That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 sider A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
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Side 2
... never seen it for myself . Although surfers have been coming by boat to this break they call Quarantine , Corsair , the Rip or the Point for decades , until twenty years ago it was regarded as a secret spot surfed only by the ...
... never seen it for myself . Although surfers have been coming by boat to this break they call Quarantine , Corsair , the Rip or the Point for decades , until twenty years ago it was regarded as a secret spot surfed only by the ...
Side 5
... never would . I had always known that water was my element . When I was a girl , I wanted to be a swimming instructor . The man who taught me to swim had an indoor pool in his backyard and ran a private swimming school . The pool was ...
... never would . I had always known that water was my element . When I was a girl , I wanted to be a swimming instructor . The man who taught me to swim had an indoor pool in his backyard and ran a private swimming school . The pool was ...
Side 6
... never throw off the feeling that I was only half alive when I was away from the sea . Waves loomed in my dreams . I would be standing at the water's edge or perhaps bobbing in the shorebreak when , without warning , a mountain range ...
... never throw off the feeling that I was only half alive when I was away from the sea . Waves loomed in my dreams . I would be standing at the water's edge or perhaps bobbing in the shorebreak when , without warning , a mountain range ...
Side 11
... never forgotten these few seconds . I was surfing with a friend at one of the many breaks between Sorrento and Rye that can only be reached by hiking through the national park and clambering over acres of sand dunes . It was a glorious ...
... never forgotten these few seconds . I was surfing with a friend at one of the many breaks between Sorrento and Rye that can only be reached by hiking through the national park and clambering over acres of sand dunes . It was a glorious ...
Side 19
... never borne much resemblance to its film counter- part . I was on my way to meet local surfer Grayme Galbraith , known as Gally , who grew up in Bell Street , Torquay . The street was named after the Bell family , who owned much of the ...
... never borne much resemblance to its film counter- part . I was on my way to meet local surfer Grayme Galbraith , known as Gally , who grew up in Bell Street , Torquay . The street was named after the Bell family , who owned much of the ...
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Vanlige uttrykk og setninger
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
Referanser til denne boken
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Begrenset visning - 2005 |