the increase of a tame herd once wrecked upon a shoal near by. Here the captain offered to land us for an afternoon's sport, but the wind was fresh, and we were too near Jungcal for any such enticements. Late in the evening, we crossed the bar, passing into a small igaripé, and, in a few minutes, were moored off the cattle-pen. Once more we slept quietly, undisturbed by surfs and tossings.

The morning dawned in all the splendor of a tropical summer, and long before the sun's rays had gilded the tree tops, we were luxuriating in the fresh, invigorating breeze, and admiring the beautiful vicinity, that wanted not even the sunlight to enchant us. The ebbing tide had left exposed a large flat, extending an eighth of a mile opposite the cattle-pen, and lost, at perhaps, twice that distance, in the woods above. Here and there a tiny stream crept slowly down, as if loth to leave the beautiful quiet island for the rough waters beyond. Directly at our side, an impervious cane-brake shot up its tasseled spires, rustling in the wind; while in every other direction, was piled the dark, massive foliage of tropical shrubs and trees. Above, and beyond reach of harm, a number of Great Blue Herons were stalking solemnly about, and near them, a company of Spoonbills and White Egrets displayed to us their delicate tints, in the increasing light. Opposite, a constantly gathering flock of large White Herons were intently watching our movements, as though balancing in their own minds the chances of danger, with the prospect of no breakfast, and a hungry family at home.

But the loveliest views will tire, in time, and despite the interest we felt in the position of things about us, when hour after hour passed away, and the gentle twilight became the fierce morning heat, while the scarce perceptibly ebbing tide would in no wise speed its movements in our behalf, we began to feel somewhat like prisoners, in durance. So, to vary the scene, we ventured, by the kindly aid of some tottering poles, to gain the shore, and started to explore a little, landward. But the country soon opened out into a campo, and the baked clay, uncovered with verdure, and deeply indented by the hoofs of cattle, made walking out of the question. Therefore,

we were fain to turn back again, and perched upon a fence top, attempted resignation.

When the tide did turn, it made amends for all sluggishness; dashing furiously in, with a seven mile velocity, instantly flooding the shoals, and filling the channel. Quickly we were in the boat, and hurrying towards Jungcal, unaided by the paddle, save in keeping the course. The birds which had been feeding had gathered themselves hastily up, and now sat perched upon the overhanging trees, gazing down, as if they did not half comprehend the mystery of such a sudden wateriness, although daily, for their lives long, they had thus been shortened of their morning's meal. A pair of King Vultures, Urubutingas, were sailing overhead, conspicuous for their white shoulders and glossy plumage. Two miles, quickly sped, brought us to Jungcal, a small settlement of some half dozen houses, residences of the overseers and cattle drivers. We were greeted as old friends, and being just in time for breakfast, sat down be not startled, companions of our heretofore wanderings, who have heard us discourse upon the virtues of aboriginal diet, and partaken with us of monkey and sloth, parrots, cow-fishes, and land turtles sat down to a steak not of the exquisitely flavored victim of the Fulton Market, nor of the delicious colt-flesh of the Patagonian gourmand; but to one more exquisite, more delicious. Ah! ye young alligators, now comprehended we why chary Nature had encased ye in triple mail.

One of our objects in visiting Jungcal, was to see a rookery of Ibises and Spoonbills in the neighborhood; but as the day had so far advanced, we determined to postpone an excursion thither until the morning. Meanwhile, we amused ourselves in exploring the vicinity, and in looking over the beautiful collection of bird-skins, belonging to Mr. Hauxwell, an English collector, whom we were agreeably surprised to meet here. It was interesting to find so many of the water-birds of the United States, common here also, and to recognize in the herons, the rails, the gallinules, the ibises, the shore-birds, et multi alii, so many old acquaintances, in whose society we had, long ago, whiled away many a delighted hour.

Upon one side of the houses, the bamboos formed a dense hedge, but elsewhere, in every direction, stretched a vast campo, unmarked by tree or bush, save where the fringed stream but partially redeemed the general character. A few horses were feeding about, the last remnant of vast herds that once roamed the island, but which have disappeared, of late years, by a contagious pestilence; and which, judging from the specimens we saw, were any thing but the fiery coursers, described as herding on the, perhaps, more congenial plains, to the North and South.

Upon the margin of a small pond, close by, a number of Scarlet Ibises were feeding, so tame, from all absence of molestation, as to allow of near approach. Terra-terras were screaming about, and, at a distance, stalked a pair of huge white birds, known in the island as Tuyuyus, Mycteria Americana. We were exceedingly desirous to obtain one of these birds, but they were wary, and kept far beyond even rifle-shot. They are not uncommon upon the campos, and are occasionally seen domesticated in the city. A young one, which we had previously seen in the garden of the Palace, stood between four and five feet from the ground. When full grown, the Tuyuyu is upwards of six feet in height. Its neck is bare of feathers, and for two thirds of its length from above, black: the remainder is of a dark red. Its bill is about fifteen inches long, and by its habit of striking the mandibles together, a loud, clattering noise is produced. About every house were pens in which were scores of young ibises and spoonbills, which had been brought from the rookery, for the purpose of selling in Pará. They readily became tame, and well repaid the care of the negroes. Brought up for the same purpose, were parrots, paroquets, blackbirds, larks, and egrets; besides a mischievous coati, who was every where but where he should have been. Towards night, vast flocks of various water-birds came flying inland, attracting attention by their gaudy coloring and noisy flight.

CHAPTER XXI.

Description of Marajo-Cattle-Tigers-Alligators-Snakes--Antas-Wild ducksScarlet Ibises-Roseate Spoonbills-Wood Ibises-Other birds-Island of MixianaIndian burial places-Caviana-Macapá-Bore or Pororoca-Leave Jungeal for the rookery-A sail among the trees-Alligators-The rookery-Return-An alligator's nest-Adieu to Jungcal-Violence of the tide-Loading cattle-Voyage to Pará.

THE length of the Island of Marajo is about one hundred and twenty miles; its breadth averages from sixty to eighty. Much of it is well wooded, but far the larger part is campo, covered during the wet season with coarse, tall grass. At that time, the whole island is little more than a labyrinth of lakes. In summer, the superabundant waters are drained by numerous igaripés, and, rain rarely falling, this watery surface is exchanged for a garden of beauty, in some parts, and into a desert, upon the campos. The population of the island is large, consisting mostly of Indians and half-breeds. Some of the towns, however, are of considerable size, but most of the inhabitants are scattered along the coast and upon the igaripés. Four hundred thousand cattle roam over the campos, belonging to various proprietors, the different herds being distinguishable by peculiar marks, or brands. The estate of which Jungcal forms part, numbers thirty thousand cattle, and a great number of Indians and blacks are employed in their care, keeping them together, driving them up at proper seasons to be marked, and collecting such as are wanted for exportation to the city. These men become extremely attached to this wild life, and are a fearless, hardy race, admirable horsemen, and expert with the lasso. When horses abounded, it was customary to drive the marketable cattle towards the Pará side of the island, whence transmission to the city was

Great numbers of keep up with the herd, name is applied without The black tiger is seen common of all. Neither

easy; but, at present, they are shipped from Jungcal, or other places still more remote, thus causing great waste of time, and ruining the quality of the beef. The cattle are of good size, but not equal to those of the South. young cattle, and old ones unable to are destroyed by the "tigres," which much precision to different species. occasionally; the Felis onça is most of these is known to attack man; and in their pursuit, the islanders exhibit great fearlessness and address, never hesitating to attack them when driven to a tree, armed with a tresádo fastened to. a pole. At other times, they overtake them upon the campos, running them down with horses, and lassoing them. Once thus caught, the tiger has no escape. He is quickly strangled, his legs are tied, and, thrown over the horse's back like a sack of meal, he arrives at the hut of his captor. Here a dash of water revives him, but his efforts to escape are futile. An Onça taken in this manner, was brought to Pará for Mr. Campbell. He was strangled both on being taken on and off the canoe, and after being revived, was marched upon his fore legs through the streets, two men holding each a hind leg, and others guiding him by the collar upon his neck. This animal was afterwards brought to New-York by Capt. Appleton. Frequently, young tigers are exposed for sale in the market, and one of these was our fellow passenger in the Undine, upon our return. We read in works of Natural History, most alarming accounts of the fierceness of the Brazilian felines, but as a Spanish gentleman remarked to us, of the Jaguar, "those were ancient Jaguars, they are not so bad now-a-days."

The cattle have another enemy in the alligators, who seem to have concentrated in Marajo from the whole region of the Amazon, swarming in the lagoons and igaripés. There are two species of these animals, one having a sharp mouth, the other a round one. The former grow to the length of about seven feet only, and are called Jacaré-tingas, or King Jacarés. This is the kind eaten. The other species is much larger, often being seen twenty feet in length, and we were assured by Mr.