together before, and some of which appeared at first inclined strongly to object to their new occupation. There seemed, however, to be a mutual understanding between the peasants who drove us and their beasts; whether the latter were stimulated by the hopes of a feed of corn if they behaved well, as were their masters by the prospect of a navodka or drinkmoney, I do not know; but after a short time we all got on exceedingly well together, and were driven, as had been the case, every where, quite as fast as seemed possible, and much faster than I could have expected considering the nature of the road: we were well shaken and jolted about, but no accident happened.

During the whole course of the journey we seldom had a postillion who was luxurious enough to use a saddle; they generally had a bag or a mat thrown across the horse instead. Sometimes they had a rope hanging down on each side with a loop, into which they put their feet by way of stirrups; very often, however, even this rude accommodation was wanting.

The great pace at which the Russians generally go when the road is good, is very dangerous for the postillion, since, if his horse falls, the wheels cannot be stopped in time, and he is run over and probably killed. Such accidents are not uncommon on the great roads. It is astonishing how well the istvostchiks drive four horses abreast through the bad

roads, wearing gloves like those of an English hedger, made without fingers, and holding three reins in each hand. There is no country where a little extra drinkmoney will do so much as here; though the istvostchik is frequently the owner of the horses which he drives, he appears to care more for the vosseim grievnik or eightpenny piece, which he gets as navodka, than for the roubles which he receives for the hire of his horses. Navodka means literally for a dram, but it is now coming into fashion among the more refined istvostchiks to beg instead a nachai, or tea money. They are very good-humoured fellows, and generally when they come to be paid, put on what they evidently consider a most insinuating tone and manner: they come to the carriage door, pull off their hats, and make a low bow; they then shake back their long hair, which this performance has brought into their eyes, and say navodka batushka, or nachai, as the case may be, in their most persuasive tone. Batushka is a sort of endearing and at the same time respectful address, which is commonly used to superiors, as brat or brother is to equals and inferiors; it signifies literally little father. When they receive their money they generally look satisfied, while at the same time they often think a little more may be had for the asking, and they remark with an insinuating smile, that they have driven very well; and if a small coin is, on this plea, added to their navodka, they retire highly delighted with a profusion of thanks and bows. One

man in the middle of our journey amused us much by turning round to M-, after he had received the usual drink-money, and saying "Ah Marie Alexandrovna, I'm sure you'll give me a good navodka, for I know your father, and your uncles, and all the family." He had probably found out who we were from the courier, or perhaps our servant; at all events, I believe he gained his point.

All the way, after we entered the government of Yaroslav, we remarked that the road was lined on each side by a double row of birch-trees, and I now find that all the public roads in the government are ornamented in the same manner.

We arrived here on the 16th of September, at about two o'clock in the morning: a servant soon made his appearance and conducted us to a very comfortable set of rooms which were prepared for our reception, and which, besides being in other respects very handsomely furnished, boast the unusual luxury of having their floors entirely covered with carpet. We got some tea, and of course went to bed as soon as possible, though not without having admired the moonlight view from our windows over the Volga, which here is a splendid stream about seven hundred yards wide.

This house, which was originally built as a palace for a member of the Imperial family, forms a very splendid residence for the Governor, and the situation is exceedingly fine, as the town lies at the

back, while the windows in front look upon a terrace at the foot of which flows the Volga. The terrace, which stands at a great height above the water, extends for more than a mile, commanding a fine view of the river and the country beyond. A very considerable trade is carried on in the town, which is large, handsome, and flourishing; the shops are exceedingly well supplied with goods, and many of the merchants, I am told, are very rich. Yaroslav contains twenty-eight thousand inhabitants, and fortythree or forty-four churches. Besides the terrace above the Volga, there is a handsome boulevard, and also a public garden. There are a number of large and elegant houses in the town, which in the winter are inhabited by gentlemen's families, so that the society is very good.

On the Sunday, two days after our arrival, we attended the performance of mass at the military church, by the invitation of the commanding officer, Colonel Goulaivitch, a fine soldier-like man, who, as well as his lady, has shown us great attention and civility since we have been here, and both of whom we have been fortunate enough to meet almost daily. The church was entirely filled with soldiers, and the effect produced by so many voices chanting in unison the hymns and responses was exceedingly fine.

This regiment is a military institution which has been established here about two years, for the purpose of educating and training up soldiers' sons; the

object being to provide a supply of intelligent well taught non-commissioned officers for the army. The regiment is composed of three battalions, each more than a thousand strong. The first battalion consists of little boys up to the age of about fifteen; the second, of lads from fifteen to seventeen or eighteen, and the third is effective; in the whole corps, however, there is hardly a soldier more than twenty years old.

After the conclusion of the service, the men were paraded before the Governor, and on this occasion I heard for the first time the singular salutation of the Russian soldiers to their inspecting officer. Each company as it marches past, shouts, at a given signal, as if with one voice, and very quick, "Sdrasti Souda!" good-day, sir. I am not sure as to the exact words, but that is their meaning, and the effect of the crash with which the salute is given is very striking. After the parade, the Colonel took us all over the barracks, which are airy and well organized; every thing seemed in excellent order, and the dormitories and other apartments clean and well ventilated. The boys are well instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic; they also learn drawing and various branches of professional knowledge, and they are all taught some trade. Nearly every part of the soldiers' equipments is made at home, including the patent leather for their belts, which seemed to be of very good quality. Even carriage and portraitpainting were among the arts practised by the sol