it to throw out two branches of equal strength. As these grow, they must be carefully protected from being broken or injured; should one branch grow stronger than the other, the strongest must be fastened in a proportionally reclining position, which will give the weakest a larger portion of sap, and forward its growth.

Should those branches during the first summer grow so fast or large as to endanger their breaking, when fastened down in the winter, which they sometimes will do, they may, during the summer or in the autumn, be fastened in a reclining position, proportioned to their size; but if not in this shape, and of a less height than four feet, they may remain until the next season.

All collaterals or shoots springing from the sides of the stems, must be stopped immediately above the first bud, as they grow out, as this will incline them to grow more in height than in size, and render them more compliable.

Those intended for the simple horizontal plan, as Plate 2. must be managed in the same manner, until the branches are six or eight feet long; and also such as are intended for one serpentined stem, until of a proper height.

Plants that are intended for spiral espaliers must be headed back, and managed so as to produce four or five branches of equal strength on a stock or stem of about six inches from the earth, and those permitted to grow erect, removing all collaterals, until they are from four to eight feet long,

unless, as before remarked, they grow so large and luxuriant as to endanger breaking; in which case they must be fastened in a reclining position, more or less, according to their strength, during the season of their growth.

Should the leading branches of any of those plan be by any casualty stopped, several buds will pro bably shoot; in this case, only one shoot must be permitted to grow, to continue it; all others must be removed as soon as perceived.

When budded trees are intended for standards, one shoot only must be suffered to grow, and this carefully trained up, so as to continue rising from the point bud; and when stocks are grafted for standards, such grafts should be selected as have the point bud perfect, and the shoot produced by this should be carefully trained up and continued from the point bud.

When necessary to shorten the graft, previous to its insertion, it should be done from the lower or largest end; and if the grafts that are used have not the point bud, one shoot only should be suffered to grow, and this fixed as perpendicularly and straight as possible from the graft.

When grafts have taken to the stock, and have grown a few inches, they should be unbound and fastened, if necessary, to stakes, to prevent their being blown off, and all shoots except the leading one taken off.

If no accident occurs, these will require no other labour for two or three years; the point buds will

naturally keep the lead, and in most kinds of trees form a straight and handsome stem.

Whilst the leading branch maintains the ascendency, the side branches of the second year should remain on; they serve to strengthen and increase the size of the stem in a conical shape, until it has attained its utmost height, which should be about six feet, and this it will generally do the second or third year.

When a tree has attained its proper height, all the side branches below those intended to form the head, should be removed close to the stem; and when the stem is grown to its due height, which, if left to Nature, will be determined according to the soil and situation in which it is placed, the buds that rise immediately about the point of the annual leading shoot will generally form a circle of branches at the end of each year's growth; and those branches naturally arranged in regular tiers, and at proper distances, are best adapted for bearers of their different kinds of fruit.

Therefore with trees raised in this manner (see figure 2. plate 3.) no branch will ever require to be shortened; the plant will progressively increase, and, as soon as it attains its proper extent of surface and age, will bear fruit; and which will generally take place much earlier than with trees that are headed back.

As the central or leading buds and branches are liable to be broken by accident, or destroyed by insects, it will be necessary to look over the grafts

occasionally; and if two or more shoots are contending for the lead, all must be removed, except the one that is best situated for continuing the stem; or if any of the leaders grow reclining, they must be fastened in a proper position to stakes.

ON SOILS,

AND

THE PREPARATION OF BEDS,

OR

BORDERS FOR FRUIT TREES.

WHEN the soil of a garden wherein fruit trees are to be planted is not naturally conformable or congenial to the first principle, it must be made so.

The forming new beds or borders will perhaps be thought too troublesome and expensive, but it is of the utmost importance in determining the future produce of the trees; and it should be considered that this first expence is not like common manuring, it will never require to be repeated; and although at first it may appear great, yet if it be divided, and placed to the account of so many years as its profitable effects will be experienced, it will bear no comparison with every other expence attending the planting and training trees.

As to any particular form or substance of which walls for sustaining fruit trees should be built, I do not consider it of any very material consequence; it however is of material importance, that the top of the wall be so formed as to throw off water; for