That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 sider A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
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Side 2
... paddling nearby . I had spent many hours imagining my way into such a moment in my first novel , Night Surfing , but I had never seen it for myself . Although surfers have been coming by boat to this break they call Quarantine , Corsair ...
... paddling nearby . I had spent many hours imagining my way into such a moment in my first novel , Night Surfing , but I had never seen it for myself . Although surfers have been coming by boat to this break they call Quarantine , Corsair ...
Side 8
... paddling and positioning himself . But every wave he caught was a marvel . When he finally emerged from the water with the ski balanced precariously on his back , people would line the beach , clapping and cheering . Things had changed ...
... paddling and positioning himself . But every wave he caught was a marvel . When he finally emerged from the water with the ski balanced precariously on his back , people would line the beach , clapping and cheering . Things had changed ...
Side 9
... paddling out to the line - up only to be beaten to the waves by more experienced surfers ; gutlessly pulling back from a wave I should have caught . Above all , however , it was fear that had held me back in surfing and , later , kept ...
... paddling out to the line - up only to be beaten to the waves by more experienced surfers ; gutlessly pulling back from a wave I should have caught . Above all , however , it was fear that had held me back in surfing and , later , kept ...
Side 12
... paddle for the wave , I knew I had been waiting for it all my surfing life . I remember the water swelling beneath me and how I was perfectly in tune with its rhythm . I remember a surge of energy lifting me high above the hollowing ...
... paddle for the wave , I knew I had been waiting for it all my surfing life . I remember the water swelling beneath me and how I was perfectly in tune with its rhythm . I remember a surge of energy lifting me high above the hollowing ...
Side 23
... paddle . A foaming wave picked up my board , sending it skidding forward as I seized the sides and scrambled to my knees ... paddling out the back with the experienced surfers before I knew what I was doing , and not infrequently found ...
... paddle . A foaming wave picked up my board , sending it skidding forward as I seized the sides and scrambled to my knees ... paddling out the back with the experienced surfers before I knew what I was doing , and not infrequently found ...
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Vanlige uttrykk og setninger
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
Referanser til denne boken
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Begrenset visning - 2005 |