.

GENOA-DUCAL PALACE.

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them a decided superiority over women of the like class at Naples. Yet the same disgusting smells prevail in the streets of Genoa; and garlick, in all its various degrees of rankness, breathes a sort of pestilence around them.

As the birth-place of Columbus and Andrea d'Auria, Genoa is entitled to respect; but it retains few monuments of antiquity, and those are of minor interest. Its paintings, indeed, which are numerous and rich, will long continue to attract the stranger; and the marble statues, which decorate some of its palaces and churches, are, no doubt, deserving every attention. But with few exceptions, I should describe Genoa, notwithstanding what has been said of its commercial importance, as one vast ruin. The principal palaces are uninhabited and desolate; and even the residence of the celebrated D'Auria is neglected and hastening rapidly to decay. His statue has not found a better fate: stones, "weeds, and ordure, rankle round the base."

The Ducal palace, (destroyed by fire in 1777, two years previous to the change of government,) a building of considerable extent, has been converted into public offices. It contains

74

GENOA-SACRO CATINO.

a magnificent saloon, where the Senate meet, ornamented with paintings in stucco, and marble pillars of the Corinthian order. A gallery for the convenience of spectators runs along the summit. They shew here the prow of a Roman ship, said to be the remains of one employed in the defence of Genoa against Mago, the Carthagenian general. The reader may believe or reject this story, as he thinks proper.

Amongst the other marvels of Genoa, there is an extraordinary cup, entitled Sacro Catino, which has been the subject of much discussion. It ought to be mentioned in an account of the Cathedral of St. Laurence; but, as it is doubt→ ful whether I shall think it meet to gratify the reader in this case, although the church in question resembles a marble magpie, and has the unfortunate Saint, after whom it is named, broiling upon a gridiron above its gate, I shall proceed to extract from an authentic history whatever the Genoese have thought good to promulgate concerning it. And here, again, I submit the account to the pleasure of the reader.

"On conserve, dans la sacristie de cette

GENOA-SACRO CATINO:

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Métropolitaine, un monument des plus précieux que l'on connaisse; c'est le vase d'Emeraude, connu dans toute la Chretienneté sur le nom de Sacro Catino, trouvé à la prise de Césarée en la Palestine, faite par le vaillant Guillaume Embriaco en 1101. Ce vase fut choisi par les Gênois de preférence à tous les biens de la ville. Le gouvernement Français s'en empara en 1809, et il fut transporté à Paris jusqu'à la paix de 1815, qui fut rendu avec tous les objets d'arts enlevés pendant la Revolution. Il est gardé soigneusement, et on obtient difficilement la permission de le voir. La grandeur de ce Catino est d'un pan sept onces et demie, mesure de Gênes, sa circonférence est de cinq pans moins un once; il est de forme exagone ayant deux anses, dont une est polie et l'autre ebauchée. On pretend que c'est dans ce vase que Notre Seigneur mangea l'Agneau pascal avec ses disciples. Les critiques les plus habiles ne sont pas d'accord sur cette pretention, quoiqu'il en soit, c'est une pièce precieuse et fort ancienne, puisque l'on va jusqu'à dire, qu'elle faisait partie des presens la Reine de Saba offrit à Salomon et qui étaient gardés dans les trésors du temple.”

que

76 GENOA-SACRO CATINO-CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME.

This venerable Emerald cup was carefully examined by the French savans, and ascertained, beyond doubt, to be composed of glass! But the remainder of its merits is, I suppose, yet under consideration. Could antiquaries prove it to have belonged to the queen of Sheba, they might probably trace up its origin still higher? Who knows but that Adam may have presented it to Methuselah; who might hand it to Noah. Noah might transmit it to Shem, Ham, or Japheth; and Shem, Ham, or Japheth, to some of their acquaintHow the queen of Sheba came by it, may not be quite clear; but since she presented it to Solomon, there can be no dispute about her having possessed it. Harder matters than this have been got over; and the public may shortly expect to see a profound dissertation on the subject. I wish, with all my heart, that this point was satisfactorily determined; not only for the comfort of the Genoese, but for the honour of Solomon, and the queen of Sheba.

ance.

The Church of Notre Dame des Vignes, is one of the most ancient and distinguished. The nave is supported by sixteen columns of solid

GENOA-CHURCH OF ST. MARY DE CARIGNAN.

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marble, and the ceiling beautifully painted by Paganetto. But then, that which renders it remarkable, is "un tableau de la Sainte Vierge, trouvé miraculeusement en 1603."

However, in despite of the surprising circumstance here recorded, the most beautiful structure in Genoa, in my opinion, is the Church of St. Mary de Carignan. It was built at the sole expence of the family of Saoli, in imitation, as it is said, of St. Peter's at Rome. But the similarity is denied by Mr. Eustace. One great merit of this building is the chaste and simple style of the decorations of its interior, contrasted with the vitiated taste of the rest of the Genoese churches. Four colossal statues by Puget are admirable; and especially one of St. Sebastian undergoing the tortures of martyrdom. The face is marked by an expression of the keenest agony; and the body seems actually to writhe in the bitterness of mortal suffering. Here are some fine pictures also by Piola, Carlo Maratti, Procaccini, and Guercino. From the gallery of the highest cupola, there is an extensive prospect of Genoa on the East; and on the opposite quarter, the eye enjoys a beautiful diversity of mountains