That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 sider A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
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Side 9
... experiences : surf too big or too small or too tricky for me to catch ; getting stuck in the shorebreak and endlessly battling the white water ; paddling out to the line - up only to be beaten to the waves by more experienced surfers ...
... experiences : surf too big or too small or too tricky for me to catch ; getting stuck in the shorebreak and endlessly battling the white water ; paddling out to the line - up only to be beaten to the waves by more experienced surfers ...
Side 20
... experienced surfers and figure out what to do for yourself . In other words , you had to do it the hard way . Twenty years later , the hard way had lost much of its appeal . Apart from wanting company and advice , somewhere in the back ...
... experienced surfers and figure out what to do for yourself . In other words , you had to do it the hard way . Twenty years later , the hard way had lost much of its appeal . Apart from wanting company and advice , somewhere in the back ...
Side 23
... experienced surfers before I knew what I was doing , and not infrequently found myself in situations that I did not ... experiences , was never dumped so badly that I lost my nerve , I spent a lot of time avoiding waves when I should ...
... experienced surfers before I knew what I was doing , and not infrequently found myself in situations that I did not ... experiences , was never dumped so badly that I lost my nerve , I spent a lot of time avoiding waves when I should ...
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Vanlige uttrykk og setninger
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
Referanser til denne boken
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Begrenset visning - 2005 |