does the town prosper. At Serpa, every thing appeared careless and disorderly; at Villa Nova, on the contrary, a change was evidently taking place for the better, and even since we had passed up the river, the vicinity had undergone an entire transformation. The soldiers had been employed in cutting down the bushes that encroached upon the town, in pulling down and removing the crazy hovels, in building handsome fences about the houses of the officers, and in clearing and repairing the road leading to the lake.

Near our house, a school was in daily session, and as the path to the woods ran directly by it, we took frequent peeps at the little fellows within. The master was a deputy, a boy of sixteen, and a flock of children, of all colors, were gathered around him, all talking or studying at the top of their voices. Here these future statesmen learned reading, and writing, and a little arithmetic. The Brazilians, generally, are very neat in their chirography. The government pays the salary of the head teacher, or Professor, as he is styled. In Villa Nova, his salary was one hundred and fifty milrees annually, from which he deputized as cheaply as possible. This Professor, Senhor Amarelles, who, by the way, was one of the dignitaries of the place, concentrating in himself some half a dozen offices, chanced to be in possession of a counterfeit note; and this, he desired the shopkeeper of the place to palm off upon us, as we, being strangers, he said, would not know the difference. Very dubious morality, for a schoolmaster.

Apropos, there were an unusual number of Vultures about Villa Nova, the Cathartes atratus of Wilson; and indeed, this species is seen more or less, every where upon the river. At Pará, particularly, they are seen by hundreds, about the slaughter yard, and with them may occasionally be seen a red-headed species, which we supposed to be the common Turkey Buzzard of the North, C. aura, but which, it has been suggested, may more probably be the Cathartes Burrovianus of Cassin. Unfortunately, we did not preserve specimens of this bird. There is a third species, the King of the Vultures, Sarcoramphus papa, or as it is called in Brazil, Urubu-tinga. The termination tinga, in the Lingoa Geral, means king, and this bird well de

serves the name, from its beauty and superior strength. If a King Vulture makes its appearance where a number of the other species are collected about carrion, the latter instinctively give way, and stand meekly around, while their sovereign leisurely gorges himself. These birds are not very common upon the Amazon, and we never had an opportunity of shooting them, but several times, we observed them circling, in pairs, over the forest. Senhor Henriquez informed us, at the Barra, that they were not unfrequently taken alive, particularly if a putrid snake, of which they are fond, be exposed to them. A noose is arranged to fall over their heads, and the caught bird is transformed from a wild marauder, into a peaceable citizen. At Pará, they are highly valued. We saw a pair in perfect plumage, which were presented to Mr. Norris, and felt nothing of the disgust inspired by the other, common species. Their bare necks were beautifully marked with red and black, orange and yellow, and were surrounded near the base by a ruffle of feathers. Their breasts were white, and the general color of the upper parts, was a light ashy gray. These birds were very active, moving about the yard with a leap rather than a step.

At last, upon Saturday, the 8th, the Commandante returned successful, and by five o'clock in the afternoon we were ready to bid a glad adieu to Villa Nova. During our stay, Senhor Bentos had been perpetually studying ways of obliging us, and, at last, he overwhelmed us with all kinds of gifts, even to a hammock and towels. He killed a cow for us, packed up two baskets of chickens, sent down a pair of his pet land turtles, a supply of farinha and oranges, bought or begged a curious parrot from the Rio Tapajos, and added to it all the parrots which he had about the house, and even a basket of half-fledged doves. Moreover, after we had pushed from the shore, and descended several miles, a montaria overtook us with one of the Senhor's house servants, whom he had sent with orders to accompany us, as far as we wished, and to attend to our cooking. When the hour for parting came, we found the good old man in his hammock, the tears coursing down his cheeks, and apparently in great distress. He threw his arms about our

necks, and sobbed like a child, and it was only after an interval of several minutes, that he let us go, loaded with a hundred blessings.

Our men were nearly all of the tribe of Gentios, the best upon the river. Among them were two free negroes, who had been admitted to the rights of tribeship. To look after them, the Commandante sent also a corporal and a sergeant; the former of whom was to be pilot, and the latter, a gentleman of leisure.

During the preceding night, Pedro had been seduced away by a white man, who was engaged in fishing, in some of the lakes. Pedro had seen quite enough of civilization, and longed for his woods and freedom again. We had found him one of the best natured fellows in the world, and there was no fault in him, except his inquisitiveness, which was natural enough. He was always for trying on our hats, or using our brushes and combs, or some similar liberty, and there was no use in attempting to explain the impropriety of the thing.

Our load was now considerably increased. The few turtle with which we had started from Barra, were reinforced to the number of fifteen, and filled all the space beneath the cabin floor, and a good share of the tolda. In the bow, some trader had stowed several pots of balsam, and had had the assurance to further impose upon our good will, by demanding a receipt for the same, which he did not get.

Early in the morning of the 10th, we passed Obidos. Sailing as we did, in the middle of the channel, the shores appeared to fine advantage, and yet, we could obtain but a very indifferent idea of the country, or of its productions, at such a distance. We had hoped to collect a number of birds and plants, whose localities we had marked in ascending, but we found it impossible to stop, even could we have recognized the proper places. We could only take counsel for the future, and resolve, that if ever we enjoyed another similar opportunity, we would not thus defer increasing our collection to a more convenient season.

Towards night, we stopped at the same high point, at which we had breakfasted, the second morning from Santarem. Now

we were distant but six hours from that place. Here, by the deserted house, we found an abundance of oranges and limes. We shot a Caracara Eagle, Polyborus Braziliensis, a bird interesting to us, from its being also a resident of the United States. The Indians called it the Caracara Gavion. It is one of the smaller eagles, and somewhat allied to the vultures. We had often seen them, sitting upon trees not far from the water, and they seemed little shy at our advance. We afterwards saw them on Marajo, and, undoubtedly, they are common throughout the whole country. The Hawk tribe of birds was always exceedingly numerous, many being beautifully marked, and of all sizes, down to a species smaller than our Sparrow-hawk. We had shot many varieties, and shot at as many more.

Our men required no urging, and we found a vast change from the lazy Muras. The sergeant regulated their hours of labor, and we were unconcerned passengers. They were all young, and more inclined to frolic than other Indians that we had seen.

The sergeant had with him a curious musical instrument. It consisted of a hollow reed six feet in length, in one end of which was fitted a smaller joint, extending a few inches. In this was a blowing hole; and from the whole affair, our amateur produced sounds much like those of a bugle, playing a number of simple tunes. The men passed half their time in singing, and two of them, who seemed to be leaders, often composed a burden of their own, of the wonders they expected to see in the city, to which the others joined in chorus.

We inquired of them the name of the Amazon in the Indian tongue. It was Pára-na-tinga, King of Waters.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Arrive at Santarem-Negro stealing-Pass Monte Alegre-Strong winds-Usefulness of the Sun-bird-Family government-Reformation in the Paroquets-Low shore-A Congress-Otters-Enter the Xingu-Gurupa--Leave the Amazon--Assai palmsA friend lost and a friend gained-Braves-Our water jars-Crossing the bay of Limoeiro-Seringa trees-A lost day--Town of Santa Anna-Igaripé Merim--Enter the Moju-Manufacture of rubber shoes-Anatto-Arrival at Pará.

WE arrived at Santarem about midnight, and anchored off the house of Captain Hislop, waiting for the morning. The Captain was absent, but had left orders to place his house at our disposal. Therefore, without further ceremony, we took possession, and breakfasted, once more, upon the delightful Santarem beef. We called upon our friend Senhor Louis, and were gratified to find that he had not forgotten us, in our absence, but had made for us a good collection of insects, and other matters, in which we were interested. He pressed us much to protract our stay, as did Mr. William Golding, an English resident, who called upon us; but our loss of time at Villa Nova obliged us to make all speed to Pará.

The large black monkey, which had been given us two months before, and whose society we had anticipated with mingled emotions, had gone by the board, about a week previous, "laying down and dying like a man," as the old lady said. To console our bereavement somewhat, she sent down to the galliota, a pair of young, noisy, half-fledged parrots, and a Pavon, or Sun-bird. Senhor Louis added a basket of young paroquets, and a pair of land turtles, and Mr. Golding a pretty maraca duck. Thus we were to have no lack of objects for sympathy or entertainment, for the remainder of our voyage.