der feathers, whence it derives its name, and upon the breast, of both male and female, is a pendant of feathers, hanging to the length of three inches. They are, like all the Chatterers, fruit eaters. They are pretty common upon an island a few days' sail above the Barra of the Rio Negro, but they are not found any where in that region in such flocks as others of the Chatterer family. The Indian name for these birds is Urumuimbu, and the Tauçha informed us, that they built in trees, and laid white eggs.

During the day, we crossed from one island to another, and at last, were again upon the northern side.

Early the next morning, the 3rd, we were overtaken by a small canoe pulled by eight men, and some of our party were delighted to discover in the proprietor an old acquaintance. After mutual compliments and inquiries, the canoe shot past, and we soon lost sight of her. While we were looking out for a place whereon to build our customary fire, the smoke of some encampment ahead caught our eyes, and directing our course thither, we found our friend of daybreak, nicely settled upon a little clearing which he had made, under the cacao trees of a deserted plantation. He politely made room for us, and sent us coffee from his own boat.

Not long after noon, we stopped at a house, where a number of Indians were collected about a Periecu, which they had just caught. This was the fish whose dried slabs had been our main diet for the last few weeks, and we embraced the opportunity to take a good look at so useful a species. He was about six feet long, with a large head and wide mouth, and his thick scales, large as dollars, were beautifully shaded with flesh color. These fish often attain greater size, and, at certain seasons, are very abundant, especially in the lakes. They are taken with lances, cut into slabs of half an inch thickness, and dried in the sun, after being properly salted. It is as great a blessing to the Province of Pará, as cod or herring to other countries, constituting the main diet of three-fourths of the people. We bought, for eight cents, half this fish, and for six more, a Tambaki, weighing about ten pounds. This is considered the finest

fish in this part of the river, and resembles, in shape, the Black Fish of the North.

Not far above this sitio, was the village of Serpa, and a turn of the river presented it to us in all the glory of half a dozen thatched houses. So aristocratic an establishment as our galliota was not to come up without causing a proper excitement, and, one after another, the leisurely villagers made their appearance upon the hill, until a respectable crowd stood waiting to usher us. Hardly had we touched the shore, when a deputation boarded us for the news, and we were forced to spend half an hour in detailing the city values of cacao, and fish, and tobacco, and the hundred other articles of traffic. Indeed, this had been our catechism ever since we entered the river, and as we were profoundly ignorant of the state of the Pará market, we had been obliged to invent a list of prices for the general circulation.

The bank, upon which the village stands, rises abruptly about fifty feet above high water mark, but fortunately, in one point, a broad, natural gully allows easier ascent, and, up this, we made our way. Our principal business in stopping here, was to obtain men, if possible, part of ours being lazy, and part disabled from one cause or another. Moreover, the river current above Serpa flows with a vastly accelerated swiftness, rendering more men almost indispensable. We directed our way to the house of Senhor Manoel Jochin, the most influential man of the village, although not a public officer. Nor had we far to go, for Serpa has been shorn of its glory, and dilapidation and decay meet one at every turn. The Senhor was sitting at his door, in earnest conversation with the Colonel and the Juiz de Paz, and received us not cavalierly, but as became a cavalier. For Senhor Manoel had been a soldier in his day, and, although on the shady side of sixty, still looked a noble representative of those hardy old Brazilians who have spent their lives on the frontiers. We had heard of him below, as the captor of Edoardo, one of the rebel Presidents of the Revolution, and looked upon him with interest. For this exploit he had been offered a high commission in the army, but he preferred living in retirement here.

In the evening, we sat down to turtle and tambaki with the dignitaries before mentioned, and as our style of supper varied somewhat from our former experience, I trust I shall be excused for entering a little more into particulars. By the side of each plate, was a pile of farinha upon the table, and in the centre, stood a large bowl of caldo, or gravy. Upon sitting down, each one, in turn, took up a handful of his farinha, and dropped it into the bowl. This, afterwards, was the general store, from which each helped himself with his own spoon, as he listed. Water was not absolutely interdicted, but it was looked upon with scarcely concealed disapprobation, and its absence was compensated by cashaça. There was no limit to hob-nobbing and toasting, and our jolly Colonel at last concluded with a stentorian song.

The Senhor had been a frequent voyager upon the Madeira, and gave us interesting accounts of his adventures upon that river. What was quite as agreeable, however, was a collection of shells which he had picked up along its shores, and of which he begged our acceptance. One of these was a remarkably large one of the Ampullaria canaliculata (Lam.), which was used as a family cashaça goblet. The others were Hyria avicularis, and Anadonta esula. The valves of the Anadontas had been used as skimmers, in the Senhor's kitchen.

We were told that there was to be a dance, to which our company would be acceptable, particularly if we brought along a few bottles of cashaça. Now an Indian dance was a novelty, and the insinuating invitation worked its effect. Taking each a quart bottle under his arm, we strolled to the scene of action, and were politely ushered into one of the larger houses, where a crowd of men and girls had collected. The room was illuminated by burning wicks of cotton, which were twisted about small sticks, and set into pots of andiroba oil. Around the walls, were benches, upon which sat a score of Indian girls, dressed in white, with the ever accompanying flowers, and vanilla perfume. The men were standing about, in groups, awaiting the commencement of the exercises, and dressed in shirts and trousers. One, distinguished beyond the

rest, by a pair of shoes, and a colored handkerchief over his shoulders, was the major domo, and kindly relieved us of our bottles, allowing us to stand ourselves among the others, as we might. A one-sticked drum soon opened the ball, assisted by a wire-stringed guitar, and for a little time, they divinised on their own account, until they were pronounced safe for the evening. Two gentlemen then stepped up to their selected partners, and gracefully intimated a desire for their assistance, which was favorably responded to. The partners stood opposite each other, and carelessly shuffled their feet, each keeping slow time, by the snapping of their fingers. The man advanced, then retreated, now moved to one side, and then to the other. Now approaching close to the fair one, he made a low bow, looking all sorts of expressions, as though he was acting a love pantomime; to which his partner responded by violently snapping her fingers, and shuffling away as for dear life. Away goes the lover two or three yards to the right, profoundly bowing; then as far to the left, and another bow. Getting visibly excited, up again he advances, going through spasmodic operations to get louder snaps from his fingers. The fair inamorata is evidently rising. Around she whirls two or three times; he spins in the opposite direction, and just as he is getting up an attitude of advance, out steps another lady, taking his partner's place. This is paralyzing, but the lover is too polite not to do a little for civility, when some gentleman steps before him, taking the burden from his feet, and leaving him to follow his partner to the well earned seat, where he solaces his feelings by a long pull at the bottle, and then passes it to the lady, who requires sympathy similar in degree and quantity. The dancing continued, with no variation of time or figure, until the cashaça gave out, which was the signal for a breaking up, all who could preserve their equilibrium, escorting their equally fortunate partners, and those who could not, remaining until a little sleep restored their ailing faculties.

CHAPTER XIV.

Fourth of July at Serpa-Lake Saracá-An accession-Pic-nic-An opossum-Narrow passage-Swallow-tailed hawks-Sitio of the Delegarde-River Madeira-Village of our Taucha-Appearance of his party on arriving at home-The old rascal-Bellbird-Stop at a sitio, and reception-Orioles-A cattle sitio-Swift current-Enter the Rio Negro-Arrive at Barra.

AN unclouded sky was awaiting the sun of the 4th, as we strolled along the river bank, at Serpa, recalling the clustering associations connected with the day, and thinking of the present occupations of friends, at home. It was a magnificent place for fire-works and tar barrels, and that beautiful island opposite, was the very spot for a pic-nic. We had quite a mind to have a celebration on our own account, for the purpose of demonstrating to the benighted Amazonians how glorious a thing it is to call one's self free and independent; but, alas! our powder was precious, and barrels of tar not to be had for love or money. The sun peeped over the tree tops, flooding in beauty the wild forest, and gilding the waters that rushed and foamed like maddened steeds. The birds were making the air vocal with a hundred different notes, and fishes were constantly bouncing above the water in glee. And was it a fancy, that one red-coated fellow, as he tossed himself up, greeted us with a "viva" to the Independence of America?

Serpa was a pretty place, after all; and our impressions of the night before, had been formed after a long day and a scorching sun. And the people of Serpa were a happy people, and we almost wished that our names were in their parish register. The river teemed with the best of fish, and half an hour's pleasure would supply the wants of a week. Farinha grew almost spontaneously, and fruits quite so. The people