probably be torn, the wounds will require some time to cicatrize or heal, which must take place before fresh roots can be formed; and thus time will be saved, and the tree better prepared for the spring.

It is well known that the roots of a tree extend and increase annually, and, in proportion, the branches are also extended; if, therefore, the branches are found to exceed the space allotted, and to be too luxuriant to bear fruit, it must not be expected that the cutting those off will prevent the same excess the following season, and when the means of such produce are increased.

In planting, we must either adapt the soil to the space allotted to each tree, or allow each tree a space proportioned to the soil.

A tree should not be cut back but from its beginning; if, therefore, a small space only can be allowed for the trunk or stem, and branches, the soil must be reduced accordingly; and when the soil is rich, and the space ample, a tree should be allowed a space equal to its utmost growth.

The peach tree, in rich and well watered borders, will fill sixteen feet square of walling; but Hitt calculates that twelve feet square is as much as a dwarf peach or nectarine tree will annually cover with bearing wood; and in the borders I have described, this will be found pretty correct.

Those trees, therefore, which are intended to be trained with two stems, and planted in such a soil, should be planted twelve feet apart, if against

walls of twelve feet high, and if lower, at a proportionate distance; but if against walls of a less height than eight feet, this plan of training is not so well adapted as the simple horizontal method, which will be explained, and is represented by plate 2. *

A tree being obtained, presenting two branches of the last year's growth, as represented by fig. A. plate 1., and which form the foundation of the future tree, and are called stems, let them be fixed in the position represented by figure B., which it will be observed is placed more perpendicular the first year than afterwards; and this is done that the whole supply of the sap may go to the upper ends of the stems; and all the buds that are not three feet above the lower end being rubbed off, the course of sap will be more regular and fixed, which will then be less inclined to throw out shoots below, and where they are not wanted, than when fixed more horizontally.

If the stems are four feet long, or more, let them be fixed to the wall, near a bud, on the outer side, which is about three feet and a half from the end or fork (see a. figure B.), and then turn the top inwards to a curve or angle of about forty-five degrees; this will place the bud a. in a position nearly as vertical as the end of the stem, and it

* On further experience, I find this method is in no respect equal to that shewn by figures 1, 2, 3, 4. plate 1.; for in the plan, figures 2, 3, 4. plate 2., the new horizontals will each year be stronger, and the sap will not be equally divided.

will in consequence obtain a large share of sap at the bud b. on the inner side; and about six inches distance fix the stem again, and turn it on the same curve outwards (see b. b. figure B.), and let this be continued from side to side, forming a serpentine line as the tree advances to its utmost height. See figures 1, 2, 3, 4.

By these means the side branches or horizontals (on the principles before explained) will obtain an equal share of sap, and be continued to fill the space allotted, regularly up the stem, with equal luxuriance.

As peach or nectarine trees bear their fruit on shoots of the last year, or one year old, of a moderate strength, these side branches, by being fixed in a horizontal position, will constantly furnish such; and as the sap will naturally flow into the buds on their upper sides, each will have its regularly allotted space, and which may be kept uniformly covered with bearing-wood; and by shortening, cutting out, and fixing these in a proper position, the bearing-wood will be regularly and annually renewed.

If the branches of a plant intended for stems are not long enough to produce buds at the distance stated, they must remain nearly perpendicular until they are so, and before they are curved; when they are of sufficient length, all the buds being rubbed off, except three on each stem, as marked a. b. figure B., each of these will form a shoot of three or four feet long the following year,

and the second year, in October; the whole should be fixed in the position represented by figure 1., and the stems brought down to an angle of about 30; it must be observed, that if the ho rizontal branches were brought down to a precise flat horizontal position from the stem, they would be furnished with branches for bearers of very unequal strength, for the bud nearest the stem offering the first vertical channel, would take the greatest share of sap, and be too gross to bear fruit, and from being thus robbed, the other branches would diminish towards the point, and be too diminutive and weak to bear fruit; to prevent this inequality, and at the same time to give the bearer next the stem sufficient strength to take place of and renew the horizontal when required, the end of the horizontal next the stem is first fixed sufficiently elevated to enable the first buds to draw the necessary portion of sap, to form a branch strong enough for a new horizontal, and then sufficiently depressed, or laid horizontal, to occasion an equal division of the remainder of the sap amongst the other bearers, and to furnish all those of nearly the same strength to the point and this is done by forming a curve, rising from a horizontal position to 30 or 40 degrees elevation, as represented.

In the spring all the buds on the stems must be rubbed off, except those marked b. b. b. ; these will then form the basis of the bearers or horizontals, which will be placed from twelve to fifteen inches apart.

L

All wood buds must also be taken off from the horizontals, except those which grow on the upper sides, and as these will then receive the whole of the sap, drawn by the horizontal, they will form bearers of proper strength and length, and when nailed as represented, will fill the spaces between the horizontals with regularity.

It must be observed, that the disbudding should not be performed till the buds are grown a quarter or half an inch, which will generally be by the end of April or beginning of May.

Proceeding thus, the tree will be like the figure 2. the second winter, figure 3. the third, and figure 4. the fourth winter; and the following summer the bearers will throw out young wood, as well as produce fruit, which may be regulated so that the old bearers may be taken out the following winter, and the young wood brought down to fill its place.

Should the horizontals at any time be destroyed, or the buds or branches removed from the stem, during their growth, they may be replaced by inarching, or grafting by approach, which may be done by taking any young branch that is conveniently placed, and cutting off a slice from the side of the branch, about half its thickness through, and an inch in length, and then removing a similar piece of bark and wood from that part of the stem where the graft is required to grow, place them together so that the edges of the bark of each may come in contact, and bind them with matting, &c. ; this may be done either in the spring or at mid