know the situation of this town is on the meeting of the Rhône and Durance. On one side of it, within the walls, was formerly a fortress built on a very high rock; they say it was destroyed by lightning: one of the towers was left part standing, the walls being a yard in thickness: this was made use of some time for a public mill, but the height making it inconvenient for the carriage of meal, it has stood useless many years. Last summer, in the hot evenings, I walked often thither, where I always found a fresh breeze, and the most beautiful land-prospect I ever saw (except Wharncliffe); being a view of the windings of two great rivers, and overlooking the whole country, with part of Languedoc and Provence. I was so much charmed with it, that I said in company, that, if that old mill was mine, I would turn it into a belvidere; my words were repeated, and the two consuls waited on me soon after, with a donation from the town of the mill and the land about it: I have added a dome to it, and made it a little rotunda for the 'foresaid sum. I have also amused myself with patching up an inscription, which I have communicated to the archbishop, who is much delighted with it; but it is not placed, and perhaps never shall be. 1 "Hic, O viator! sub Lare parvulo, Sorte, supervacuâque vitâ. Non indecorâ pauperies [sic] nitens, Et non inerti nobilis otio, Vanoque dilectis popello Divitiis animosus hostis. Possis ut illam dicere mortuam, En terra jam nunc quantula sufficit! Exempta sit curis, viator, Terra sit illa levis, precare! Hic sparge flores, sparge breves rosas: Nam vita gaudet mortua floribus: Lady Mary had the merit of applying Cowley's "Epitaphium vivi auctoris," published in his Works, of which this is a copy, with grammatical alterations where necessary.-D. Mr. Dallaway does not appear to have observed that Lady Mary, in making her grammatical alteration, has, as Mr. Bowles remarks, injured the metre of Cowley's lines. -T. Herbisque odoratis corona Vatis adhuc cinerem calentem." You will know how I picked up these verses, though the archbishop did not. To MRS. FORster.' [Avignon.] DEAR MADAM,—I received yours with great pleasure, but a pleasure that is embittered (as most pleasures are) with some melancholy reflections. I cannot help thinking it a great cruelty of Fortune, that different circumstances should oblige me to live at such a distance from the woman in the world (I speak it from my heart) that I most wish to pass my life with. Your temper, your character, and conversation, are so infinitely to my taste, that I never can meet with anything to supply the loss of you. I had a letter from poor Morel two posts ago, who says he has sought you, but found you not. I agree with you, that his gentleness (and I believe that of all his species) approaches to insipidity. But is it not preferable to the mischievous vivacity of a great part of mankind? I look upon passions to be the root of all evil, and, in my opinion, we ought to search after such objects as can neither feel nor inspire them. If you were to see this town, you would think I am very happily placed on this scheme, and it is true here is nobody capable of pleasing; but, on the other hand, here is a perpetual round of impertinence; and I find myself as improperly lodged as if I inhabited a volery: the chattering of magpies, repetitions of parrots, and screaming of peacocks, are what I am ever entertained with, and it is as absurd to endeavour to reason with any of the people here as with the animals I have mentioned. My library is my sole resource. I should desire no other if I could talk with a friend like you, improving my reflections by communicating my own, but that is a blessing not to be for Your faithful humble servant. 1 From the "Gentleman's Magazine" for December, 1795. I have not found any other trace of Mrs. Forster.-T. [The Magazine gives the letter as from Avignon to Mrs. Forster at Paris."] TO MR. WORTLEY MONTAgu. Avignon, Jan. 12, N.S. [1744]. I have received yours of the 22nd December, half an hour ago. I always answer your letters the same post I receive them, if they come early enough to permit it; if not, the post following. I am much mortified you have not received two I have wrote, and in the last a letter enclosed for my son. I cannot help being very much concerned at the continual trouble he is to you, though I have no reason to expect better from him. I am persuaded the flattery of G. [Gibson] does him a great deal of harm. I know G.'s way of thinking enough, not to depend on anything he says to his advantage; much less on any account he gives of himself. I think 'tis an ill sign that you have had no letter from Sir J. Cope1 concerning him. I do not doubt he would be glad to commend his conduct if there was any room for it. It is my opinion he should have no distinction, in equipage, from any other cornet; and everything of that sort will only serve to blow his vanity, and consequently heighten his folly. Your indulgence has always been greater to him than any other parent's would have been in the same circumstances. I have always said so, and thought so. If anything can alter him, it will be thinking firmly that he has no dependence but on his own conduct for a future maintenance. TO MR. WORTLEY MONTAGU. Avignon, Feb. 17, N.S. [1744]. I AM Sorry you have given yourself so much trouble about the inscription. I find I expressed myself ill, if you understood by my letter that it was placed; I never intended it without your approbation, and then would have put it in the inside of the dome. The word "pauperie" is meant, as is shown by the whole line, 1 Soon afterwards well known from his defeat by the Highlanders, for which he was tried by court-martial and acquitted. Sir John was at this time with the army in Flanders.-T. "Non indecorâ pauperie nitens," to be a life rather distant from ostentation than in poverty; and which answers very well to my way of living, which, though decent, is far from the show which many families make here. The nobility consists of about two hundred houses among them are two dukes, that of Crillon and Guadagna; the last an Italian family, the other French. The Count of Suze, who also values himself very much on his pedigree, keeps a constant open table, as do several others. You will judge by that the provisions are exceeding cheap; but it is otherwise; the price of everything being high for strangers. But as all the gentlemen keep their land in their own hands, and sell their wine, oil, and corn, their housekeeping looks very great at a small expense. They have also all sort of gibier from their own lands, which enables them to keep splendid table. Their estates have never been taxed, the Pope drawing (as I am assured) no revenue from hence. The vice-legate has a court of priests, and sees little other company; which, I believe, is partly owing to the little respect the nobility show him, who despise his want of birth. There is a new one expected this spring, nephew to the Cardinal Acquaviva: he is young; and, they say, intends to live with great magnificence. Avignon was certainly no town in the time of the Romans; nor is there the smallest remains of any antiquity but what is entirely Gothic. The town is large, but thinly peopled; here are fourteen large convents, besides others. It is so well situated for trade, and the silk so fine and plentiful, that if they were not curbed, by [the] French not permitting them to trade, they would certainly ruin Lyons; but as they can sell none of their manufactures out of the walls of the town, and the ladies here, as everywhere else, preferring foreign stuffs to their own, the tradespeople are poor, and the shops ill furnished. The people of quality all affect the French manner of living; and here are many good houses. The climate would be as fine as that of Naples, if we were not persecuted by the north wind, which is almost a constant plague; yet, by the great age and sur-. prising health I see many of them enjoy, I am persuaded the air is very wholesome. I see [some] of both sexes past eighty, who appear in all the assemblies, eat great suppers, and keep late hours, without any visible infirmity. It is to-day Shrove Tuesday; I am invited to sup at the Duchess of Crillon's; where I do not doubt I shall see near fifty guests, who will all of them, young and old, except myself, go masked to the ball that is given in the town-house. It is the sixth given this carnival by the gentlemen gratis. At the first there were one thousand two hundred tickets given out, many coming from the neighbouring towns of Carpentaras, Lisle, Orange, and even Aix and Arles, on purpose to appear there. Don Philip is expected here the 22nd: I believe he will not stay any time; and if he should, I think in the present situation it would be improper for me to wait on him. If he goes into company, I suppose I may indifferently see him at an assembly. TO MR. WORTLEY MONTAGU.1 Avignon, March 25 [1744]. I TAKE this opportunity of informing you in what manner I came acquainted with the secret I hinted at in my letter of the 5th of February. The society of Freemasons at Nismes presented the Duke of Richelieu, governor of Languedoc, with a magnificent entertainment; it is but one day's post from hence, and the Duchess of Crillon, with some other ladies of this town, resolved to be at it, and almost by force carried me with them, which I am tempted to believe an act of Providence, considering my great reluctance, and the service it proved to be to unhappy innocent people. The greatest part of the town of Nismes are secret Protestants, which are still severely punished according to the edicts of Lewis XIV. whenever they are detected in any public worship. A few days before we came, they had assembled ; their minister and about a dozen of his congregation were seized and imprisoned. I knew nothing of this; but I had not been in the town two hours, when I was visited by two of the most considerable of the Huguenots, who came to beg of me, with tears, to speak in their 1 Indorsed "Brought by William." [Lady Mary's servant.]-T. |