the Piedmontese; Pietro Micca; Piedmontese Officers; CHAP. IV.-COAST OF THE MEDITERRANEAN.-View of Genoa from the Sea, Appearance of the Coast; Even- ing Service on Board; Tale of La Bordighiera; Gulf of La Spezia; Massa, Carrara, and Lucca; Coast of Leghorn; Description of the Coast; Piombino and Island of Elba; Maremme; Buffaloes; Causes of Un- healthiness; Monte Argentaro; Exile of the Roman Clergy; Reflection on the Church of Rome; Storm off the Roman Coast; Mouth of the Tiber; Rome; Modern Romans; Civil Government of Rome; French Invasion in 1809; State of Moral Feelings; Porto d' Anzio ; CHAP. V. SICILIAN MONARCHY.-Vicissitudes of Naples; 1806.-Second French Invasion; Joseph Napoleon, and Murat; Murat's Character; His Policy; His War against Austria; His Fall; Ferdinand's Second Resto- ration; His Administration; Finances; State of the Country before 1820; Judicature; Revolution of 1820; Society of the Carbonari; Spanish Constitution; Nea- politan Parliament; Expedition against Palermo; Ef- fect of the Sicilian War; Advance of the Austrians ; Engagement at Rieta; The Austrians enter Naples; Closing of the Parliament; Provinces of the Kingdom; Abruzzo and Puglia; People of Puglia; Bands of CHAP. VI.-ISLANDS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA, Quarantine Regulations; Harbour of Marseilles; Ap- pearance of Marseilles; People of Marseilles; Political Disturbances; Police Regulations; Notre Dame de la View of the Country; Ex Voto offerings; Ca- tholic Rites. 207-239 ITALY, &c. CHAPTER I. SARDINIAN STATES. AFTER spending several months in Switzerland, it is with heartfelt satisfaction that I find myself once more on the south side of the Alps, in the beautiful plains of Piedmont, and this too in a most delightful time of the year. Having visited Lyons, the second city of France, I left it by the Turin diligence. We travelled the whole night; passed through Bourgoin and la Tour du Pin, two small French towns; and arrived at Pont Beauvoisin, on the frontiers of Savoy, next morning by ten o'clock. There we were detained four hours by the Piedmontese custom-house officers, who examined every part of the baggage. They are civil to passengers; when they have no suspicion of their concealing any contraband articles, they VOL. II. B do not empty their trunks, but merely overlook the contents, taking care not to injure them. I have found the custom-house officers of the King of Sardinia the best behaved of any I have met in the whole of my travels. They are well clothed and well paid, and do not seem susceptible of bribery; I have met with the same disinterested spirit in the Piedmontese police officers, and in the carabineers, who do their duty very well, and keep the roads perfectly safe; and I am happy to be able to pay them this compliment; they reflect credit upon their government and upon their country. Pont Beauvoisin is a small town divided in two by the river Guier, which forms the boundary between France and Savoy. On the bridge which unites the two districts of the town, there are on each side sentries of their respective nations. The French part is the best built. As I was standing in the middle of the square near the post-house, I could read the inscription of eight or ten inns, coffeehouses, and billiard-rooms dignified by high-sounding names. I suppose that the military, the customhouse and police officers, and the other people employed by government, form the principal part of the inhabitants of the place, and that they spend their frequent leisure hours in public places to kill time. The situation of Pont Beauvoisin is |