upright, but the other four must be chosen as much in a horizontal position as their natural manner of growing will allow.

"Figure 4. represents a tree when full grown: the way to bring a tree to such a shape is to make a straight stem, and preserve upon it four branches, at every place where a new sett of horizontals is required, A. B. C. D. which should not be nearer each other than two feet, and if the tree is of such a nature as to produce a straight, upright branch for a stem, then all others but those designed for horizontals must be rubbed off at their first appearance, for all branches of a standard fruit tree should grow in such positions as those of a silver fir tree."

173

DIRECTIONS

FOR THE

PRUNING AND MANAGEMENT

OF

OLD WALL TREES.

In the pruning and management of old trees, the principles I have laid down will be found equally to apply, as to the training of young ones; but as most will require considerable attention to reduce them to a proper state, I shall suppose a few cases, and explain the best mode of treatment.

Peach trees are generally trained in the fan fashion; and when of more than six or eight years old, their best bearing wood is formed at the extremities of the branches, and there not being room to fix them, they are cut away.

When a selection of branches is made, an appearance of decent regularity is given, and the space is sufficiently covered; but as in the performance of this, full one-half or perhaps twothirds of the young shoots are removed, those that are left being the underling branches (or such as

were made to fructify by starvation, instead of due

exposure), are incapable of producing fruit in perfection.

From the peculiar position of the branches, the best bearing wood is formed in nearly the same place as the last year, and again cut out, and thus, by pursuing the same plan annually, the trees are continued in the same imperfect state.

To remedy these defects, and to rectify such trees as are here described, the most direct method that can be taken is to reduce them to the figures in plates 1. or 2.; and where the whole branches are pliable, to bring them down to a horizontal position; but, in doing this, great care will be necessary, as it will be difficult to avoid fractures.

Most trees will be found to bend better at the falling of the leaf than at any other season; but it frequently happens that very slight wounds or fractures at this season are followed by the canker and mortification, which is not the case in the spring, or when the sap is flowing; for these reasons, I prefer pruning old trees in the spring.

The most effectual and perfect method to renovate an old tree, would certainly be to cut off or back the whole of the head, and as it throws out young branches, to proceed as with a young one; but as this would be a certain loss of fruit for two or three years, most persons will prefer a reformation by degrees; and this is best done by forcing down the old branches as much within bounds as possible.

In doing this, such branches as are too stubborn may be cut half through, they will then split in bending, like the plashing in a quick hedge; this

may be an eye-sore, but it will be only temporary, as it will most likely occasion a strong young branch to shoot and grow at its base, which may be trained down upon or across the old branches, in the same position as a young tree, and as if the old branches were not there.

The crossing of young branches over the old, or fastening these down upon them, will occasion no injury; the old branches being continued merely to produce fruit, until the young ones are sufficiently forward, may then be cut out, and thus a new tree may be raised almost imperceptibly.

When old trees are very subject to canker, the cause will generally be found either in the soil or subsoil, from its being too retentive of moisture, or from water stagnating from other causes.

In the first case, therefore, the soil must be carefully removed from the surface, so as to uncover the roots to their full length, or as nearly so as practicable, and then cut off such roots as appear to run downwards or grow deep; or if some extend beyond the good soil into bad, they must be shortened; then mix with the soil some coarse sand, fine gravel, or brick rubbish, or in case these are not at hand, some ashes, in a proportion sufficient to break its tenacity, or to make it open and free, and cover the roots again with this mixture.

If the subsoil only is in fault, or water stagnates from other causes, cutting off the downright roots, and making proper drains, will be found efficient.

When a tree blossoms much, but does not bear,

the cause will be found generally to arise from poverty, or too much water, with too little of the carbonaceous principle, and a remedy will be found in laying dung on the surface, or watering it with a strong solution of the serum of blood or dung.

In some cases this defect will be caused by the branches being too many and too close, or overshadowed; to remedy this, they must be thinned out, and the sun admitted.

A tree will sometimes set its fruit, which will continue to languish on the branches for a while, but at length fall off by degrees, until very few are left, and those seldom attain size or flavour; this defect will often arise from a want of moisture, as well as from a deficiency of the carbonaceous principle in the soil.

Where a tree appears weak, in a dry open soil, on a gravelly substratum, dung should be laid over the surface of the bed or border, and water in liberal quantity be frequently poured over it; or if the soil be sufficiently rich, a good watering alone, every two or three days, will most likely prove sufficient.

Wherever canker or gum appears, the decayed or infected part must be cut clean out, and some soot wetted and rubbed over the wound; this will generally prevent its spreading further, and save the branch.

Apricots, plums, and cherries, and all stone fruits, are subject to the same defects and diseases, and from the same causes, as peach and nectarine