slide through the fingers or by pulling them through with the right. If a whip is carried, grasp it in the palm of the right hand, butt up, above. This method does away with removing the support of the right hand as the leg is thrown over the horse's back. After one has learned Another method of mounting is I, to ride it is well to practise mountto stand opposite the saddle-girths;ing from the right side, reversing the methods given above. To Dismount. Grasp the mane near the shoulder with the left hand, which also holds the reins; place the right hand on the right skirt; to steady the body withdraw the right foot from the stirrup, and whilst throwing it over the saddle slide the right hand back to and grasp the cantle, to ease the descent. Restlessness in being mounted is often caused by the rider's foot tickling the horse's side, but oftener from rough treatment, or allowing the horse to rush off the moment the rider is seated: he should always be made to stand a few seconds. If he starts before you are ready to rise from the ground, say "whoa" and shorten the reins with the right hand to check him, then let them slide through the fingers to position. It is better to mount only halfway, not throwing the leg over, and come back to the ground to quiet him than to get on whilst he is moving. He may often be made to stand by shortening the right rein or reins, thus pulling his head to the right and holding it there until mounted. A simple way to make him stand, if very restive, is to let the groom pick up his off fore-leg and hold it close to the horse's elbow. Some horses do not like to have their heads held by a groom while being mounted and will be quiet so soon as released. 2, grasp the pommel of the saddle with the right hand, which also holds the reins; 3, take the stirrup The Seat. Sit without putting in the left hand and insert the the feet into the stirrups, the weight foot; 4, take a lock of the mane, of the body resting on the buttocks; half-way up the neck, in the left shoulders back; elbows close, hand, thumb uppermost; 5, then though not pressed to the body; proceed to get on as described the thighs grasping the saddle; the The Seat. legs, below the knees, hanging per- length of stirrup, however, must be pendicularly, and back far enough regulated, somewhat, by the feeling to cover the girths; toes slightly of comfort after trial. Having once in; the side of the calf of the leg ascertained this length it will be and the inside of the knee will then found convenient to note it by be found to grasp the saddle; the measuring from the finger-tips, restwhole body at ease. A strong grip ing on the buckle of the stirrup (the at the knee and with the inside of latter, of course, being against the the calf is as important as the thigh stirrup-bar of the saddle) toward the grip and is easily secured by turn-arm-pit, with the stirrup and leather ing the toes well in. The foot should be nearly parallel with the horse's body. The shapes of different men require modifications in the seat, but a good rule to bear in mind is "toes in and heels down." The length of the stirrup-leathers should now be regulated so as to make the bottom of the iron hang about an inch higher than the hollow of the foot just in front of the heel of the boot, when "the seat" will remain as above described, excepting a slight throwing forward and raising of the knees. The under the arm. See how near the arm-pit the bottom of the stirrup comes, and thereafter, keeping this point in mind, the rider may know whether his stirrups are about the right length before mounting on any saddle. One of the quickest ways to learn "balance" and to get "shaken down" into the saddle is to ride on a pad a few times, or in the saddle without the stirrups, upon a gentle horse in a riding-school, if possible; or, if no riding-school be available, have the halter left on with the bridle and fasten to it a rope twenty or twenty-five feet long; let an attendant hold this and cause the horse to trot in a circle and at the same time retain control of him. It is a good plan to practice riding without stirrups (crossing them over the front of the saddle). In road or park riding the stirrups may be under the ball of the foot. In hunting or rough riding the foot should be pushed "home," that is, as far into the stirrup as it will go. Never use too small stirrups; there is danger of the foot catching in case of a fall. Stirrups with broad "treads" (the bottom where the foot rests) are the most comfortable. Do not ride the same horse upon all occasions; frequent changes give ease and security to one's seat and teach general management. In first rides, only a snaffle-bit Snaffle-bit. and a single pair of reins should be used, one rein being held in each hand. Any horse fit for a beginner will start upon the rider moving and loosening the reins and pressing the heels slightly. To turn, pull the rein on the side in the direction_toward which you wish to go. If intending to turn, do not commence pulling until quite ready to change direction. Do not raise the elbows or hands in turning. To stop, slightly raise and draw in the reins, ceasing the pull as soon as the horse stops. Most Southern and Western horses are trained to guide by simple pressure of the reins on the side of the neck opposite to which it is desired to turn, and all well-trained saddle-horses should be so trained. Having become accustomed to the motion of the horse at a walk, he may be made to trot by steadying the reins, leaning slightly forward and pressing the legs against his side, clucking to him, or touching him lightly with the whip if necessary. There are two methods of riding at the trot: the close-sitting, and rising in the stirrups. In the former, the rider gives himself up to the motions of the horse, holding the body and legs without stiffness. It is possible for the rider who has attained good "balance" to sit upon most trotting-horses without being thrown noticeably from the saddle, though on a rough-gaited horse it is very fatiguing. In "rising to the trot," the rider partly raises himself and is partly thrown up from the saddle at every other step of the horse, using the knee as a pivot, aided by a slight pressure upon the stirrups. This rising is easily acquired, but must only be attempted when the rider feels the rise to be in accord with the step of the horse. Do not allow the legs from the knees down to swing backward and forward; nothing is more awkward. Keep the head and shoulders well back. Be careful not to throw the waist forward at each rise: it is better even to throw the head and shoulders forward to overcome this most awkward fault. The Canter is an acquired form of slow galloping. When a horse begins to canter, he turns himself a little to one side, that he may advance the fore-leg he is going to "lead" with, and he may be made to take this gait from a walk or slow trot, by lightly pulling and raising the rein, at the same time touching him with the heel, pressing with the leg behind the girths and throwing the greater part of the weight of the body on the side opposite the one it is intended to have him "lead," and causing him to increase his speed, at the same time curbing him. If the rider wishes him to start off with the right leg, the left rein must be slightly tightened and the left flank touched, and viceversa. In cantering in a circle or on a short curve, the horse should always lead with the inside leg, that is, the leg toward the centre of the curve. The reins should be held firmly but gently. Mr. E. L. Anderson, a modern authority, holds that if the horse is lightened in front (that is, made to raise his legs by a 'play' of the bit) he may be lightened more upon one side than upon the other by increased action of the bit upon that side." He therefore advocates that if we wish "to make the horse gallop by leading with the right side, we shall lighten that side by a 'play' of the right rein, and bend the croup by an application of the left spur. In the canter and gallop the body should not be held stiffly from the waist upward, but move with the horse. The Gallop is a natural pace, and consists of a succession of leaps, in which the legs of one side leave the ground after, but pass beyond, the legs of the other side. The horse "leads" or starts to gallop as in the canter, and may be made to "lead" as described above. In riding the gallop, the rider's body is thrown slightly back, the knees hold the horse's sides firmly, but not too tightly, and the hands are held low. In fast galloping the rider sometimes stands in the stirrups, holding by the knees to the saddle-flaps, and bending forward from the waist. The canter and gallop are easier for women, if the horse lead off with his right Holding the reins, Fig. 1. Holding the Reins. If only one pair of reins is used, they should be held in the left hand, by placing all the fingers between them but the forefinger, and then turning the ends under that finger and grasping them between it and the thumb. If it is desired to shorten the hold, the grasp can be loosened, the end taken in the right hand, and the left hand pushed up. In holding the reins thus, the thumb should be pointed forward, the little finger near the pommel, and the elbow close at the side. The right rein is now the upper one, and either it or the left can be pulled at pleasure by simply turning the wrist, without lifting the hand. When the rider has gained experience, and rides with two pairs of reins, different styles of holding them are adopted. The following is one of the most common: The snaffle reins are held in the left hand, separated by the last three fingers and coming out between the forefinger and thumb, the curb reins being held in the same hand, the near rein between the third and fourth finger and the off between the second and third, the ends coming out between the ends of the snaffle reins. Some riders place the curb reins on the outside and the snaffle reins inside, arranging the fingers as above. All the reins may Holding the Reins, Fig. 3. SS, Snaffle-reins; CC, Curb-reins. well up toward the knuckles and the hands firmly closed. As a rule, the hands should be held low and not far forward: about over the pommel of the saddle will give pull enough to control the average horse and yet not look awkward. The learner should avoid depending on his reins to hold himself on his horse, and should be able to keep his seat without their aid. Leaping. A horse can be taught to leap by leading him over a bar, say, sixteen feet long, supported in any convenient manner. At first the bar should be held so low that he can step over it, and gradually raised until it will be necessary for him to jump. Care should be taken not to force or frighten him. Four or five leaps in a day are enough. When a horse is well trained he will jump moderate obstacles either from a stand still or a walk. After he has learned to jump with the leading rein, he may be mounted and put through the same course. He should not be punished for refusing unless he be a rogue. A nervous horse be carried in the right hand in the should be handled gently, and casame manner if desired. Some ressed and rewarded after his lesson, riders hold the reins as in figure 3. which should be ended after a jump, If it is desired to ride with both never after a refusal. In jumping hands, the reins being in the left, from a standstill or walk, the rider the right hand (which holds the first pulls lightly upward on the reins, whip, butt uppermost) may be placed speaking, and pressing his legs to the in front of the left hand and take horse's sides to force him forward. the right snaffle rein between the As he rises, the rider bends slightly first and second fingers, the thumb forward; but when the horse is in under it, not removing it from the the air, he leans back, both to keep left hand. Or both the right curb his balance and to receive the shock and right snaffle may be taken in of landing without being pitched the right hand as in Fig. 1, remov-forward, resuming the erect position ing them from the left hand or not, as the horse's hind legs reach as desired. These methods may the ground. This leaning back may be practised with reins or pieces of tape before taking a riding lesson. After a little practice, the rider can pull on which ever rein he wishes. Either the curb or snaffle may be the tight, or riding, rein at will; but it is not well to ride with both tight at the same time. The reins between the fingers should be held be learned upon a gentle horse by raising the right hand and throwing it back as if to slap him on the hind quarter as he rises. The reins are held not too tightly till the horse's fore-feet strike the ground when they are tightened to give him support. In the leap from the trot or canter the rider takes nearly |