That Oceanic FeelingAllen & Unwin, 2003 - 288 sider A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing. |
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Side 6
... shore . I would feel the undertow , the suction of the oncoming waves dragging at my legs as I tried to scramble to the beach before the first wall of water descended . I'd wake before being engulfed but , strangely , I did not wake in ...
... shore . I would feel the undertow , the suction of the oncoming waves dragging at my legs as I tried to scramble to the beach before the first wall of water descended . I'd wake before being engulfed but , strangely , I did not wake in ...
Side 8
... shore dunes of the Sorrento back beach with his parents and a few other families . ( Now the area is a national park and camping is prohibited . ) They would play in the dumpers and swim in the rock pools and go fishing off a squat ...
... shore dunes of the Sorrento back beach with his parents and a few other families . ( Now the area is a national park and camping is prohibited . ) They would play in the dumpers and swim in the rock pools and go fishing off a squat ...
Side 12
... shore . Above all , I remember the instant at the top of the wave , just as I rose to my feet to ' take the drop ' , poised on the brink with the weight of the inrushing ocean behind me and the wave unfurling beneath me . The spool of ...
... shore . Above all , I remember the instant at the top of the wave , just as I rose to my feet to ' take the drop ' , poised on the brink with the weight of the inrushing ocean behind me and the wave unfurling beneath me . The spool of ...
Side 21
... shore winds . Now it was September and the equinoctial winds had begun to blow . As always in the spring , the weather was unsettled and unsettling . ' Just what you want , ' Gally announced , casting an expert eye over the water . It ...
... shore winds . Now it was September and the equinoctial winds had begun to blow . As always in the spring , the weather was unsettled and unsettling . ' Just what you want , ' Gally announced , casting an expert eye over the water . It ...
Side 23
... shore and started to paddle . A foaming wave picked up my board , sending it skidding forward as I seized the sides and scrambled to my knees before rising clumsily to my feet . In my late teens and early twenties , I would have been ...
... shore and started to paddle . A foaming wave picked up my board , sending it skidding forward as I seized the sides and scrambled to my knees before rising clumsily to my feet . In my late teens and early twenties , I would have been ...
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Vanlige uttrykk og setninger
Andy arrived Australia back beach Bass Strait began Bells Beach beneath big wave big wave surfing blue boat Byron Bay canoe carpark catch caught chant civilisation cliff coast dream early Emma eyes father fear feet felt foam French Freud Gally Hawaii Hawaiian head idea of surfing island Jack Jack's Jan Juc John journey knew land lived looked loved Melbourne nearby never Newquay Night Surfing Pacific paddling paradise Peninsula Point Lonsdale Point Nepean Polynesian Port Phillip Port Phillip Bay Portsea Queenscliff realised reef riding rocks Russell sand seemed sense ship shore shorebreak side Sorrento Southern Ocean St Ives story surf breaks surf Corsair surf culture surf lifesavers surfboard surfers surfing's surge swell swimming Tahiti thing thought tide told took Torquay town voyage Waikiki Waimea walking wanted watching wetsuit wind writing young
Referanser til denne boken
A Shifting Shore: Locals, Outsiders, and the Transformation of a French ... Alice Garner Begrenset visning - 2005 |