That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 sider A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
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Side
... and the wave unfurling beneath me : this last split second of clarity and separateness before the screaming descent where mind , body and wave became one . FOR FIONA CAPP , surfing had always been more than. Front Cover.
... and the wave unfurling beneath me : this last split second of clarity and separateness before the screaming descent where mind , body and wave became one . FOR FIONA CAPP , surfing had always been more than. Front Cover.
Side 7
... mind marks the beginning of the Peninsula , I slipped on a CD of the Best of the Eagles , the soundtrack to my surfing memories . The opening , twangy riff of " Take It Easy ' sent a shiver through my body and soon I was singing at the ...
... mind marks the beginning of the Peninsula , I slipped on a CD of the Best of the Eagles , the soundtrack to my surfing memories . The opening , twangy riff of " Take It Easy ' sent a shiver through my body and soon I was singing at the ...
Side 9
... mind , it was a minor fear when surfing in Bass Strait . ) All these fears coalesced in the tell - tale corrugations of a big set looming out the back , that unstoppable phalanx of pure , liquid energy from which there was no escape ...
... mind , it was a minor fear when surfing in Bass Strait . ) All these fears coalesced in the tell - tale corrugations of a big set looming out the back , that unstoppable phalanx of pure , liquid energy from which there was no escape ...
Side 10
... mind is capable of feeling ' . He emphasised the stimulating influence of the sublime on the imagination and so heralded a new , aesthetic relationship with the sea . ' I wantoned with thy breakers , ' wrote Byron . " They to me / Were ...
... mind is capable of feeling ' . He emphasised the stimulating influence of the sublime on the imagination and so heralded a new , aesthetic relationship with the sea . ' I wantoned with thy breakers , ' wrote Byron . " They to me / Were ...
Side 11
... mind . Whole years of my life have disappeared into a hazy blur but I have never forgotten these few seconds . I was surfing with a friend at one of the many breaks between Sorrento and Rye that can only be reached by hiking through the ...
... mind . Whole years of my life have disappeared into a hazy blur but I have never forgotten these few seconds . I was surfing with a friend at one of the many breaks between Sorrento and Rye that can only be reached by hiking through the ...
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Vanlige uttrykk og setninger
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
Referanser til denne boken
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Begrenset visning - 2005 |