14

MOONLIGHT CONCERT.

etiquette for the men to ignore their presence. Presently a song is called for; and a huge mustachioed giant advances to the window of the steward's cabin, and clears his voice. He is the gran tenore of the regiment. Standing outside the cabin, and placing his hands on the roof, about as easily as you might rest yours on a mantelpiece- the light falling full on his face he sings some Tyrtæan strain, darkly alluding to the Czar, under threats of "driving aback to his mountains the grizzly old bear;" and each verse closing with the refrain

"Then come along-cóme along - drink while you may ! To-morrow we fight, boys (bis) — let's be happy to-day!

Poor fellows! The chorus is real enough for them; and the monotone of the rushing water as the ship dashes on with them to her Goal, does not lessen its significance. But the concert is soon over, as our hours on board ship are early. So, good night!

LETTER III.

Camp, Oct. 6th.

THE bold headlands of the Crimea loomed on our horizon on the afternoon of the 3rd; and we anchored in Eupatoria Bay just in time to hear the bells on board some twenty great black men-of-war announce midnight. Here we learnt-what we were unpatriotic enough to hail as good news-that Sebastopol had yet to be taken. At dawn, we resumed our voyage, and a fine day showed to great advantage the bluff scarped masses of the interior. Every second mountain seemed a natural fortress; it was like passing a series. of Gibraltars.

Sebastopol we reconnoitred at a respectful distance. A jet of light smoke leapt every now and then from the forts, but at too long intervals, to make us apprehensive about the assault being in progress. In less than an hour more, we were steaming straight into what seemed a curved bank of high limestone rocks. It soon proved, however, to be obliquely cut, about the centre, by a narrow inlet, like the estuary of a second-class river.

Balaklava harbour (for such it was) is nothing more than the continuation below the sea's level of a precipitous gorge. For some distance from its mouth, it may be said to be skirted less with shores than with walls; and so rapidly do these descend, that within a few feet of them ride our men-of-war, lying side by side, as snug as if in dock.

The memory of our first introduction to Enemy's Country, will, I am sure, be forgotten by no one of our party who was gifted with a sense of the noisome. At the entrance of the harbour, considerable curiosity had been excited on board, by the spectacle of a dead horse, its legs sticking starkly out of water, being towed by a steamer out to sea. But the reason soon became obvious to the dullest olfactories. Floating in all directions, but especially near shore, were the bloated bodies and fragments of animals, in every stage of decomposition; and in numbers sufficient to account for quite as much sickness as we afterwards heard was in the

place. I suppose it can't be helped; but "'tis pity;" because here are maintained two hospitals for the poor fellows from camp. As regards our own party, you may be certain no one among

us was going to play Hotspur's "waiting gentlewoman" thus early in the day. So, gaily ignoring the carrion, we here wished each other good speed, and went our several ways. Fortunately for me the was in harbour. Next morning, therefore, (having slept on board the transport,) I set off to deliver my letter and parcel. I found that was closeted with Lord Raglan, and, waiting till he was disengaged, I employed the interval in observing the scene around me. The town, though it boasts one or two mean-looking churches, and though a ruined tower crowns one of the heights above it, is a sad tumble-down affair. It is situated two or three hundred yards from the mouth of the harbour, and straggles for about a quarter of a mile along the south side of it, on the narrow strip of shore which there intervenes between the water and the rock. In general effect, it reminded me of the sort of places one sees in some parts of Ireland, where stone is abundant, and nothing else; and where copious whitewash does duty for repairs. Lord Raglan's house was not much above the level of the general wretchedness.

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18 SENTRY AT HEAD-QUARTERS

QUAY.

Before the door paced to and fro a sentry, whose get-up was not at all out of keeping with his situation. He had a soiled red coat; its ragged worsted tags were the reverse of ornamental; and its open collar showed neither stock nor shirt. His rusty

black trousers gaped vainly here and there for buttons, and were tucked up unceremoniously at the heels to keep dry. His boots were the colour of the dust they trod on; so were his Saxon locks, and sunburnt face. Nevertheless, there was that about his quiet honest bearing, which would, I think, have proclaimed him, even without the distinctive red, a British soldier.

The quay before the house was one struggling mass of bullock-waggons, dromedaries, and ammunition-carts. There were Jack-tars in couples baling out of barges heavy shot, and using for that purpose an iron instrument, shaped like two Greek es placed over each other, one upside down, and the other erect, so that the circles coincide (each man takes hold of the two prongs at his own end, and the shot lies in the central ring). Commissaries were shouting to bombardiers, soldiers were imprecating