WUSUNG TO HANKAU.

Until re-surveyed and buoyed, and local pilots established, the Yang-tse kiang, above the red buoy at the entrance of Wusung river, must be navigated with extreme caution; the constant accumulation of a very fine kind of sand having created banks, where, at the period of the last survey in 1842, deep water existe, and shoals, which then were at all times covered, are now, from the increase of alluvial deposits, at low water in many places exposed to view.*

Blonde Shoal, which in 1842 had 24 fathoms on it, and a knoll marked to the S.S. W. of it, appear to have formed a junction, and the bank made by them now shows at low water in several spots.

In November 1858, Retribution, Furious, Cruizer, Dove, and Lee, passed to the westward of this bank, but at low water not more than 15 or 16 feet will be found in the channel. The Retribution, drawing nearly 20 feet, had to wait until half-flood, and then had but six inches to spare.

West Blonde Channel.-This channel was chosen in preference to the one on the eastern side of the above bank, merely from its having been examined and partially buoyed; want of time preventing the examination of the other, which will be found to be the deeper, straighter, and more desirable channel of the two. The course from the red buoy off Wusung to the entrance of West Blonde channel is N.W.4W., about 7 miles; when that distance has been run, it will be prudent, if drawing not more than 15 feet, to approach the land (a large and rather conspicuous clump of trees bearing South), touching with the lead, in from 3 to 4 fathoms on the edge of the bank off the shore of the mainland, it being less abrupt, and affording more warning, than the edges of the Blonde shoal, or rather bank.

As the monotonous embankments of this part of the river afford no landmark that could be recognized from description by a stranger—their height hiding the houses, &c., in the rear—the lead must be mainly depended on. The course through the channel is about N.W.

A quick eye may possibly detect two small Joss poles, which occasionally may be visible, through the tops of the trees, over the embankment. If seen, when brought to bear West, a push should be made to the northward, clearing the north end of the Blonde shoal; should the Joss poles not be visible, a boat should be used to sound, and to mark the N.N.W. end of the shoal, clear of which the channel should be crossed steering N.N.E., on which course from 8 to 10 fathoms will be obtained, until the bank extending from Tsung-ming is approached. When in from 5 to 6 fathoms, steer so as to keep on the edge of this bank in that depth, the course being about N.N.W.W.; by this means the Dove's Nest, a very dangerous collection of banks, will be avoided. The Cruizer grounded on the 7th November, and the Furious on the 9th, on these shoals, from which the following bearings were obtained:-village on Harvey

*See Chart of the Yang-tse kiang, from the sea to Nanking, corrected to October 1859, No 1,480; scale, m02 of an inch.

The description of the navigation of the Yang-tse kiang above Wusung is by Commander J. Ward, R.N.

point N. E.; single tree W. by N.N.; great bush W.N.W.; and left extreme of Mason island N.W.*

The Captain of the steamer Confucius reports that there is a good channel close along the main shore; but he acknowledged that his vessel, drawing about 8 feet water, often grounded in it; it was therefore not considered desirable to try that channel until time permitted of its examination.

Harvey Point may be passed at about three-quarters of a mile, and when a conspicuous clump on it bears S.E. by E.E., steer N.W. by W. W. From 6 to 7 fathoms may be expected on this course, until the conspicuous Single tree marked on the chart bears S.S.W.W.; then steer W. by N.N., making due allowance for the tides, which here run N.W. and S.E.

Plover Point may be known by the village on it, and a small fort or breastwork. A number of junks are generally at anchor in a creek opening at this point. When the fort bears S. W., the dangerous banks and shoals known as the Lang-shan crossing may be said to commence.

The fort on Plover point, which is low and will require a good glass to make out, must not be brought to the southward of S.W., until Fu-shan hill, if seen, bears West; then steer for the hill. If the weather be clear, Fu-shan will be made in the shape of a hummock, crowned by trees, and a few white houses; a small fort, like a martello tower, standing on the slope, may also possibly be seen. If unable to get a bearing of Fu-shan, when Lang-shan pagoda, a very conspicuous object situated on the summit of the highest of three hills, bears N.N.W. W., and a white house on left bank of river, if distinguishable, N. 27 E., steer West, until the pagoda bears North, the depth being from 7 to 9 fathoms; then haul more northward, W. by N. N., until Lang-shan pagoda bears N. 13. E., when the course becomes N. W. N. until Lang-shan pagoda bears E. by N.; the course may then be again altered so as to approach closer the left bank of the river, which may now be, for some distance, kept aboard. Ku-shan Point, which when seen from the south-east is wedge-shaped, the thick end, 90 feet high, being outwards and very conspicuous, should not be approached in passing nearer than 2 to 3 miles.

After passing Ku-shan point, the most anxious and dangerous part of the navigation of the Yang-tse may fairly be said to have been accomplised; in no other portion of the river do we find the same rapid alteration in the bed, especially in the vicinity of Fu-shan and Lang-shan, where the strong tides appear to be actively and constantly engaged in removing some banks, while others are being formed. Until a good local pilotage has been established, vessels, especially sailing vessels, proceeding up, would act wisely by always having a boat ahead, showing the soundings. The time lost in this slow mode of progress is not to be compared with that consumed, exclusive of damage, in heaving a ship off a sand-bank.

Hwang-shan.—After passing the islets formed and in course of formation abreast Ku-shan point, the river becomes pretty clear, and a mid-channel course may be safely pursued, steering for the high land about Hwang-shan, (which,

The Cruizer kept along the south shore of the river, in 3 and 4 fathoms, and when Harvey point bore North, steered directly for it, by which means she grounded on the south edge of these shoals, — Wiliam D. Strong, Master H.M.S. Cruiser, 1858.

from Ku-shan point, looks like an island in the centre of the river,) the lead giving no bottom at 8 fathoms. Anchorage, if required, can be had in Hwangshan bay, but the water is deep,-12 fathoms close in-shore. The hills in the vicinity range from 250 to 300 feet high. The rise and fall of tide in Hwangshan bay was from 4 to 6 feet.

Starling Island.—The river narrows to a mile between Hwang-shan bay and Kiang-yin, but immediately afterwards becomes wider. A mid-channel course. is still to be steered, following the trend of the river, until approaching Starling island, when the left bank must be neared, and may be kept pretty close (about a quarter of a mile,) passing eastward of the islands.

A dangerous shoal, bearing from Keun-shan or Chu-san pagoda S. 63o E., is forming in the river, and will doubtless before long become an island. It shows at low water, and lies close to the left or eastern bank of the river, with a boat channel inside it.

Chang-sang-chau.-The left bank of the river should still be kept aboard, passing eastward of a long low island. No other banks appear to be forming, until abreast the islet named Chang-sang-chau, where from the right bank a dangerous shoal stretches nearly half way across the river, to avoid which the island of Shau-sha should be kept aboard. The river banks are monotonous between Kiangyin and Keun-shan, the only rising ground, through the whole extent, being Ku-shan hill, on which are some houses.

Tides.-H.M.S. Styx experienced a strong ebb all night, when at anchor off Ku-shan point in June 1854, and it was supposed that the flood stream had no existence 10 or 15 miles below this point; this, however, must be considered to refer merely to that period of the year, the river then having a large body of water in it, the downward current would naturally have greater weight, and check the flood stream; but in November 1858 the level of the river was lower, and the influence of the flood was felt much higher; and on 29th December, the level of the water being still lower, the flood stream was sensibly felt as high as Nanking.

Silver Island.-In passing Silver island, the southern channel should be taken, being careful to keep a mid-channel course, to avoid the Furious rock, having 14 feet on it, lying about a third of the passage over from Silver island; an da rock terminating some broken ground which extends from the right bank. A quick helm will be required in passing through, to avoid being at the mercy of the whirling eddies caused by the check these rocks oppose to the stream.

Silver island is evidently destined to form a junction with the small island called Ia-sha. A spit now runs out from the low flat tongue of ground which has accumulated to the north-eastward of the high ground of Silver island towards Ia-sha; while another appears to be working its way from Ia-sha towards Silver island, and the channel between the two is clearly filling up, and the passage has become so narrowed, that it was not deemed prudent to take the Retribution through in November 1858.

• The bearings from the Furious when aground on the reef extending to the southward, from Silver island were:-Golden island pagoda W. by S.48: Keun-shan pagoda E.3s; and extremes of Silver island from N.EE to N W. by N. At two ship's-lengths to the south-east of the reef there is a rock with only 16 feet water on it.-Captain S. Osborn, R.N., November 1858.

Golden Island.-After clearing Silver island, the left bank of the river should be gradually approached, and passing Chin-kiang fu, kept close aboard, to avoid a rock, said to have 10 feet on it, lying nearly in the centre of the river, to the north-west of Golden island; in the vicinity of which island several rocks appear to exist.

Golden island is now connected with the mainland by a low isthmus, well covered with grass.

Pih-sin-chau.-Both channels, north and south of Pih-sin-chau, appear to be safe and clear. In proceeding through the south channel, Pih-sin-chau should be kept aboard; and, after passing it, a mid-channel course steered, until abreast Yen-tse-ki, when the left bank must be closed, in order to avoid an out-lying rock said to exist near the right bank; after passing which, a midchannel course may be again steered, giving a mud flat, recently formed at the north-west side of Tsau-hia island, a berth. After passing this flat, the river appears to be quite clear.

Nanking.-Theodolite point and the Nanking forts may be approached within pistol-shot. The (two) forts on the right bank of the river are erected on a detached tongue of land in front of the city walls.

Vessels should keep close in to the right bank of the river. After passing Nanking, a mid-channel course may be steered.

Elgin Reach appears to be clear. A mid-channel course may be taken, until the centre of some rising ground, about 150 feet high, and 3 miles S.W. of a remarkable rebel stronghold on left bank of river, bears West; when the right bank should be closed to avoid a spit, running to the north-east of what appears to be a small island.*

Wade Island.—The channel east of Wade island has generally no bottom at 8 fathoms. The channel west of it was used by the U.S.S. Susquehanna, and had 8 fathoms in it; both channels may therefore be said to be navigable. The western one is decidedly the preferable of the two, as by using it, some shallow ground 3 miles W.S.W. of Tai-ping pagoda, and abreast the smal village of Tang-tu, will be avoided. Should the eastern channel be used, do not approach the right bank of the river near Tang-tu, but pass close to the southwest end of the small island south of Wade island, as a dangerous shoal stretches out from the village before mentioned; by keeping Tai-ping pagoda nearly touching the south side of the small island, the depth was not less than 17 feet.

The Pillars.-When the river, as in January, may be considered to be at its lowest level, close the left bank to within half a mile, keeping Taiping pagoda as before, and steer a mid-channel course, passing between the East and West pillars, which are two rugged eminences, strongly fortified. From the Pillars the course up the river is southerly. Morton point may be kept close aboard, passing eastward of a small flat island. A rock just showing in November, but dry 6 feet in December, lies on the right bank of the river, 3 miles south of Morton point, and about a cable's length from the shore, and would be covered earlier in the autumn.

* See Chart-The Yang-tse kiang, from Nanking to Tung-liu; and Tung-liu to Han-kau, Nos 2678, 2695, scales, m = half an inch; surveyed by Commander J. Ward and Officers of H.M.S. Acteon and Dove, November 1858.

Wuhu Reach.-Off the city of Wuhu a shoal lies about a cable's length from the right bank, and dries in December; a mid-channel course clears it, and may be steered with safety through the Wuhu reach, gradually closing the right bank on approaching a range of hills 700 feet high, abreast which are a small islet and some mud patches at about 1 cable from the shore of the left bank. These mud banks were covered in November, but dry for nearly 2 miles in December. After passing these banks, a mid-channel course may be again followed, passing southward of Barker island, from the north-east point of which Kieu-hien pagoda will be seen.

Kieu-hien.-Good anchorage in from 5 to 8 fathoms was found off this city, which stands on the right bank of the river, about 80 miles above Nanking; some conspicuous hills, ranging from 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, rise some 3 or 4 miles to the southward of it. Some mud banks are accumulating about the south-west end of Barker island. A mid-channel course should be steered, the least water found being 34 fathoms; this part of the river must be approached with caution. The channel north of Barker island is supposed to be clear, and, if so, would avoid the shoal water before mentioned.

Tides. From the 24th November 1858, there was a daily rise and fall of 6 inches, but a steady decreasing of the level of the river until the 18th December, when the fall-since the 25th November-had amounted to 8 feet. From the 18th December, when there commenced a week's constant fall of rain, with fresh N.E. and easterly winds, the river rose gradually 3 or 4 feet, and the vessel swung occasionally to a flood stream. The influence of the flood was sensibly felt off Nanking on the 29th December, and very slightly off Tai-ping and Wuhu.

Osborn Reach is clear. After passing Teih-kiang, keep close to the right bank of the river until clear of Osborn reach, and approaching a large village built on the left bank, cross over, keeping that bank aboard until after passing the village.

Wild Boar Reach.-A mid-channel course may now be steered through Wild Boar reach, which trends to the southward. Some high land will here be seen on the left bank of the river, which was the first rising ground met with on that bank after passing through the Pillar hills, a distance of more than 50 miles. Keep the left bank of the river in view, to prevent being enticed into a wide channel opening in the right bank, and which at first has the appearance of being the main stream; it is about 2 miles to the northward of a walled village which stands on the left bank. On nearing this walled village, close the left bank slightly, to avoid some shallow ground lying abreast it off the right bank; after passing which, Wild Boar reach is quite clear, the course still southerly. After passing a ruined temple, which stands on a very conspicuous bluff, about 100 feet high, edge over to the left bank, to avoid some shallow ground on the right bank, where the channel takes about a W.S. W. course for about 23 miles.

Fitz-Roy Island.-Some shallows lie off the left bank of the river east of Fitz-Roy island, to avoid which keep the right bank aboard until Chichau pagoda bears South; then edge over towards the east part of Fitz-Roy, passing through the channel north of it, keeping pretty close to the left bank, as some mud flats lie on the north side of the island.