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LORD BROUGHAM'S NOSE 391

As we pursue the rough path along the cliff's edge we see below us the most southerly rock in England, called the Batha, and a reef of rocks, terribly dangerous to vessels if they are not warned off by the friendly Lizard brilliant light, known by the generic name of the Stags. It was on this reef that a Quebec vessel, bound for Hull, went to pieces in the night, and the crew taking to their boats, were immediately driven to another insulated rock, the Island or Crenval, to the summit of which they clambered, where they remained in safety beyond the reach of the waves. In the morning they gained the mainland, some bringing a portion of their clothes, one man a nine-gallon cask of rum, and another a live pig, which he had brought from Canada as a present to his brother in England. On arriving at the Lizard they were, to their great astonishment, greeted by their own cat, who, when the vessel went to pieces, swam ashore with the loss of her tail, which was supposed to have been pinched off between two pieces of timber. The pig was sold to a farmer in the neighbourhood, and the cat quartered herself at the publichouse, where her Manx-like condition gave rise to much comment and the constant repetition of the story of this remarkable wreck.

As we neared the cove, at one particular turn in the path Jose made us look back to the Lizard Point and observe the remarkable human-like profile of the dark promontory as it stands clearly silhouetted against the sky. The resemblance to the features of Lord Brougham was obvious. His was a peculiar physiognomy. It was said that by a muscular contortion he could almost remove his nose from his face for a time. He certainly could get more expression out of that organ than most persons. With a twitch, scarcely perceptible, the great Lord Chancellor could cause his olfactory organ apparently to revolve. Then he could switch it over to his left ear, or again thrust its short tip into his right eye. Many of his parliamentary colleagues declared they could remember seeing him hang his hat upon his remarkable proboscis. It is therefore not to be wondered at that even a slight resemblance between the human face on the Lizard and that of this notable personage should be observed and commented upon,

As we walked along Jose gave us some information about himself. His father, he said, had four shares in the Pilchard Company of the Lizard, which cost £2 a share. For four years no profit accrued; but, on the other hand, he had in addition to pay seven shillings a share for repairs to the nets; since then he has made as much as £27 à share a year, so that on the whole the pilchard business is not unprofitable.

The serpentine marble, I learned from the same authority, is found in falls which take place along the cliffs and also in quarries in fields, but out of tons of the rock which may be searched through very little is suitable for turning. Jose said they did all the trade retail and made all the articles themselves. Studs, sleeve-links, egg-cups, flat, round, or oval stands for hot-water jugs are some of the articles mostly in demand, and just now there is a run on buttons for gentlemen's fancy waistcoats. The "Serpentine Works (such is the designation above the little shed-like workshops) are very busy, and it is with difficulty the demand is met for the various little articles turned out. In the winter only are the workers able to lay up a stock, which sells out rapidly in the season when tourists arrive.

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The increased attention given to this district by the Great Western Railway, and the regular service of excellent motor 'buses and breaks run by the company from Helston, has made the serpentine-marble business a good paying trade. Each article has the price plainly marked upon it, and no reduction is made. From the prices I saw marked on the goods they seemed to me very reasonable.

The marble articles are all turned out on lathes and well polished.

The best view of Kynance Cove is obtained just before the descent is made to the sea from the cliff above, and the scene from that point of vantage is remarkable and unlike any other I have seen.

Kynance Cove is a spot which will remain in the memory of even the most blasé traveller. I suppose everyone has vivid recollections of certain places, and the more one moves about their number tends to decrease, certainly not to in

crease.

Each person, whether he knows it or not at the time, locks away in the cells of his brain the memory of a few

FAIRY LAND

393

landscapes or seascapes which at any moment he can readily recall. In my case, as I look back upon my travels I can recall, for example, the island of Lanzarote, St. Émilion, Lake Champlain in Canada, Niagara Falls, the Stalheim Cleft in Norway, Venice, Bologna, Nuremberg, and I do not think I shall ever lose sight of Kynance Cove. This spot combines within a very small area of earth's surface more objects of interest than I have come across anywhere. In the first place, the general effect upon the mind is that it is a very beautiful spot, with combinations of weirdly strange rocks arising straight out of a beach of pure white sand, surrounded by grand precipices, gorgeous in colouring of blues, purples, sapphire, and with the sea nearly all around. Vistas of charming delightfulness meet the eye no matter where it looks. Pictures framed as if simply for artistic effect are on all hands, and yet all quite natural, no artificiality anywhere.

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Kynance Cove is a perfect palace of rocks. scene from the Arabian Nights' Entertainments the spot seems enchanted. Some rocks rise up perpendicularly and separate from each other in the shapes of church steeples, pyramids, and even almost human forms. Some are pierced with dark caverns, while some lie, gigantic monoliths, prone on the sand, here and there studded with pools of crystalclear water, in which anemones and beauteous seaweed are seen looking like flowers in a fairy garden. Some form natural archways resembling the fabled entrances to the enchanted abodes of giants and strange monsters. And amid this wonderful scene of extraordinary prodigality no two rocks are the same in size, position, or shape.

And then a more minute inspection reveals natural features of unusual, even phenomenal, interest, for Kynance Cove must be taken homoeopathically.

Others have been struck with the beauties of Kynance Cove besides myself.

Charles Littleton, Bishop of Carlisle, made a tour through Cornwall with Dr. Borlase, and he thus speaks of Kynance Cove :

"When we arrived at the extremity of it, a natural Arched Entrance through a vast red rock led us into the finest piece of Scenery that sportive Nature ever produced:

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