Plant Fig-trees 20 to 24 feet apart; and train borizontally, which renders them much more fruitful than if trained upright, which makes them run up in long, naked wood.

Leave spurs or short shoots all over the branches; and when the buds begin to swell, all the short shoots should be pinched as above.

The branches of standard Fig-trees are liable to be killed in winters; they therefore should be laid in the ground, wrapping them up in hay or straw bands, as directed for wall-trees. It sometimes will be impracticable to lay down the middle branches : then let them be well covered with hay or straw bands, and the outside laid down regularly round the tree, and avoiding to hurt them with the spade : then mulch them with rotten leaves, &c.

After hard winters it has been found necessary to cut Fig-trees down very near to the ground, and apply the composition: in two years the new wood has covered over the old stump, and the branches filled up the space, bearing a plenty of fine fruit.

In a plentiful year, what is not used at table, may be dried for winter use.

QUINCES.

: THE best sort for the kitchen garden is the Porugal, the best for baking or stewing. It is of a fine purple colour when dressed, and much better for marmalade than any other sort. These also mix well with apples in pies and puddings; adding a quick pleasant flavor.

They are easily raised by layers or cuttings taken from the tree in March. Plant in a shady place, in rows a foot apart, and three inches, plant to plant in the rows. Mulch them with rotten leaves or rotten dung, for keeping the ground moist about them. Water them frequently in hot weather. About Michaelmass the well-rooted may be planted out; and the rest let remain over to another year. They also may be propagated by budding or grafting; and those trees will bear, Mr. F. says, sooner, and be more fruitful than those raised by any other method.

Prune Quince-trees much like Apple-trees, cutting out all the diseased, old, and dead wood, and the cross branches in the middle of the tree. In general, old trees are much hurt by injudicious pruning in that case, bead them down, cut out all the

cankery part, and all the diseased and dead wood where the tree is hollow, or where large branches have been cut or broken off; applying always the composition as for Apple-trees.

Quince-trees are apt to have rough bark, and be bark-bound. Shave off the rough bark with a drawknife; and scarify them when bark-bound: then brush them over with the composition, as hereafter.

Quinces ought to be planted some distance from apples and Pears, as bees and the wind might mix the farina, and occasion the apples and pears to degenerate.

They are raised from cuttings, or from seed; some raise them from suckers: but these last are raised in a bad way; as the bushes are more liable to throw out suckers from them than in either of the other ways.

Plant cuttings, he says, about Michaelmass; always cutting them from the strongest and cleanest shoots. The length of cuttings to be six to eight inches, planting them on an east or north border, one foot from row to row, leaving them about three inches above ground: at this distance the hoe may be admitted, for cleaning them from weeds and stirring the soil. Water frequently in dry weather dur. ing the spring.

Market gardeners near London plant them in rows, 8 or 10 feet from row to row, and six feet, plant to plant in the rows. In which case, Mr. F. advises pruning them in the beginning of October; and the ground between planted with colworts or beans, for a spring crop.

After this time (or before) lay a coat of rotten dung on then dig and plant early potatoes; but not so near the Gooseberries as to hurt them.

The roots of Gooseberries are to be kept clear to admit sun and air. In small gardens, plant them in quarters by themselves; six feet between the rows, and four feet, plant to plant; or plant them round the edges of the quarters, three feet from the path; and then the ground will be clear for cropping.

Gooseberries love a rich soil; and should therefore be dunged every year, or at least a good coat once in two years.

Never plant them, he says, under the shade of other trees; which would injure the flavour of the fruit.

Pruning Gooseberries.

It is a bad practice to let Gooseberry-bushes branch out with great naked stems. When they are found in this state, cut them down near to the ground in the winter pruning. They then will throw out fine strong healthy shoots, that will give fruit the second year. In general, they bare their fruit on the second year's wood.

H