and Co., at Beaumont le Roger, in the department of L'Eure; Berteche Lambquin and son, at Sedan; Chefdrue and Chauvreulx, at Elbeuf; Victor and Auguste Grandin, also at Elbeuf; Lemaire and Randoing, at Abbeville; and lastly, Julien, Guibal junior, and Co., at Castres. All these manufacturers have obtained the gold medal, some of them more than once; several have been honoured with the badge of the Legion of Honour, in reward for their labours, and for the improvements introduced by them into their branch of art.

For another description of woollen stuffs, the manufacturing establishment of Paturle, Lupin and Co. is especially distinguished. Their goods are exported to the Netherlands, England, Italy, and America, where they sustain the reputation of their able manufacturers. It is a well-known fact that the head of this establishment, after receiving several gold medals, and taking his place in the committee so often mentioned, enjoys at the present day the honour of a seat in the Chamber of Peers.

Next in rank are Eggly, Roux and Co., whose goods unite strength to beauty; Griolet, already mentioned as the proprietor of spinning-mills; and especially Rey, who has evinced so much talent in his combinations of silk and wool, whence result the beautiful and varied materials known by the names of Pondicherry, Sumatra, Golconda, &c.

I will also cite Louis Aubert, of Rouen, for woven stuffs of plain woollen; the Henriots, of Reims, for stuffs lightly filled and not figured; Fourninal, father and son, of Rethel, for merinos. If I were to continue the list of all those who have won bronze and silver medals, it would soon extend beyond our limits.

In the art of dyeing threads and stuffs, the highest honours belong to the unfortunate Beauvisage, who produced a beautiful scarlet with lake-lake; to Gonin, of Lyons, who used madder alone; to Raymond, who discovered the secret of substituting Prussian blue for indigo.

Many improvements have been made in colouring silk, by

three of Roard's pupils-Perdreau, of Tours, Renard and Brunel, of Avignon. Widmer of Jouy, has discovered a fine green, with which he colours cotton stuffs, without a successive application of yellow and blue. The English offered a reward of 50,000 francs for a similar discovery. More recently, Guymet, guided by a knowledge of chemistry, has succeeded in producing by artificial means the substance called ultramarine; one formerly more valuable than gold, and of as fine a quality as that formerly extracted grain by grain from lapis lazuli with great difficulty; and what adds greatly to the value of the discovery is, that the new and abundant ultramarine is two hundred times cheaper than the old.

As we mentioned before, the arts which relate to clothing were in a flourishing condition during the restoration, on account of the splendour required for sacerdotal vestments, and various ornamental articles for churches. The magnificence displayed at the coronation of Charles X. was a proof of this, and of the manufacturing treasures France had accumulated during the calm of peace.

The Koechlin family, so celebrated in the art of printing goods, have evinced the same activity in continuing as in creating it. It was Daniel Koechlin who discovered the chemical agents capable of acting upon Turkey red. The glory of having solved this important problem, gained him the homage of our neighbours the English.

"After the peace of 1814," says M. Charles Dupin, "this celebrated manufacturer visited England. The entrance to a manufactory of printed cottons was refused him; he sent a small pattern of one of his own pieces of goods to the proprietor, who, filled with admiration, opened his doors to Daniel Koechlin, astonished that any one who was the author of a similar master-piece, should come to England to gain information."

Besides Daniel Koechlin, the art of cotton-printing claims several other members of this honourable family: the Koechlin brothers, Grosjean Koechlin, Schlumberger, Koechlin and Co., all

established at Mulhausen, and all in the habit of receiving gold medals at the exhibitions. Their reputation is spread over all the world. Numerous similar establishments were formed in all places. Gros, Odier, Roman and Co., whose manufactory is established at Wesserling (Haut Rhin), executed all the transformations of cotton with rare excellence, and deserve to rank highest, as well for the design, colouring, and delicacy of the prints, as for the excellence of the material. Dolfus Mieg and Co., at Mulhausen, are not less distinguished for skill, and the extent of their commercial operations. The Hausman brothers, of Ingelbach (Haut Rhin), were the first who applied lithographic engraving to making impressions upon cotton, woollen, and silk, a method uniting beauty to cheapness. They also excelled in the use of the double roller. Hartmann, father and son, of Munster, obtained superior results in every species of printing; and excel, also, in the simple kind, in which they display a taste and beauty of execution which leave nothing to be desired. Adrien Japuis, a pupil of Oberkampf, is the founder of the Clay establishment (Seine et Marne); by incessantly renewed efforts, efforts continued by his children, he has succeeded in obtaining results which do honour to the nation. It would be unjust to omit to mention Hailmann and Hofer, of Mulhausen, who, since 1819, have obtained the gold medal, as well as the Koechlins and Dolfus Mieg.

CHAPTER LIX.

CASHMERE SHAWLS, &c.

HE spinning of the cashmere down is a fortunate innovation which has enabled this material to vie with the various new stuffs obtained by the mixture of woollen and silk. Hindenlang deserves to be considered as the founder of this new branch of art, which now occupies millions of workmen. He was the first who established this sort of spinning, and produced, in 1813, the first cashmere threads suitable for being woven into shawls.

M. Joseph Ulric Hindenlang, the eldest of his family, was born at Bâsle, in Switzerland, in April, 1795, and began his manufacturing career at an early age: since, in 1813, we find him already superintending the spinning of the cashmere down. This branch of trade, brought to a great degree of perfection at the present day, is a source of great wealth to the country, and owes its rapid progress to the constant efforts of Hindenlang. Ambitious to ameliorate the condition of his productions, he eluded no difficulty (and he encountered numerous ones), he avoided no sacrifice to bring it to perfection.

Since the exhibition of 1819, where he obtained the silver medal, Hindenlang has always been the object of the committee's highest approbation. In 1823, the gold medal was decreed to him, and he was, besides, made a member of the General Council of Mannfactures, and a knight of the Legion of Honour. At the exhibitions of 1827 and of 1834, Hindenlang again took the gold medal, an honour which was confirmed to him in 1839, not only for the spinning of cashmere down, but also for that of merino wool—a branch which he united to his former one in 1836, and in which he has made such improvements, that at the last exhibition he presented merino threads of

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a fineness previously unknown. These extra fine merino threads, which no one had yet undertaken to spin, have become of general use since that epoch, and have given birth to a number of novel articles, the fabrication of which was impossible with the woollen threads in former use. This remarkable innovation was an important service rendered to the trade in woollen goods. The committee appreciated it; and the government, eager to notice the useful labours of Hindenlang, conferred upon him the grade of officer of the Legion of Honour, at the close of the exhibition.

In modern days, M. Lemare has gained a high reputation by the constancy with which he has devoted himself to the art of making ingenious and economical apparatus. Every one is acquainted with his cooking apparatus, which has been so often imitated.

Towards the end of the year 1820, he made public some new cooking-vessels called autoclaves. This invention is, in fact, no other than Papin's vessel applied to domestic purposes, and especially to the cooking of food. The autoclave vessels have the advantage of making good soup, and of cooking meat in less than half an hour. But this apparatus requires great caution. It has been the cause of terrible accidents. Who does not remember the tragic death of the singer Naldi? This artist, having procured an autoclave vessel, wished to put it to proof in presence of several of his friends. Whilst the guests were awaiting the result of his experiment, the vessel exploded, and spread terror among the beholders. Several were wounded; Naldi was killed on the spot.

Lemare has three times obtained the silver medal at the exhibitions. In 1834, the committee made honourable mention of an invention of his for baking bread.

The stoves and culinary utensils of M. Harel are of great use in domestic economy; they are much sought after by housekeepers. Their inventor received the silver medal at every exhibition since that of 1819.