Besides these, there are many satisfactory and wonderful instances of improvement to trees and fruits by the application of the composition.

HEADING-DOWN.

FOR the information of persons who are but little acquainted with practical gardening, Mr. Forsyth gives the following explanation of what is called Heading-down:

When young trees are planted out from the nursery as soon as they begin to break in the spring, they are cut down to three or four eyes, according to their strength, to furnish them with bearing wood: if this were not done, they would run up in long naked branches, and would not produce one quarter of the fruit which they do when this operation is properly performed. The same holds good in heading all kinds of old trees.

An opinion prevails (especially amongst appletree cultivators) that trees never bear well after being beaded-down. It may be so sometimes, when trees are improperly headed-down, all at once, by

giving a sudden check to the sap. But, if beading were done gradually; that is, if every other branch all over the tree were headed at a proper length, cut. ting as near to those parts where the shoots appear, as possible, in February or March, or even as late as May, in the course of the summer they would throw out fine long shoots. These should not be shortened the first year, unless it be a few to fill up the head of the tree with bearing wood; and that should be in the following spring; cutting them to six or eight inches in length, according to "their strength. In the next spring after the first branches are headed, the remaining old branches may be cut out; and these will soon fill the head of the tree with fine bearing wood. In three years, trees so headed will produce a much greater quantity of fruit, and of better quality than they did before the operation was performed.

Heading-down Orange-trees.

Just as Mr. Forsyth's manuscript of his Treatise was going to the press, he was informed by the late Portuguese Ambassador at London, that on his return to Portugal he had found the Orange-trees on the Prince of Brasil's plantations in a very unhealthy and decayed state; and applied to Mr. Forsyth for

some of the composition, and a copy of his pamphlet on the diseases, &c. in fruit and forest trees, that he might make trials of the remedy on the trees of that country. Mr. Forsyth sent him a cask of the composition, with directions for preparing the trees and laying it on.

He advises, that when it is found necessary to bead-down Orange-trees, they be not cut quite down to the stem; but to leave two or three inches of the branches, some more, some less; always remembering to cut near to a joint, and in such a manner as to form a handsome head; and to apply the composition immediately. In doing this, however, he adds, it will be necessary to leave a few young shoots to draw up the sap. If the trees are infected with insects, the stems must be washed with soap-suds and urine, and well scrubbed with a hard brush.

Mr. Forsyth informs us, he always leaves three different years branches on apple-trees, when the first shoot, d, is cut off at e, (see the pl. VI. fig. 2.) It is to be observed, the next shoot, f, will be full of fruit-buds, if it has not been shortened; when it begins to grow weak, cut it off at g. The next cutting must be at i, when the branch h is tired of

bearing. Proceed thus all over the tree with care and attention, and it will soon be perceived the advantage of this method of pruning above the common mode; for by it the trees may be kept in a constant state of bearing, which, if left to nature, would only produce a crop of fruit once in two or three years. Always remember, when the shoot that has done bearing is cut off, to apply the composition immediately, and to rub off the shoots where they are

too numerous.

The best time, he says, for pruning apple-trees is April or May, after the peaches, nectarines and cherries are pruned.

The small shoots crossing each other should be cut off; leaving the strongest to fill up the tree and make a fine handsome head.

The apple-trees chosen from the nursery, as well as the apricot and peach-trees, should have strong, straight, and clear stems.

Speaking, as it seems, rather of dwarf trees or trees in borders, he says, the same directions for beading must be observed, according to the season

and the time of the buds breaking forth, leaving the number according to the strength of each tree; cutting as close as possible to the top bud, that the leading shoot may more easily cover the wound; and constantly observing to rub off all the buds that come by the side of the leading shoot, which would otherwise rob it of its nourishment and strength, and so prevent it from making a fine leader. (See pl. VI. fig. 1.) Remember, he says, also to cut it annually to the length of from nine to eighteen inches, according to its strength, till the tree has got to that height to which you would have it run, and according to the extent of the ground; which height may be from eight to twelve feet. By these means, the trees will throw out horizontal branches on every side, and soon form handsome heads for dwarfs.

He advises that dwarf-trees be not suffered to run higher than twelve feet. From eight to twelve is a convenient height. If allowed to run higher, they will become naked at bottom, the fruit will be liable to be blown down, and the tops broken by high winds.