exceedingly great; yet the muse is still invoked; and the taste and feeling for such compositions are still awake in the minds of the people, though so little cherished by opportunity, or by the aspect of surrounding nature."

"In all departments of literature, there is a strong disposition among the Icelanders to critical severity; and in theological writings more especially, this severity has occasionally assumed a very rigorous form. A curious instance of this kind occurred about a hundred years ago, when an unfortunate man was publicly whipped, as a punishment for the errors he had committed in a translation of the book of Genesis."

"Before closing this sketch of the literature of Iceland, it will be necessary to say something of the Icelandic Societies, to which a reference has already more than once been made. The first of these was instituted at Copenhagen in 1779, with the professed object of aiding the literature of the island, and bettering the condition of the inhabitants, by the suggestion of improvements in their rural economy. The society, at its first establishment, was composed of only twelve members; but the number was afterwards extended to about a hundred and thirty; comprising all the most learned and intelligent men in Iceland; and, as extraordinary members, many individuals of much eminence on the continent of Europe. Fourteen volumes of transactions have been published by the society; the contents of which are various, comprehending many valuable papers upon the fishery, agriculture, and natural history of Iceland; poetry; historical essays, &c. The principal writers were bishop Finsson; the elder Mr. Stephenson, then governor of the island; Mr. Ericson; Mr. Paulson; Mr. Ketilson, Sysselman of Dalè; and many others of the literary Icelanders, whose names have before been mentioned. These transactions were entirely composed in the Icelandic language, and great attention was paid to the preservation of its purity; two censors being appointed to judge of the style of every essay which was presented for publication."

"The second Icelandic Society was established in the island in 1794; chiefly under the auspices of the chief justice Stephenson, who had been a strenuous advocate for the removal of the former society from Copenhagen. The original number of members was not less than twelve hundred; most of the farmers, as well as the priests and civil officers of the country, being included. The object of the institution was the promotion of knowledge and improvement among the people; and with this view, a fund was provided by the annual contri

bution of a dollar from each member, and devoted to the publication of books, to be distributed among the subscribers."

"Such is the present state of mental cultivation among this singular people. The disparity of their physical and moral circumstances forms an interesting feature equally in the history of literature, and in that of the human species. While the calamities of internal warfare, and the oppression of tyrannical governments, have clouded with ignorance and barbarity countries on which the sun of nature sheds its brightest beams, the possession of peace, of political liberty, and well ordered laws, has given both intellectual and moral exaltation to a community, which has its abode at the very confines of the habitable world."

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Manners, Customs, Condition, and Morals.

"The first visit we paid, after landing on the 8th of May, was to the bishop, Geir Vidalin, who received us with great kindness. He is a good looking man, above the ordinary stature; corpulent, but not unwieldy; with an open countenance, which seems to declare his feelings without disguise. He is an excellent classical scholar, and speaks Latin fluently; and his general knowledge is equal, if not superior, to that of any person in Iceland. Considering the high rank he holds, I was at first sight surprised at the poverty of his dress, as well as that of his habitation. He wore an old thread-bare great coat, over a waistcoat of the same description; and a pair of dark grey pantaloons that had seen better days. I soon found, however, that he was not worse clothed than others who could better afford to be neat, and who had as much leisure to attend to their persons.

"We thought it our duty to pay our respects to Mr. Olaf Stephenson, who has the title of Geheimè Etatsraad, and was formerly governor of the island; and having been informed that he would be glad to see us, we went to his house, which is on the island of Vidöe, about three miles from the town."

"The old gentleman, dressed in the uniform of a Danish colonel of the guards, received us at the door with great politeness, and seemed to be exceedingly gratified by our visit. He ushered us into a large room, furnished with the remains of ancient finery, some prints, portraits, and a number of profile shades, which afforded little relief to the eye while wandering over the damp, decaying walls. The house altogether appeared as if it would not long survive its venerable inhabitant."

"We had no intention of remaining here to dinner; but, on proposing to take leave, we soon perceived that it would give great offence, to withdraw without partaking of his hospitality. Mr. Stephenson spoke affectionately of sir Joseph Banks, who is much and deservedly esteemed in Iceland; and he shewed us, with much apparent satisfaction, some diplomas which he had received from different societies. In due time, the repast which had been prepared, was announced by a good looking girl, dressed in the complete Icelandic costume. The dress of the women is not calculated to shew the person to advantage. The long waist, bunchy petticoats, and the fashion of flattening the bosom as much as possible, together with the extraordinary head-dress, excited rather ludicrous emotions at the first view; but there is a richness in the whole that is pleasing."

·

"On entering the room into which we had at first been introduced, we found a table neatly covered, and a bottle of wine. set down for each person. This alarmed us a little, as we feared that the old gentleman intended, according to the ancient custom of Denmark, to keep wassel.' The only dish on the table was one of sago soup, to which we were helped very liberally. The appearance of a piece of roasted, or rather baked, beef, relieved us considerably; and we submitted, as well as we were able, to receive an unusual supply of a food to which we were accustomed. We had drank a few glasses of wine, when a curious silver cup, large enough to contain half a bottle, was put upon the table. Our host filled it to the brim, and put on the cover. He then held it towards the person who sat next to him, and desired him to take off the cover, and look into the cup; a ceremony intended to secure fair play in filling it; after which he drank our healths, expressing his happiness at seeing us in his house, and his hopes that we would honour him with our company as often as we could. He desired to be excused from emptying the cup, on account of the indifferent state of his health; but we were informed at the same time, that if any one of us should neglect any part of the ceremony, or fail to invert the cup, placing the edge on one of the thumbs as a proof that we had swallowed every drop, the defaulter would be obliged by the laws of drinking to fill the cup again, and drink it off a second time. He then gave the cup to his neighbour, who, having drank it off, put on the cover, and handed it to the person opposite to him. Being filled, the cup was examined by the person whose turn it was to drink next, and thus it went round. In spite of their utmost exertions, the penalty of a second draught was incurred by two of the com

pany. While we were dreading the consequences of having swallowed so much wine, and in terror lest the cup should be sent round again, a dish of cold pancakes, of an oblong form, and covered with sugar, was produced; and after them sago puddings floating in rich cream. It was in vain that we pleaded the incapacity of our stomachs to contain any more; we were obliged to submit to an additional load; when a summons to coffee in an adjoining room, brought us a most welcome relief. Our sufferings, however, were not yet at an end. On first entering the house, I had noticed a very large china tureen on the top of a press; and as it had not been used at dinner, I concluded that it was a mere ornament. We had scarcely finished our coffee, when the young woman who had waited at table came in with this tureen, and set it before us. It was accompanied by some large glasses, each of the size of an ordinary tumbler. I looked at my companions with dismay, and saw their feelings very expressively painted in their countenances. This huge vessel was full of smoking punch; and as there was no prospect of being able to escape, we endeavoured to look cheerful, and accomplish the task required of us. Having at length taken leave, our hospitable friend insisted on attending us to the beach."

"We went to Mr. Frydensberg's to breakfast, between eleven and twelve o'clock, where we found a table covered as if for dinner, having bottles, glasses, &c. upon it. Madame Frydensberg brought in a dish of mutton dressed somewhat in the manner of currie. It is customary in Iceland, either for the lady of the house, or one of her daughters, to place the dishes on the table, and to remove them, the plates, knives and forks, &c.; though sometimes the housekeepers, who are on a very familiar footing with their employers, perform these offices. There are no men-servants. After the currie, or ragout, came roasted mutton, cheese, and bread and butter. After a few glasses of wine, coffee was served, and concluded the entertainment; when all rose up, and bowed to the lady."

in

"On the 15th we gave a ball to the ladies of Reikiavik, and the neighbourhood. The company began to assemble about 9 o'clock. We were shewn into a small low roofed room, which were a number of men; but to my surprise I saw no females. We soon found them, however, in one adjoining, where it is the custom for them to wait till their partners go to hand them out."

"We found ourselves extremely aukward in dancing what the ladies were pleased to call English country dances. The

music, which came from a solitary ill scraped fiddle, accompanied by the rumbling of the same half rotten drum that had summoned the high court of justice, and by the jingling of a rusty triangle, was to me utterly unintelligible.”

"When allowed to breathe a little, we had an opportunity of remarking some singularities in the state of society and manners, among the Danes of Reikiavik. While unengaged in the dance, the men drink punch, and walk about with tobacco pipes in their mouths, spitting plentifully on the floor. The unrestrained evacuation of saliva seems to be a fashion all over Iceland; but whether the natives learned it from the Danes, or the Danes from the natives, we did not ascertain."

"A day was spent in examining the rocks of the island of Vidoe; and we again dined with the old governor. We now found that the young woman who had attended at table on our former visit, was his niece; and that an elderly female who had appeared at the same time, was his sister-in-law. We had sent some trifling present to these ladies; and, on this account, as soon as we entered the house, it became necessary to submit to the customary salute denoting the gratitude of those who receive presents. On many occasions, we could well have dispensed with the ceremony; and our talents were often exercised in contriving means of evasion or escape. On meeting after a short absence, and on taking leave, the Icelanders take each other by the right hand, remove their hats with the left, and stroking back their long hair, kiss each other with much apparent satisfaction."

"At Krisuvik there is a farm-house with a few cottages. It was proposed at first that the party should occupy the church, but, on examining it, we preferred our tent. The length of the church, which is constructed of wood, is eighteen feet, the breadth eight feet, and the height, from the floor to the joist, five feet eight inches. Near the door, in the inside, is suspended a bell, large enough to make an intollerable noise in so small an apartment. About ten feet from the door is the division between the rest of the church and the altar. The space between this and the door was occupied by large chests, filled with the goods and chattels of the farmer, many of which were also piled under the roof. The pulpit, raised about two feet, stood in a corner on one side of the division; and it was evident that, if the priest were a man of ordinary size, his audience would be totally eclipsed from his view, and that he would have to address himself to lumber and stock fish, in the loft. There were seats before the pulpit that, with a little