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GUATEMALA

of Salama, traverses the S. districts of Vera Paz, receiving the large tributary of Rio Cajaban, and falls into the lake of Isabal. It has a total length of 150 m., and may be ascended by canoes for 80 m. It was on the banks of this river that an English company in 1839 attempted, unsuccessfully, to found a colony. The largest stream falling into the Pacific is the Rio Michatoyat, which rises in the lake of Amatitlan. It has a rapid course of 70 m., for the most part through an unbroken forest. It has several falls, one of which, near the village of San Pedro Martyr, is over 200 feet in height, and in wildness and grandeur comparable with the finest cataracts of the continent.-The tableland which forms most of the surface of the republic has an elevation toward the S. border of about 5,000 feet above the sea, rising still higher to the northward, and reaching its greatest altitude about lat. 15° 30', long. 91° 45'. Thence it sinks gradually toward the N. E. coast, and is broken by several deep valleys. The descent toward the Pacific side is so steep that from the ocean it presents the appearance of a range of mountains. There are no ridges, however, which rise above the character of hills a few hundred feet high, except those formed between the deep valleys which cut into the plateau on the E. border. There are several isolated volcanoes on the Pacific side, all of which are on a line with those of San Salvador and Nicaragua. They are of vast size, and, rising generally from a lower base than those of Mexico and South America, leave an impression of greater altitude and more imposing grandeur. The loftiest of these are the volcanoes of Agua and of Fuego, which dominate the old capital of Guatemala; the first is 14,507 feet in total elevation, and may be ascended; the second rises to the height of 13,930 feet, but no mortal foot has yet reached its top, whence proceeds constantly a volume of smoke, varied by frequent eruptions of fire and ashes. The volcano of Atitlan, near the lake of the same name, has an altitude of 11,510 feet, and there are numerous other extinct cones of eruption varying from 3,000 to 8,000 feet in height.— The climate of Guatemala varies greatly with its varying elevations, from the usual tropical heats of the seaboard, through the intermediate spring-like temperature of the interior plateaus, to the cold and often wintry climate of the mountains. The plateau on which the capital is built is elevated 4,200 feet above the sea. Here, for the year 1857, the average maximum of the thermometer was 88.7°, the average minimum 38.9°, and the average mean 65° F. The barometrical average mean for the same period was 25.23 inches, the range being very slight, indicating an equable state of the atmosphere. The amount of rain which fell during the same year was 54.5 inches, being less than half the average amount which falls under the tropics, calculated by Prof. Johnson in his tables at 113 inches. On both coasts the temperature is of course higher, but the data do not exist

for a comparison with that of the interior. At Santo Tomas, for the months of January, February, and March, 1842, it averaged 84 F°. at noon. In the departments of Quesaltenango, Totonicapam, &c., denominated Los Altos, frost and of the year; and here wheat, peaches, apples, snow are not uncommon during certain months and other products of higher latitudes are grown in abundance. The products of the country at large are therefore as various as its soil and climate. Rice, cotton, sugar cane, tobacco, indigo, &c., flourish luxuriantly on the low grounds, while the intermediate altitudes are devoted to grazing, and the cultivation of coffee and cochineal. The latter is the great staple of the republic, and its production has risen from 100 seroons of 150 lbs. each in 1827, to 700 seroons in 1830, and 9,794 in 1849. It is however almost exclusively produced in 2 or 3 districts near the capital, and the crop moreover depends upon so many contingencies that it is exceedingly following statement: 1849, 1,469,100 lbs.; 1851, precarious. Its variations will appear from the 1,231,610; 1852, 567,000; 1853, 312,700; 1854, 1,757,300; 1855, 1,204,510. The staple of the mountain districts of Los Altos is wool, which is manufactured into a coarse variety of native cloth called jerga, for domestic consumption. lbs., valued at 7 cents a pound. As already The wool crop for 1857 was about 1,500,000 said, wheat of a superior quality is raised here, but, in consequence of the absence of roads, does not enter largely into commerce. Its value in Quesaltenango is about 17 cents a bushel, while in the city of Guatemala, less than 100 m. distant, it is upward of $1.—In respect of minerals, Guatemala does not appear to be rich; the only mines which are worked to advantage being on the frontiers of Honduras, and belonging to the great mineral system of that republic. They comprise gold, silver, copper, and lead. Jasper, marble, and sulphur are found, and salt is manufactured on the Pacific coast. Beside the animals common to the American The animal kingdom is very rich and varied. continent, there are the zorillo, a species of small fox, the quetzal, a bird of magnificent plumage, the manatee or sea cow, the alligator, the green turtle, many excellent species of fish, and the formidable and noxious warrior ants, which are twice the size of common ants, and move in regular array like an army.-Of the inhabitants of Guatemala, about two-thirds are Indians, and the rest ladinos and whitesthe latter being insignificant in number. There ception of a few merchants or shop-keepers in are but few negroes. The whites, with the extors of estates of cochineal and other staples; the towns, are mostly hacienderos, or propriethe ladinos, or mixed whites and Indians, are the mechanics and petty traders; the Indians, here as elsewhere in Central America, constitute the bulk of the laboring population. Some of the largest towns in the remote districts are made up of Indians exclusively, speaking their native tongues, and conforming only nominally

to the laws, religion, and general regulations of Of the total imports during this period, about the state. There are furthermore in the north-was from the United States and from Great ern districts, around the head waters of the Rio Britain, France furnishing the next largest Usumasinta, a number of indomitable Indian amount. The customs dues are levied specifically, tribes, which, although included in the territo- and are said to be equal to about 30 or 35 per rial limits of the republic, are practically inde- cent. ad valorem. A considerable part of this, pendent. The relations that exist between them however, is covered by the acceptance of a and the government may be inferred from the certain proportion of the largely depreciated terms of a treaty made with one of them, the government paper in payment of duties. CoManches, in 1837, which provided that they chineal pays an export duty of 62 cents on should be regarded as under the protection of each seroon to the church. Every package of the republic, but not to be subject to its laws goods exported pays 12 cents duty on the Atuntil at the end of 7 years, and that even then lantic, and 25 cents on the Pacific coast. The there should be no change attempted in their exportation of the live cochineal insect, as religion, nor should there be any interference well as of the seed of the native indigo plant, with their practice of polygamy. In fact, the is prohibited. The revenues from customs for distinctions of race are so strongly marked, that in many of the towns and districts, within short distances of the capital, there are two classes of magistrates, one for the ladinos and another for the unmixed Indians. The latter are always of pure aboriginal blood, and are distinguished for their rigor and cruelty; so much so indeed, that the Indians themselves often appeal to the ladino magistrates.-Until recently the commerce of Guatemala exceeded that of any other Central American state; but with the establishment of a coast-wise line of steamers on the Pacific, San Salvador, with less than half its population, has taken the lead. This result is due to several causes, chiefly the want of roads and lack of good ports in Guatemala. Its only good port on the Atlantic is Santo Tomas; but, owing to the physical conformation of the country, it is almost inaccessible, and is moreover remote from the centres of population, which are 300 m. distant, near the Pacific. Isabal, the only remaining port on the Atlantic, is not only deadly in climate, but inaccessible to any except the smallest vessels. Nevertheless, it has been through this port that the commerce of the country has hitherto been carried

on.

But the road to it is not only long and difficult, but much infested by robbers. Cargoes of value have to be sent under escort, and are often 3 weeks or a month in reaching the port from the capital. Lately, however, this route has been in great part abandoned for the facilities offered to communication with the United States and Europe, via Panama, on the Pacific side. But on this coast there are absolutely no good ports. The so called port of San José, the only one in use, is an unprotected roadstead, where vessels are obliged to lie at a long distance from shore, with which communication can only be had by means of lighters, and frequently, for weeks together, not at all. The commerce of the republic for the past 8 years in expressed in the following table:

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years were as follows: 1851, $372,643; 1852, $228,246; 1853, $203,110; 1854, $182,103; 1855, $287,558; 1856, $284,169; 1857, $303,966; 1858, $327,872. The tonnage entering the ports of the republic for the same years was as follows: 1851, 8,409 tons; 1852, 8,329; 1853, 4,629; 1854, 8,592; 1855, 12,600; 1856, 14,495; 1857, 18,749; 1858, 20,043. The revenues of the government for 1856 from all sources were $1,040,144, and the expenditures for the same year were $1,024,358. For 1857, the revenues were $743,870; expenditures, $776,016, of which $432,086 was on account of the army --a considerable excess over the previous year, due to the cost of the contingents sent to Nicaragua against Walker. The foreign debt of the republic is $500,000, at 5 per cent., for the interest on which, and as a sinking fund for its liquidation, the proceeds of the custom house at Isabal are pledged. The floating or interior debt is about $700,000. A number of annual fairs are held at different towns of the republic, at which a large part of its domestic traffic is effected. The principal one is that of Esquipulas, held on Jan. 15. It calls together many thousands of people, numbers of whom come from Mexico and South America, attracted by the fame of our Lord of Esquipulas (Nuestro Señor de Esquipulas), who has here a shrine of great sanctity and renown. According to Mr. Stephens, 80,000 pilgrims have been known to be gathered here at a single time. A large quantity of merchandise is sold during this fair, and importations from England are frequently made by way of Isabal, to meet the demand which it occasions.-The government of Guatemala, although nominally republican, is in point of fact an oligarchy, in which the real power is exercised by a few leading families, the remnants of the old vice-regal court, and the dignitaries of the church. In the political nomenclature of Central America, Guatemala is under "servile" or reactionary influences, as opposed to "liberal" and progressive principles. The nominal head of the government is Rafael Carrera, an uneducated mestizo, who first gained political importance as the leader of the Indians, in the bloody war of castes which devastated the country between the years 1837 and 1840. He bears the title of captain-general, and by

certain acts, consummated in 1854, was made presidente vitalico, or president for life, with power to name his successor. Under his rule the Jesuits, expelled from the other Spanish American states, have been invited to Guatemala, where they have founded a college supported by government, and obtained the general control of education; the convents, abolished soon after the independence of the country, have been reestablished; a censorship of the press has been instituted; and the archbishop has been invested with power to prohibit the introduction and sale of such books as do not meet his approval. The power of the president is absolute. There is a legislative assembly, but its duties are scarcely more than nominal. It is composed of 44 deputies apportioned among the departments, with the addition of two members each from the chapter of the cathedral, the university, the high court of justice, the economical society, and the tribunal of commerce. The Roman Catholic religion is established by law, to the exclusion of all other forms of worship. The university of San Carlos, founded in 1550, is still in existence, and has a considerable reputation throughout Central America; but the course of instruction is rather religious than scientific, and hardly comes up, in the latter respect, to the ordinary high schools of the United States. Among the people at large the profoundest ignorance prevails, and the majority of the population can neither read nor write. In respect of morals, the country throughout presents a corresponding dreary and unpromising aspect. Even in the more civilized departments, nearest the capital, the proportion of illegitimate births is quite one third of the total number.-Guatemala is second neither to Mexico nor Peru in its historical interest and associations. Here Alvarado found nations, no one of which was as widely diffused nor as powerful as the Aztecs or the Incas, but all of them were further advanced in architecture and the arts, and had almost, if not actually, attained a written language. The Quiches, Zutugils, and Kachiquels, the 3 great affiliated aboriginal nations of Guatemala, may be taken as the types and best exponents of that race which sent its colonies, under the name of Mayas, into Yucatan, and which, under the name of Tulhuatecas or Toltecs, carried the elements of civilization into Mexico long anterior to the foundation of the Aztec empire. The evidences of their proficiency in the arts remain to us in the ruins of Palenque, Ocosingo, Utlatan, and the numerous other Palmyras of the forest which abound throughout its territories and those of its neighboring states and provinces. Guatemala became known to the Spaniards through Pedro de Alvarado, who conquered it in 1524, and governed it until his death, which took place in 1541, at first as the lieutenant of Cortes, and afterward under a commission from the Spanish crown. In 1542 a chancery and royal audiencia were established at Guatemala, with authority over both this

country and Honduras. The captain-general received his appointment from the home gov ernment, and was independent of all other authority in Spanish America. In 1821 Guate mala declared its independence. Soon afterward the people annexed their country to the Mexican empire of Iturbide, but this measure involved them in a war with Honduras, San Salvador, and Nicaragua. A Mexican force marched to their assistance, and compelled the government of San Salvador to sign a treaty of union with Guatemala, but meanwhile Iturbide was overthrown, and a federation of the 5 states of Gustemala, San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica, under the name of the United States of Central America, was proclaimed July 1, 1823. A constitution for the new republic was completed by the national assembly in Nov. 1824. After 15 years of civil feud the union declared its own dissolution in 1839. The dis tricts of Soconusco and Chiapas, which formed part of Guatemala, had attached themselves to Mexico even before the ratification of the constitution of 1824, and in 1823 Mexico proceeded to a formal occupation of the territory. The question which was then raised was finally settled in 1854, by means of a convention, wherein Guatemala surrendered all her claims over Soconusco and Chiapas for the sum of $420,000. It is said that lately (1859) Carrera, taking advantage of the disordered and helpless condition of Mexico, has promoted revolutionary movements in Chiapas, with the ultimate purpose of annexing that province to Guatema la; but the truth of the case is difficult to be reached. Another conflict also existed with Great Britain, dating from the independence, in regard to sovereignty over the territory of Balize or British Honduras the origin and nature of which is fully set forth in another place. (See BALIZE.) This dispute has lately been settled by a convention between the two governments, which now (Oct. 1859) only awaits the ratification of the British crown, to become definite and final. By its provisions Guatemala concedes to Great Britain the entire coast of Vera Paz, from the river Sarstoon northward to the boundaries of Yucatan, s coast line of about 160 m., and an extent of territory inland to the meridian of a point on the Siboon river called Garbutt's falls, being a distance of about 80 m.-the whole concession amounting to about 12,000 sq.m. By this convention the Atlantic seaboard of Guatemala is reduced to the narrow line of coast, not exceed ing 30 m. in length, between the mouths of the rivers Sarstoon and Motagua.

GUATEMALA, NUEVA, a city, and the capital of the republic of Guatemala, built on high, level, open plain, 4,372 feet above the sea, about 90 m. from the Pacific ocean, in lat. 14° 35' N., long. 90° 30′ W.; pop., including suburbs, estimated at 45,000, and rapidly increas ing. It was founded in 1776, after the partial destruction of the old capital of the country, now called Antigua or Old Guatemala, by an

ing on its front the armorial bearings granted by Charles V. to the "loyal and noble city," surmounted by the apostle James on horseback, brandishing a sword, and the majestic, but roofless and ruined cathedral, 300 feet long, 120 feet broad, 70 high, and lighted by 50 windows. All these show to this day that the ancient city well deserved the proud title which it bore for centuries of Santiago de los Caballeros, or the city of St. James of Gentlemen. The first site of the city was nearer the volcano of Agua, at a place which is still called Ciudad Vieja. This was founded by Alvarado, but abandoned in 1541, in consequence of a great earthquake, accompanied by a deluge of water from the volcano, which occurred on Sept. 17 of that year, while the obsequies of Alvarado were being performed. Upward of 600 of its inhabitants perished, and the survivors abandoned the ruins, and established themselves at what is now La Antigua, which was itself in great part abandoned on account of a similar catastrophe which happened in 1773. The flood of water, which was the proximate cause of the destruction of Ciudad Vieja, was doubtless occasioned by the filling up of the extinct crater of the volcano by heavy rains, the water breaking through one of its sides, and rushing down the side of the mountain. The deep ravine formed in its descent is still traceable.

earthquake in 1773. Beyond its fine climate, and the beautiful prospect which it commands, it possesses few advantages. The neighboring country, although not absolutely sterile, is deficient in water, which, for the use of the city, has to be brought a distance of 15 m., through an aqueduct supported on a great number of arches. It is also disadvantageously situated for commerce, both as respects the two oceans and the principal centres of population of the republic. It is nevertheless far the most important city of Central America, and the centre of much wealth. It is regularly laid out in a quadrilateral form, with its sides conforming to the cardinal points; the streets, 40 feet wide, cross each other at right angles. The great plaza, or public square, in the centre of the town, is flanked on one side by the municipal and government edifices, opposite to which is the cathedral. The city can boast of no public building of architectural pretensions, except the theatre, erected in 1858, which is of large size, and of pure Greek architecture. There is a public water tank in the suburbs, surrounded by a double row of arches. Among the other buildings may be enumerated the government house and offices, the city hall, the mint, the university of San Carlos, the Tridentine college, the hospital of San Juan de Dios, and a considerable number of churches. There is a circus for bull fights and other open air performances, an GUATUSOS, an indomitable tribe of Indians, abattoir for slaughtering cattle, and a cemetery. living on the banks and head waters of the Rio A fort mounting a few pieces of cannon, called Frio, which flows into Lake Nicaragua at its S. el Castillo, has been erected on a small emi- extremity. The country of these Indians, who nence near by, but is itself commanded by other are popularly supposed to have comparatively eminences. The private houses are low and fair complexions and red hair, has never been inelegant, but their courts, surrounded by open penetrated. The attempts made by the Cathocorridors, planted with trees and flowers, and lic missionaries and the governors of Nicaragua, decorated with fountains, are often of great during the last century, to reach and reduce beauty. The mildness of the climate makes them, though often renewed, have always been contrivances for the diffusion of artificial heat un- repulsed. A body of men under the commandnecessary, and fireplaces and chimneys are un- er of the fort of San Carlos endeavored to known. GUATEMALA (ANTIGUA), the old capital reach them in 1849, but they were driven back of the audiencia or kingdom of Guatemala, 30 with loss. It has been supposed that the Guam. W. of the above, in the centre of the plain tusos are the original inhabitants of the secludor valley lying between the volcanoes of Agua ed and almost inaccessible district which they and Fuego, having, according to the Spanish occupy, reënforced and rendered more jealous saying, "paradise on one hand and hell on the of the whites by the people of the various Inother" pop. about 20,000. The beauty of its dian towns destroyed by the Spaniards and position, the richness of the adjacent country, pirates of the South sea. There are some reaand the grandeur of the surrounding scenery, sons for believing that they are of the same have elicited the highest expressions of admira- Aztec family which occupied the western shores tion from travellers. Previous to 1773 it was and the islands of Lake Nicaragua, and that a large and magnificent city, second only to they still preserve their original language and Mexico in all Spanish America. It had up- habits, little if at all impaired. ward of 60,000 inhabitants, 100 churches, and 20 monasteries. Most of these edifices, as well as the vice-regal palaces, are in ruins, but from the adaptability of the surrounding district for the cultivation of cochineal, the city is regaining something of its former activity and importance. In the centre of the town is a grand square, and from it the traveller enjoys a prospect, the beauty of which it is impossible to convey in words. In its centre is a noble stone fountain, and facing it are the old palace, bear

GUAXACA. See OAXACA.

GUAYAPE, a river in the republic of Honduras, an affluent of the Patuca, flowing into the bay of Honduras near the port of Truxillo. This river has been celebrated from the earliest period for its rich gold washings, which are worked by the natives in a rude manner to this day. All the streams in the department of Olancho carry gold in their sands, but none have an equal celebrity in this respect with the Guayape.

GUAYAQUIL, a W. province of Ecuador, S. A., in the department of Guayas, bounded N. by the provinces of Manabe and Leon, E. by Chimborazo and Cuenca, S. by Loja and Peru, and W. by the Pacific ocean; area estimated at 14,400 sq. m.; pop. at 55,627. It comprises the 6 cantons of Guayaquil, Daule, Vinces, Babahoyo, Santa Helena, and Machala. The sea coast is very irregular, being broken by many prominent headlands, bordered with islands, and deeply indented toward the S. by the gulf of Guayaquil, which reaches inland to about the centre of the province. This gulf is thickly studded with islands, one of which, called Puna, is of large size. The Jubones, Yaguachi, Guayaquil, Palenque, and Daule, the last of which is called Santa Lucia in the upper part of its course, are the principal rivers. The surface is mountainous, part of the E. boundary being formed by a ridge of the Andes called the Andes of Quito, and the whole province, except about the labyrinth of streams which unite to form the Guayaquil, being crossed in various directions by smaller ranges. The temperature of the low country is hot and moist. Rains are incessant from December to April, and as the sun has its greatest power during this season, the land then swarms with noxious vermin. The staples of agriculture are cacao, cotton, tobacco, and rice, which, with timber, salt, cattle, wax, and ceibo wool, the product of a tufted tree used for stuffing mattresses, are the principal exports. The imports consist of wine, brandy, oil, flour, bacon, hams, cheese, dried fruits, iron, cordage, and European goods.-GUAYAQUIL, the capital of the above province and of the district of Guayas, is situated on the W. bank of the river of its own name, just below the mouth of the Daule, 50 m. from the sea and 150 m. S. S. W. from Quito, in lat. 2° 11′ 21′′ S., long. 79° 43' W.; pop. estimated at 22,000. almost on a level with the ocean, and has a huIt is built mid climate, with a mean annual temperature of 88° F. It is exceedingly unhealthy, and infested with the troublesome insects and reptiles common to that part of the country. The harbor is excellent, and there are great facilities for ship-building, excellent timber being found within a few rods of the river, where building yards of capacity for ships of the line have been constructed. The city extends for about 11 m. along the bank of the stream, just at the neck of a peninsula formed by the river and its estuary on the E. and an inlet of the gulf of Guayaquil, called the Estero Salado, on the W. It consists of an old and a new town, and is intersected by 5 small creeks which are crossed by wooden bridges. The houses are mostly of wood. The principal edifices are the cathedral, 6 other churches, 2 hospitals, and 2 colleges, with faculties of theology, philosophy, and law. There are primary schools connected with these institutions, and also a school of navigation. The streets are dirty, but relieved here and there by public squares. The river water opposite the town is fresh, but is considered unfit for

GUAYMAS

drinking on account of the poisonous mangroves which cover the banks above here. An indifferent supply of water is floated down in casks from the upper part of the stream. The city is defended by 3 forts. It has suffered severely from fires, and in consequence of a great conflagration in 1764 was almost abandoned, until a royal order was issued to rebuild it in 1770. It is an important entrepot for the trade between Lima and Quito, and exports cacao, cotton, bark, tanned hides, and thread, the first article being the staple.

wholly within the province of the same name, GUAYAQUIL, a river of Ecuador, lying and formed by the union of a great number of small streams which rise among the Andes. It enters the Pacific through the gulf of Guayaquil in lat. 2° 27' S., is navigable about 110 m. to Caracol, and in the upper part of its Babahoyo. It is subject to overflow, and is course is known successively as the Caracol and incumbered by a bar 12 m. from its mouth, and by shifting sand banks.

Sonora, on the E. shore of the gulf of California, GUAYMAS, a town in the Mexican state of in lat. 27° 55′ N., long. 110° 16′ W.; pop. about 8,000. It is the only port of entry for Sonora. It possesses an excellent harbor, and is completely sheltered from the sea. The entrance from S. to N. is formed by the island of Pajaros on the E., and by the islands San Vicente and Pitayas and the mainland on the W. There is another entrance called Boca Chica, from the S. E., having the island of Pajaros on the S. and the shore of Cochori on the N. From the principal mouth the same extent. Guaymas has a large foreign to the mole is about 4 m., and the bar is about commerce, as all merchandise destined for the interior, both for Sonora and Chihuahua, passes through its custom house, whence it is transabout $2,500,000. The mountainous nature of ported by pack mules; its annual amount is the country prevents the use of wheeled vehicles, except to a limited extent. stands on the margin of the bay, occupying a The town scarcely more than a quarter of a mile in width, narrow strip of land about a mile in length and when the mountains rise and hem it closely in. It is entered from the N. by a narrow avenue, which forms its main street. The houses are parts of the town are plastered. The bay built of stone, brick, and adobe, and in the best abounds in fish of great variety and delicacy; also with shrimps, crabs, lobsters, and oysters. The Yaqui Indians are the chief fishermen as well as laborers. dry and stony. Maize and beans, as well as all The soil in the vicinity is vegetables and fruits, come from the interior, the nearest point being 10 miles distant. Sheep, fowls, and other products are brought from the valley of the Yaqui river. The heat is intense. In the months of June, July, August, and September, the mercury often rises to 140° F. in the shade, and is seldom below 96°. The average temperature during this period is 90° for the 24 hours. During the remainder of the

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