first, our round-faced, jolly-looking, well-conditioned Faustino; somewhat less a beauty, perhaps, than Nature intended, by reason of undisguisable tracings of small-pox. Yet many a worse failing might be amply redeemed by the happy smile that ever lightened up his coal-black countenance, particularly, when enlivened by the slightest possible infusion of cashaça, which, as with the Rev. Mr. Stiggins, is his weakness. Faustino is a famous story-teller, and enacts his own heroes with a dramatic effect that is often very amusing. He is gifted in song too; and many a night, have his sweet catches softened our hard couch, and hushed us to sleep.

Faustino's companero, doubtless, once claimed a name proper; but long since, it seems to have been absorbed by the more distinguishing and emphatic designation of Checo, which in this country, signifies "small," a name by no means inapt. A Greek proverb says, "there is grace in the small;" but Checo has been a soldier, and now Checo's right eye is cocked for the enemy, and his left has an expressive squint toward the remote thicket. Nor do his eyes belie him, doubtless, for though he can wear out the night with his adventures in the southern provinces, no scar disfigures his anteriors or posteriors, as he sits glistening in the sun, naked as the day he was born. But Checo is faithful, and abhors Cashaça.

Besides these two, we were forced to take a pilot, on account of the intricacy of the passage, and, therefore, a lazy, villainous-looking mixture of Brazilian and Indian, sat at the helm ; while a boy, like a monkey, whom he brought on board for what he could steal, was annoying us perpetually.

and

As there were no occupants of the cabin but Amyself, we had a comfortable allowance of room, wherein to stretch ourselves: and about us, in ship-shape order, upon the cabin sides, were piled our baggage, implements, and provisions; among which latter, farinha, bread, and molasses predominated. Knives and forks, spoons and plates, completed the furniture of our cuisine; and our table-cloth was a Turkish rug, whose more legitimate office it was to "feather our nests" at night.

Before dark, we had left the river, and starlight found us

ascending a stream, in no wise distinguished in the character of its scenery from those which I have heretofore described; and yet, perpetually interesting from the ever new views that constant windings presented, and which required neither sunlight nor moonlight to cause us to appreciate their loveliness. With the changing tide, we anchored, and turned in for the night. It was amusing always to observe with what indifference our boatmen would stretch themselves out upon the seats, unprotected, in any way, from rain or dew, and drop at once into a profound sleep, ready, at an instant's warning, to start again to the oars. The pilot had brought along a hammock, which he swung between the masts, high above the others' heads; thus obtaining a situation that might have been envied by his masters, had not frequent acquaintance with hard resting-places somewhat weakened their sensibilities.

Some hours before daybreak, we were again under way; and the first glimpse of light found us exchanging the cabin for the deck, where, guns in hand, we planted ourselves, ready to take advantage of any unsuspicious Egrets that might be feeding upon the muddy bank. These Egrets, or Garças, as they term them in Brazil, are small, and of a snowy white, the Ardea candidissima; and are a very interesting addition to the river beauties, as they stalk along the banks, or sit perched upon the bushes, in the distance, resembling so many flowers. The stream was narrow, and the canoe was steered to one side or the other, as we saw these birds; and thus, until by repeated alarms, and much thinning of their ranks, they had become shy of our approach, they afforded us constant sport. Sometimes, far in the distance, the keen eyes of the men would descry the Great Blue Heron, the Ardea herodias; and with silent oars and beating hearts, we crept along the shore, hoping to take him unawares. But it was of no avail. His quick ear detected the approaching danger; and long before we could attain shooting distance, he had slowly raised himself, and flown further on, only to excite us still more in his pursuit.

About nine o'clock, we stopped at a small sugar estate, where we proposed to remain over the tide. In landing, I inad

vertently stepped off the blind stepping-stones, and brought up all standing with my knees in the mud, and slippers almost beyond redemption. However, I contrived to hook these out, and marched, in stocking feet, the remainder of the distance to the house, presenting, doubtless, an appearance as diverting as pitiful. But the whites and negroes who crowded the verandah, and awaited our approach, seemed too much accustomed to such mishaps to mind them, and a quickly applied liniment of agua fresca soon put all to rights again. We strolled into the woods, and after chasing about until we were weary, returned with several birds, mostly motmots and doves, and a number of the fruits called cupuassu. These are of the size and shape of a cocoa-nut in the husk, and within the shell is a fibrous, acid pulp, of which a delightful drink is made, much like lemonade. The producing tree is common in the forest, and of great size and beauty. The afternoon was rainy, and we were confined below. But the time passed not at all tediously, for beside the preserving of the birds, we had store of books wherewith to beguile our leisure. Next morning, we shot some rail, skulking among the mangrove roots by the water's edge. These birds are called from their notes Cyracúras, and are heard upon all these streams, in the early morning, or the dusk of evening, loudly cackling. It is unusual to observe more than one in a place, but at considerable distances, they call and answer each other. This is one of the birds that the citizens delight to domesticate. We heard also the sharp, quickly repeated notes of the Sun-bird, the Ardea helias, and the most beautiful of the heron tribe. Almost every bird is named in this part of Brazil, from its note, but this, by way of distinction, is called the pavon, or peacock. These birds were shy and we yet were ungratified by seeing one.

The mangroves that skirt all these streams are a curious feature. The tree itself is low, and has a small stem; but from this, radiate in every direction towards the water, long, fingerlike branches. These take root in the mud, and are really the roots of the tree, supporting the stem at some distance above the water. When they are small, they serve for arrows to the Indians, being very light, and often perfectly straight. They

not only so bind the soil as to prevent its wearing away by the constant flowings of the tide, but catch all sorts of drift, which in this way, contributes to the body of the island. Indeed, whole islands are thus formed; and within the memory of residents, an island of considerable size has sprung up within sight of the city of Pará. In a similar way, the thousands of islands that dot the whole Amazon have been formed.

Ever since we left Pará, our pilot had been inclined to insolence, but this afternoon, from the effects of cashaça which he had obtained at some of our landings, became intolerable. A——, at last, took his jug from him and pitched it overboard, giving him to understand that its owner would speedily follow, unless he changed his tone. This cowed the fellow into better manners, and A- sent him forward, taking the helm himself. No traveller will care to employ a second time one of these low whites or half breeds.

Towards evening, as we approached Vigia, we came upon a bank, where a large flock of Garças, mixed with Herons, Spoonbills, and Scarlet Ibises were feeding. This was the first time we had seen the latter, but the sun was too low to discover all their beauty. By eight o'clock we had anchored off Vigia. This town had once been populous, and even contained a Jesuit college; but long since, the houses had gone to decay, and the forest encroached upon the streets. It is now principally inhabited by fishermen, and in the distant view, appears like Pará, the same building material being used. We were not to stop here, as our letters were to Senhor Godinho, who lived upon a small igaripé opposite the town, distant a few miles; therefore we were early under way, although the tide was against us. In a high bank which we passed, were several holes of Kingfishers, and numbers of the birds, some very small, others, twice the size of our Kingfisher of the North, were flying about. At length, we turned into the desired igaripé, and by dint of hard rowing and poling, advanced as far as the shell of a house stuck upon the bank, whither our pilot went for directions. The fellow kept us waiting a half hour, and we pushed off without him, pleased enough to repay his villanies by a long walk through the mud and bushes. But the tide was

out, and we lodged immovably in the mud, and for an hour's space, were fain to keep ourselves in as good humor as we might under a burning sun, until the tide came to our relief. A beautiful red hawk sat near by, eyeing our movements, and a flock of buzzards were eating the crabs along the exposed mud. Numbers of little Sandpipers, the Totanus solitarius, were running about, hasting to get their breakfasts before the flooding waters should return. There were many dead fish lying about, often of large size. We afterwards learned that these had been killed by poison thrown into the holes which they frequent at low water.

As the tide rose, we pushed slowly on, and soon opened into a large clear space, at the remote end of which appeared the plantation house. Senhor Godinho met us upon the dock which ran directly by the side of his mill, and welcomed us in good English with the greatest warmth and politeness. We at once, felt ourselves at home. Forthwith, our luggage was unstored, a room was opened to the light, very much to the astonishment of the bats and cockroaches, and the blacksmith made his appearance with hooks and staples for our hammocks. We followed the Senhor to the verandah above, and under the cool breeze, soon lost all thoughts of our morning's broiling. Every thing about indicated opulence and plenty. Blacksmiths, carpenters and masons were at work in their different vocations; the negroes and oxen were driving the sugar mills; the steam pipe of the distillery was in full blast; and stacks of demijohns and jars were piled in the rooms, or standing ready to receive the cashaça or molasses.

The house was surrounded by woods, some nearer, some farther; and directly in front of the verandah, was an intervening swamp, along whose edges, cyracuras were feeding, and in the middle of which, pigs and goats disputed empire with various small water birds, and a tame white heron. Beyond, to the left, and extending several miles, was a prairie or campo, crossed by parallel strips of woods, and the loud cries of parrots and toucans came swelling on the breeze. This was irresistible, and as soon as we could dispatch a hearty dinner, guns in hand, we sallied on a tour of explora