on the cheek,-right, left, right; after this each replaces his hat, first making a most profound bow to the other, and they separate. There is a story told of the present Emperor, who it is said, on Easter-day passing a sentry, saluted him as usual with the words "Christ is risen." "No; he's not, your Majesty," said the soldier, presenting arms. "He's not!" said the Emperor; "what do you mean? this is Easter Sunday." "I know that, please your

Majesty," replied the man; "but I am a Maho

The Russians, high and low, are great observers of times and seasons; and custom requires that at Easter, as well as at Christmas, all persons should visit their acquaintances to congratulate them on the occasion of the festival. Several carriages broke down last week, in the performance of this arduous duty, for the streets were in a terrible state, and some almost impassable, owing to the thaw, the snow not having entirely disappeared, but being worn into deep holes, which of course were full of water. On Easter Sunday, I saw a few sledges for the last time.

Opposite to the Admiralty, in the open place, large wooden booths had been erected for theatrical and other exhibitions, and in front of the booths were what are called katchellies, namely, swings, merry-go

with ladies, even if they are intimate acquaintances; in lieu of this, the gentleman kisses the lady's hand, while she at the same time puts her lips to his cheek. This custom is on the decline at Petersburg.

rounds, and similar inventions which were in full play during the whole of Easter-week. On the three last days there was a carriage promenade in front of the katchellies; and in the throng a string of twenty coaches-and-six, followed by six outriders, was conspicuous. The carriages were plain and neat, painted green, and all exactly alike, with handsome powerful horses, equipped in heavy German harness, and the coachman, postillions, footmen, and outriders, dressed in scarlet great coats with capes, cocked hats, leather breeches, and jack boots. The coachmen were evidently not much accustomed to driving four-in-hand,* and an English whip would hardly have admired their manner of handling the reins. These were court equipages, and each carriage contained six young ladies belonging to the public institutions or schools at Petersburg, under the patronage of the Empress, who annually bestows this indulgence upon the pupils.

The last and gayest of the promenades took place, according to custom, the day before yesterday, being the Sunday after Easter: it was attended by the court, and all the fashionable world, and every vehicle in Petersburg was placed in requisition. We remained at our windows, and we could not have been better placed, as, owing to the police regulations, all the carriages were obliged to pass down our street,

*The horses were driven, not in the Russian style, but in English, or rather German fashion.

in order to enter the Admiralty Place, and from about half-past five in the evening, the stream for two hours was incessant. Soon after six o'clock, the officers of the regiment of Gardes à cheval, who had been gradually assembling, drew up under our windows in scarlet uniforms, waiting to escort the Emperor, who in the course of half an hour drove up as usual in a plain open carriage with a pair of horses, accompanied by his eldest son. They stopped opposite to us, threw off their cloaks, and appeared in the same uniform as the officers, in attendance: an aide

de-camp brought the Emperor his horse, which he mounted, and his son following his example, he saluted right and left, and rode on, followed by the Gardes à cheval. As they disappeared under the arch of the Etat Major, the Empress with her three daughters turned into the street, at the other end, and passed down it in a handsome open carriage-andfour, with two postillions in English style, followed by two outriders dressed exactly like the postillions, in blue-and-silver jackets, and velvet caps, and escorted by a party of officers of the Chevaliers Gardes. The evening was exceedingly fine, and the scene was altogether very gay and lively.

As it was known that the Emperor would mount his horse in that spot, a great crowd was assembled to see him: and I could not help being struck by the manner in which he was received, though I am told it was exactly in accordance with his own wishes.

In England, the air would have been rent on such an occasion, by the cheers with which a popular Sovereign, and such the Emperor undoubtedly is, especially in Petersburg,—would have been received; here all was calm and silent: every head was uncovered, but neither hat nor handkerchief was waved in the air, and to have waved one, or to have uttered a shout, would undoubtedly have been considered a gross breach of etiquette, and the enthusiasm of the offender would have been quickly checked by the police. Nothing can be more graceful and dignified than the manner in which the Emperor acknowledges the salutes which he receives as he drives about; he has the royal talent of appearing to direct his attention to each individual in particular, and he never fails to return every salute, even that of a private soldier. With the promenade of Sunday, the public festivities of Easter concluded; yesterday, the exhibitions and katchellies ceased, and workmen are now busily employed in removing the booths and clearing the ground.

The unreasonable number of holydays in this country is a severe tax on industry, and a serious bar to the advancement and prosperity of the people, who, partly from inclination, and partly from superstition, hold it their bounden duty to spend every important saint's day in total idleness: and a reform in this point would be as difficult to effect with the Russian, as it would be to persuade John Bull to live

for half the year on black bread and quass, if beef and beer were within his reach. The Emperor Paul discanonized a considerable number of saints; but there were some whose fêtes, though he much desired it, even he did not venture to attack, and others, from the strong popular feeling on the subject, he found himself compelled to re-instate, after having struck their names out of the calendar. The difficulty of meddling with saints' days, forms the principal obstacle to the introduction of the new style into Russia: the advantage of this change is obvious to all, but were it carried into effect, I am told that a schism in the church would be the almost certain result. Bigotry and superstition are powerful opponents to civilization and improvement.

The snow is now all gone, and dust is beginning to fly in the streets; the Neva, however, is still frozen over, but the ice is beginning to weaken, and yesterday, barriers were erected to prevent horses and carriages from going upon it; foot passengers, however, still venture, and the river is not expected to break up for some days.