verandah, and, in his night-gown, bade us welcome. He was a confidence-inspiring old gentleman, with his short, stout body, and twinkling eyes, and a chuckling laugh that kept his fat sides in perpetual motion, belying, somewhat, his tell-tale gray hairs, and his high-sounding title of Justicia de Paz.

The Senhor did not forget the necessities of early travellers. A little black boy brought around fresh water for washing, and, in a trice, breakfast was smoking on the table, our host doing the honors with beaming face, and night-gown doffed.

This was the first decidedly Brazilian country house that we had visited, and a description of it may not be uninteresting. It was of one story, covering a large area, and distinguished, in front, by a deep verandah. The frame of the house, was of upright beams, crossed by small poles, well fastened together by withes of sepaw. A thick coat of clay, entirely covered this, both within and without, hardened by exposure into stone. The floors were of the same hard material, and in front of the hammocks, were spread broad reed mats, answering well the purpose of carpets. Few and small windows were necessary, as the inmates of the house passed most of the day in the open air, or in the verandah, where hammocks were suspended for lounging, or for the daily siesta. The roof was of palm thatch, beautifully made, like basket work in neatness, and enduring for years. The dining table stood in the back verandah, and long benches were placed by its sides, as seats. Back of the house, and entirely distinct, was a covered shed, used for the kitchen and other purposes. Any number of little negroes, of all ages and sizes, and all naked, were running about, clustering around the table as we ate, watching every motion with eyes expressive of fun and frolic, and as comfortably at home as could well be imagined. Pigs, dogs, chickens and ducks assumed the same privilege, notwithstanding the zealous efforts of one little ebony, who seemed to have them in his especial charge. Do his best, he could not clear them all out from under the table at the same time. They knew their rights. But these little inconveniences one soon becomes accustomed to, and regards them as matters of course. The house stood in a grove, and round about, for some distance,

what had been a cultivated plantation was growing up to forest, the Senhor having turned his attention to the seringa. Scattered here and there, were neat looking houses of the blacks, many of whom were about, and all as fat and happy as their master. It was amusing to see the little fellows, crammed full of farinha, and up to any mischief, come capering about the Senhor, evidently considering him the best playmate on the premises. He enjoyed their frolics exceedingly, and with a word or a motion would set them wild with glee. It is this universally kind relation between master and slaves in Brazil, that robs slavery of its horrors, and changes it into a system of mutual dependence and good will.

We strolled about the woods several hours, shooting birds and squirrels, or collecting plants: Some of the air plants found here produced flowers of more exquisite beauty than we ever met elsewhere, particularly, a variety of Stanhopea, which bore a large, white, bell-shaped flower. This we succeeded in transporting to New-York, and it is now in the green-house of Mr. Hogg, together with many other plants of our collecting. Under his care, they promise to renew the beauty of their native woods. We engaged a score of little hands to pick up the shells of the B. haemastoma, which in some places strewed the ground. Why so many empty shells were there, it was impossible to understand. The Senhor asserted that the animals vacated their shells yearly. A shot an armadillo in the path, which was served up for our dinner. The flesh resembled. in appearance and taste, young pork.

In the afternoon, rain commenced pouring, and we were obliged to take to our hammocks in the verandah, amusing ourselves as we might. All night long, the rain continued, and to such a degree, that it was found impossible to collect the sap of the seringa. Greatly to our disappointment, therefore, we were obliged to return ungratified in the main object of our visit, although in every other sense, we had been richly repaid. We had, afterwards, opportunities of observing the manufacture of shoes, which, in its proper place, will be described.

Why rubber should be designated by the barbarous name of caoutchouc, I cannot tell. Throughout the province of Pará, its home, it is universally called seringa, a far more elegant, and pronounceable appellation, certainly.

On our way down the river, we saw the nose of an alligator protruding from the water, as he swam up the current. These animals very rarely are met in these streams, and indeed, throughout the whole lower Amazon region, excepting in the islands at the mouth of the river, where they abound.

While absent upon this excursion, Mr. Bradley, an Irishman, who trades upon the upper Amazon, arrived at Mr. Norris's, bringing many singular birds and curiosities of various kinds. One of the former; was a young Harpy Eagle, a most ferocious looking character, with a harpy's crest, and a beak and talons in correspondence. He was turned loose into the garden, and before long, gave us a sample of his powers. With erected crest, and flashing eyes, uttering a frightful shriek, he pounced upon a young ibis, and, quicker than thought, had torn his reeking liver from his body. The whole animal world below there, was wild with fear. The monkeys scudded to a hiding-place, and parrots, herons, ibises, and mutuns, with all the hen tribe that could muster the requisite feathers, sprang helter-skelter over the fences, some of them never to be reclaimed.

A less formidable venture was a white monkey, pretty nearly equal, in his master's estimation, to most children, and some adults. Nick had not been with us long, before he was upon the top of the house, and refused all solicitations to come down. It was of no use to pursue him. Moving slowly off, as though he appreciated the joke, he would at last perch upon some inaccessible point, and to the moving entreaties of his master, would reply by the applied thumb to nose, and the monkey jabber of "no, you don't." At other times, when there was no danger of sudden surprises, he amused his leisure by running over all the roofs in the block, raising the tiles, and peering down into the chambers, to the general dismay. At length, as fair means would not do, foul must; and Nick re

ceived a discharge from a gun loaded with corn.

But some

where upon the roof, he obtained a rag of cloth, and holding it before him, he would peep over the top, ready to dodge the flash. It would not do; we gave Nick up as lost; but of his own accord, he, at last, descended, and submitted to du

rance.

CHAPTER VIII.

Leave Pará for Vigia-Boatmen-Inland passage-Egrets and herons-Stop at sugar plantation-Cupuassu-Mangroves-Insolence of pilot-Vigia-Arrival at Sr. Godinho's-Reception--The Campinha and its scenery--Sporting--Parrots-Employes--Sunbird-Boat-bill-Tinami—Iguana lizard—Sugar cane-Mill-Slaves-Leave the Campinha-Kingfishers-Go below for Ibises-Sand-flies-Return to Pará-A pet animal.

SOON after Mr. Bradley's arrival, Dr. Costa, the chief judge of the district of the Rio Negro, also arrived in Pará, upon his way to Rio Janeiro, and learning that we desired to visit the towns upon the Amazon, very kindly offered us his galliota and Indians for that purpose. So tempting an offer allowed of no hesitation, but as Mr. Bradley was to be in readiness to make the same journey, in a few days, we determined to await his convenience, and meanwhile, to make a short excursion to Vigia. This town is about fifty miles below, near the junction of a small tide stream with the Grand Pará. As the direct passage down the river offered little of interest, and, moreover, at this still squally season, was somewhat hazardous in a small canoe, we determined on the inland course, winding about among the islands, and requiring, perhaps, double the time.

We left Pará, on the first of May, in the same canoe that carried us to Magoary, and with the same negroes whom we had heretofore employed. These fellows, by long acquaintance, assisted by a modicum of their own good nature, and a due sense of our generosity, had moulded themselves pretty much to our wishes. Unmerited oblivion ought not yet to overtake these good companions of our wanderings, and who knows but that a charcoal sketch of their lineaments and characteristics, may discover them to the notice of some other travelers, who may hereafter have like necessities with ourselves. And