to correct an error of the score, he shall forfeit two points If a player touch his own pegs, save when he has a right to score, he forfeits two points. When both pegs have been displaced by accident, the opposite player must be allowed to restore them to their places; or in the event of being refused, he can claim the game. When the foremost peg has been displaced by any chance, it must be put into the hole behind the back peg of the player to whom it belongs.

17. He who scores a game as won, that he has not won, forfeits it.

18. A player who detects his adversary with more or fewer cards in his hand than he has a right to, can score two points and call a new game.

19. A lurch cannot be claimed, unless it be specified in the first instance. When the "lurch" has been agreed to between the players at the commencement of a game, it reckons as a double game; it consists in one player having marked sixty-one before the other has scored thirty-one.

20. When scoring points, if the pegs be quitted, that score cannot be altered. If two cards be played, and any points remain unreckoned, they become forfeited. Should a player put his cards away without taking for them, he forfeits any points he might have claimed for hand or crib.

21. When a card that may legally be played has been shown, it cannot be recalled. If it cannot be played according to the laws of the game, no penalty attaches to the

22. If a player neglects to play, when he can come in under thirty-one, his opponent may score two.

23. In reckoning a hand or crib, it must be plainly set out, and remain till the other side fully understands the nature of the claims made on account of it.

24. There is no penalty for a number called in mistake in the progress of the game.

25. As already said, the three points appropriated by the non-dealer may be claimed by him during any part of the game; but if his adversary be permitted to score his sixty-one points, it is then too late, for the game is at an end.

26. If either player refuse to pay a penalty that he has incurred, by infringing the rules of play, his adversary may claim the game.

27. Bystanders shall not in any way interfere with the progress of the game.

28. In cases of disputes that do not come within the provisions of these rules, a third party may be appointed as umpire, by consent of the players, and his decision must be adopted as final.

On laying out for the Crib.-How to discard in the best manner for the Crib is one of the most scientific parts of the game; and consequently one of the most important.

Firstly, When it is NOT your own crib, you will lay out such cards as are likely to be, in an average number of cases, of the least possible advantage to your opponent, in the production of pairs, fifteens, sequences, &c.

Secondly, When it is your own crib, you will lay out favorable cards for the crib.

Thirdly, It being you own crib to which you are about to discard, you will prefer consulting the interests of the crib, in preference, even, to those of your hand.

The most advantageous cribbage-cards are fives, sevens, eights, &c., when so assorted as to form fifteens, sequences, pairs, or flushes. The five is, of all others, the most useful card, since it makes fifteen equally with either one of the tenth cards; of which there are no fewer than sixteen in the pack. Fives must therefore be in general the most eligible cards to lay out to your own crib, and the least eligi ble (for you) to lay out to your adversary; since, in so doing, you are almost certain to give him points. To discard a pair of any cards, again, is mostly bad play, unless it is for your own crib; and cards which follow each other in order, as a three and four, or nine and ten, being likely to be brought in for sequences, are generally bad cards to lay out in the case of its being your adversary's crib. The same calculation should, in its principle, be carried out as far as possible. Suppose you discard, to your opponent's erib, two hearts, when you might with equal propriety have laid out a heart and a club instead,-you here give him the chance, however remote you may fancy it, of making a flush in his crib; which could not be effected by him, had you laid out the heart and club.

To lay out cards, purposely, which are disadvantageous for the crib, is called in the "cribbage dialect" of our ancestors "baulking" or "bilking" the crib.

The least likely cards to reckon for points in the crib,

and therefore generally the best to discard for our adver. sary, are kings; since a sequence can only be made up to, or as it may be termed, on one side of them; and cannot be carried beyond them. A king is therefore a greater baulk in the crib than the queen. So, again, of an ace,a sequence can only be made from it, and not up to it; and an ace is, therefore, frequently a great baulk to a crib; though in discarding an ace some judgment is required to be exercised, it being often a good card to hold for play; and forming a component part of fifteen, particularly when combined with sixes, sevens, and eights, or with fours and tenth cards.

The cards, then, best adapted to vaulk our antagonist's crib, are, a king with a ten, nine, eight, seven, six, or one; a queen, with a nine, eight, seven, six, or ace, or cards equally distinct, or far off, and therefore certain not to be united in sequence by meeting with any other cards whatever.. Of course, particular hands require particular play, and general principles must give way before their exceptions. "Circumstances alter cases;" throughout this work, as in all similar works, the author writes for what may be called "average hands of cards;" and recommends that play which would be most conducive to success in the largest proportion of events.

Never lay out a knave for your adversary's crib, if you can, with propriety, avoid it; as the probability of the turn-up card being of the same suit as the knave, is 3 to 1 against it. Consequently, it is only 3 to 1 but the returning such knave in your hand gains you a point; whereas, should you discard it to your opponent's crib, it is only 3 to 1 against the chance of its making him a point; hence the probable difference of losing a point by throwing out your knave, is only 3 to 21; or 9 to 7,-that is to say, in laying out a knave for your antagonist's crib, when you could equally keep the same in your hand.-sixteen times -you give way just seven points; it being only 9 to 7, but you give away a point every time you play in this manner; and every single point is of consequence, if contending against a good player. As I just now remarked, there may, of course, occur exceptions to this and every other rule.

The cards which are usually the best to lay out for your own crib, are, two fives, five and six. five and tenth card,

three and two, seven and eight, four and one, nine and six, and similar couples. If you have no similar cards to lay out, put down as close cards as you can; because, by this means, you have the greater chance of either being assisted by the cards laid out by your adversary, or by the turnup; and further, you should uniformly lay out two cards of the same suit for your own crib, in preference, cæteris paribus, to two other cards of the same kind, that are of different suits, as this gives you the probable chance of flushing your crib; whereas, should you lay out two cards of different suits, all gain under the head of a flush is at once destroyed. It is mostly good play, to retain a sequence in hand, in preference to cards less closected; more especially should such sequence be a

and once

more remember, that the probable chance of points from the crib is something nearly approaching to twenty per cent. over the hand. It is therefore indispensably your duty, if you wish to win, to give the lead to your crib at the expense of your hand.

In general, whenever you are able to hold a pair-royal in hand, you should lay out the other two cards, both for your own and your adversary's crib; some few cases, however, excepted. For example, should you hold a pairroyal of any description, along with two fives, it would be highly dangerous to give your antagonist the brace of fives, unless in such a situation of the game that your pairroyal would make you certainly out, having the first show;

or else that your adversary is so nearly home, himself, that the contents of the crib are wholly unimportant. Many other cards are very hazardous to lay out to your adversary's crib, even though you can hold a pair-royal; such as two and three, five and six, seven and eight, and five and tenth card; therefore, should you have such cards combined together, you must pay particular regard to the stage of the game. This caution equally applies to many other cards, and particularly when, the game being nearly over, it happens to be your own deal, and that your opponent is nearly home, or within a moderate show-out. Here then should be especial care taken to retain in hand cards which may enable you to play "off," or wide of your adversary; and thus prevent his forming any seqrence or pair-royal. In similar positions you should endeavor, also, to keep cards that will enable you to have a

good chance of winning the end-hole; which frequently saves the game.

General directions for playing the game scientifi cally.-Never, at any period of the game, make a pair, fifteen, sequence, &c., without glancing your eye first at the relative places of the cribbage-pegs, to know whether you are justified in playing a forward or backward game. I repeat, that on this the whole art may be said to turn, of playing Cribbage scientifically.

To gain the end-hole, or point nearest to thirty-one, is, among professed players, justly esteemed a considerable advantage, and should be proportionately kept in view. By attaining the end-hole yourself, you not only score a point, but save a difference of two points by snatching it from your opponent. In playing for this, there is much scope for judgment.

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Should you hold a three and a two, it is frequently the best play to lead off the three, on the chance of your adversary's playing a tenth card (of which never forget that there are sixteen), making thirteen; when your two drops in," and produces two points for the fifteen. The same principle applies to the leading from a four and an ace, and has this additional advantage, that should you thus succeed in forming fifteen, your opponent can form no sequence from your cards.

Remember, that when your adversary leads a seven or eight, should you make fifteen, you give him the chance of coming in with a six or a nine, and thus gaining three holes against you. Sometimes this would even tend to your advantage, by allowing of your rejoinder with a fourth card in sequence. For instance, your opponent leads an eight, and you make fifteen by answering with a seven; he plays a six, making twenty-one, and scores three for the sequence; but having a nine, or ten, you play it, and score after him. In all such cases, play to the state of your game; for what would be at one time correct, would be, at another, the worst possible play.

To lead from a pair is mostly good; because, should your opponent pair you, you form a pair-royal, making six holes; while the chance of his rejoining with a fourth is too small to be taken into consideration. It would rarely, though, De correct, to lead from a pair of fives.

When your adversary leads a card which you can pair,