or twice by the usual conveyance of railway, coach, hiring, &c., I got the consent of the Department to make trial of horseback as a means of locomotion, and several times rode from Dundee to John-o'-Groat's and back, including numberless cross-roads and paths to right and left, according to the locality of the schools to be visited. I was perhaps one of the last men in Scotland who did his travelling with the now almost disused pair of saddle-bags. The bulk of my luggage went before me by rail or coach, and I met it at various points, where I made the necessary exchanges between portmanteau and saddle-bags. The latter were small, about a foot square, and sufficed for all I required for three or four days' absence from the rest of my impedimenta.

I had a very complete equipment of waterproofs, and suffered neither in health nor comfort from this (as some thought) risky mode of travelling over the north of Scotland. I remember one noteworthy incident in connection with it. I had intimated the inspection of the school of Tongue in Sutherland, and had to cross the Kyle in a ferry - boat. My mare had a great objection to ferry-boats, and could only be induced to enter them by the most gentle per

HORSEBACK AND SADDLE-BAGS.

17

suasion, and literally inch by inch. On this occasion she was unusually obstinate, and completely exhausted the patience of myself and the boatman. At last Rorie, finding that too great a demand was being made on his time, asked

"Wull the peast have any objection to go into the water?"

"No," I replied; "she wades in quite readily." "Oh, that is goot." Then pointing to a tree about a hundred yards up the Kyle he said, "You will be seeing that tree?"

"Yes," I replied.

"And that other tree on the other side of the Kyle?"

"Yes."

"Well, if you make her go in at the one tree and walk across to the other, she will not be wet above the knees, for the tide is out whatefer."

I got into the saddle at once, and followed Rorie's instructions to the letter. All went well for a few yards, but the depth increasing, she lost her footing in mid-channel and had to swim for about a dozen yards, when she again reached terra firma. My legs of course got wet, but no worse consequences followed my first and prob

B

ably my last involuntary experience of a swim on horseback. I am inclined to think Rorie had a more accurate knowledge of the depth of the channel than he led me to believe, but I could not blame him. His patience had been sorely tried. For a very accurate sketch of the locality and the lines which accompany it I am indebted to a north-country friend who knows the locality :—

A Horseman, on a Highland shore, cries, "Boatman! launch your wherry!

And I'll give you full fare, and more, to take us o'er the

ferry."

"Noo, who was you wud boat the Kyle jist efter dead low tide ?

The banks is bad. It's better far round the loch-head

to ride.

I'm feared a fiery beast like that micht broke my boat to smash."

Just then Old Rorie thought he heard the sound of clinking cash.

The spell was potent-Rorie fidged-the problem made him frown,

A lick of paint might meet his loss, and then-that

silver crown.

"Maybe she'll came quite quate," he said.

"Well, friend, we can but try. I'll take her head, you twist her tail; we'll manage, you

and I."

SWIM ON HORSEBACK.

19

"The opserfation's fery richt; if she's pleased, goot an' well;

But I will drag her by the head, you'll try the tail

yoursel'."

But ne'er a footstep would she budge, -except, indeed, to back,

And rear and plunge and kick amain, as wheedle turned

to whack.

"Losh me!" cried Rorie, in despair, "I never seen the like:

She's jist as slipry as a hare, and soople as a tyke.

If Tonal Mòr was here to grip my hands below her

wyme,

We'd lift her like a big wool-bag, and boat her in no

time."

"Then run for Donald! off!! be quick!!! I'll pay him for his aid."

"Och! Tonal cannot came at all, I'm fery much afraid. They hed a merrage yisterday (Jeems Pincher's only daahter).

The drink was fery bad, they'll say, she speilt it wi' the waahter.

And Tonal Mòr he's fery seek and canna lift a head. We'll hev to try another plan. The decent man's in

bed."

"Around to ride, without a guide, would take me half the day.

You hinted at another plan; now what may it be, pray?"

"Ye see this tree, ahint o' me, and yon on other side; Jist keep that line, ye'll manage fine, but ye will hev to

ride.

For, faix the time is slipping by, the tide is rising fast. Look at the floating froth oot there the way it's driving past."

Poor Rorie felt he'd lost his fare, the trial vexed him sore. "He did his best," the Horseman thought, "and what can man do more?"

But Rorie rallied, stroked the mare, "She'll do, so help me nefer !

Ach! not at all! you're jist too kind. Well,—thenk you, sir, whatefer!'

The saddle-bags were covered up beneath a rain-proof

cape,

The head-gear, bridle, crupper, girth, were found to be

ship-shape:

The mare into the briny stepped, footing it gingerly, And soon the sward gave place to sand. The depth

was to the knee.

"Step out! my lass, don't be an ass! we've crossed a stream before.

A bigger business this, no doubt,-but we've to reach yon shore."

With oar in hand old Rorie stands, shading his eyes to see, While varying thought such voice demands as this soliloquy.

"She's going fair, he's sitting square, my word! they're doing fine.

The tide has worked them something west. They're raither off the line.

But what for are they waiting noo? what's stopping them at all?

They're off again,-that swirl-pot's near,-no use for me to call,