That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 sider A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
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Side 5
... no yonder in a swimming pool . In my mid - twenties , I started work as a journalist and , soon after , gave up surfing . Although I learned to tolerate the hot , deserted streets of Melbourne in late December and early January 5.
... no yonder in a swimming pool . In my mid - twenties , I started work as a journalist and , soon after , gave up surfing . Although I learned to tolerate the hot , deserted streets of Melbourne in late December and early January 5.
Side 6
Fiona Capp. deserted streets of Melbourne in late December and early January when the rest of the world was ' down the beach ' , the young woman I had once been remained disdainful of the life I had chosen to lead , and I could never ...
Fiona Capp. deserted streets of Melbourne in late December and early January when the rest of the world was ' down the beach ' , the young woman I had once been remained disdainful of the life I had chosen to lead , and I could never ...
Side 8
... early 1980s . Although no one looked twice at the sight of a black - clad figure sliding down the face of a wave , surfers were , in many respects , a race apart . Australia liked to promote itself as a surfing paradise , but surfers ...
... early 1980s . Although no one looked twice at the sight of a black - clad figure sliding down the face of a wave , surfers were , in many respects , a race apart . Australia liked to promote itself as a surfing paradise , but surfers ...
Side 11
... earliest phase of psychic life when the child and the world are one . Few images better capture this primal ' at oneness ' than that of the surfer crouched inside the crystal , womb - like tube of a breaking wave ; an image made all the ...
... earliest phase of psychic life when the child and the world are one . Few images better capture this primal ' at oneness ' than that of the surfer crouched inside the crystal , womb - like tube of a breaking wave ; an image made all the ...
Side 23
... early twenties , I would have been mortified to be seen mucking about in the shorebreak . Real surfers caught unbroken waves . Desperate to prove myself to the world , I took to paddling out the back with the experienced surfers before ...
... early twenties , I would have been mortified to be seen mucking about in the shorebreak . Real surfers caught unbroken waves . Desperate to prove myself to the world , I took to paddling out the back with the experienced surfers before ...
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Vanlige uttrykk og setninger
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
Referanser til denne boken
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Begrenset visning - 2005 |