shots were made. Still calm.

last night, and

Early this morn

Thursday, 2d Dec.-A fine breeze, “fair as breeze may be," sprang up has continued all the day. ing we passed Monte Christi, Pianoso, and the Isle of Elba on the right, with the high land of Corsica on the left. The sun, breaking with difficulty through a thick cloud, gilded the

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snowy tops of the mountains with a bright rosy tinge. About noon we passed Cape Corso, and expect to reach our destination to-night.

Friday, 3d Dec.-Early this morning we come in sight of "Genoa la Superbe," as it has been styled; and certainly the beauty of its situation may warrant the appellation. It is built at the foot of the Appennines, which tower majestically around it. To the East, as we entered the bay, the rising sun gilded the highest peaks of the mountains, which were then enveloped in snow; and on the West, the dark purple cope of the morning discovered to us the outline of another bay, of considerable extent. The scenery here appears as if the waves of the sea had risen "mountains high," and in that position had been struck like the Phæacian ship in the Odyssey, by the angry power of Neptune. The undulations are a remarkable object in the spectacle, and supply its greatest charm.

many

Genoa is situated in a kind of amphitheatre, and its suburbs extend for miles along the sea-shore. The numbers of detached villas, seated on every eminence, seem like stragglers from the main flock, which repose in the sun

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GENOA-PALACES FEMALE ATTIRE.

shine on a lower and more distant point. The mole, on which the light-house stands, has been a work of some labour, and adds to the picturesque appearance of the bay. But the town itself by no means corresponds with the ideas which the approach to it inspires. The streets are extremely narrow; and, with the exception of one or two, most miserable. There are, however, some magnificent palaces, although not, in their present state, sufficient to justify Madame de Staël's high-flown assertion, that the main street (the Strada Nuova) seems built for a 66 congress of kings." Most of them have been painted externally, but the paint is now nearly effaced. Many of the noblest staircases are dilapidated; and the venders of fruits, engravings, &c. occupy the lower parts of the deserted mansion. The most striking thing in Genoa, is the gay mantilla of the females, although it is by no means general, the majority confining themselves to a simple white. It is sufficiently worn, however, to give a peculiar and picturesque air to their appearance, which is much increased by the regular and handsome features exhibited beneath. This, added to the cleanliness of their persons, gives

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