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tained. Hence there are two great objects which the cultivator should aim at, viz. Amelioration and Propagation.

LINDLEY'S MODE OF CROSS-FERTILIZATION.

Lindley recommends the operation of cross-fertilization to be performed early in the morning of a dry day; about sunrise is a good time to begin, and before the blossom is entirely expanded. The pollen being at that time humid, is closely attached to the anthers. The blossoms must be carefully opened and the anthers extracted by delicate scissors, care being taken not to wound the filaments, nor any other part of the flower. This being done, the matured pollen from another variety must be carefully placed on the blossom which it is intended to fertilize, and from which the anthers have been extracted; and this operation must be repeated twice or three times in the course of the day. By shaking the blossom over a sheet of white paper, the time when it is perfectly matured will be ascertained. It is necessary to protect the prepared blossom from bees and other insects with thin bookmuslin, or gauze, till a swelling is perceived in the germ. When the process has been successful, the pollen which has been placed on the stigma becomes so attached that it cannot be removed with a hair pencil. It changes form and color, and soon disappears, and the blossom will soon wither and fade. But when the process has been imperfect, the pollen is easily detached from the stigma, its appearance is unaltered, and it remains visible with the duration of the flower, which will continue a long time.

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS ABOUT PRUNING.

The Gard'ner at work, ere the birds pipe a tune,
Each fruit-tree inspects, then commences to prune;
The insects destroying, on branches or root,
That injure the blossom, or live in the fruit.

As the season for pruning fruit-trees and vines commences in the various parts of our country at different periods, according to the climate, I would submit a few general remarks on the subject, with a view to prepare the gardener for the performance of the work in a skilful manner, and at the proper season; for be it remembered that untimely or injudicious pruning may produce injury instead of benefit, and in many cases defeat the real object of the operation.

Having given ample directions for the cultivation of the various species of fruit, I would recommend the novice to peruse every article before he enters upon the work of the garden. He will there discover that no single rule will apply to every kind of fruit; first, because the mode of bearing is different in almost every distinct species; secondly, because the sap rises earlier and continues longer in the branches of some species than in others; and thirdly, because some trees, as the Plum for instance, are apt to gum if pruned too soon in the season, and the grape-vine to bleed if delayed too long. For the above, and other reasons that may be given, the gardener should examine all his fruit-trees frequently, with his implements at hand; and if circumstances will not admit of a general pruning, he may cut off dead branches, and clear trees from moss and canker, also search for the nests of insects, and destroy them while in a torpid state. This will assist the natural efforts of the trees in casting off the crude and undigested juices, which, if confined in them, will in a short time destroy them, or some of their branches.

In pruning all descriptions of trees, some general rules may be observed. In cutting out defective branches, prune close to the healthy wood, and also shorten such shoots as have

been injured by the winter, to the full extent, or even a few inches beyond, where damage has been sustained.

The limbs of young and thrifty trees should not be too closely pruned, because this would occasion more lateral shoots to put forth than is beneficial to the tree; which, if not rubbed off in the summer while quite young, and as it were herbaceous, will form crowded branches, which may not yield good fruit. In doing this disbudding, however, care must be taken to leave shoots in a suitable direction, sufficient for the formation of an open and handsome head to the tree, according to its kind.

It may be observed, further, that in the event of young trees, taken from the nursery, being deficient in fibrous roots, as is sometimes the case, close pruning may be necessary to maintain a proper equilibrium between the roots and the head; but it should be borne in mind that foliage is as essential to the maintenance of the roots as roots are necessary to the promotion of the growth of the head; because the secretion of plants being formed in leaves, it follows that secretions cannot take place if leaf-buds are destroyed.

INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT-TREES ARE LIABLE.

Much may be written relative to the various diseases to which fruit-trees are liable, and also to the prevention and destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects which frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our garden. The preventive operations are those of the best culture. Autumn ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the larvæ of bugs, beetles, etc., to the intense frost of our winters, and the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, etc., are beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete destruction effected, by the use of soapsuds, lye, tar, turpentine, sulphur,

pepper, soot, decoction of elder, walnut leaves, tobacco, and other bitter and acrid substances; but perhaps the most effectual way of keeping some of the most pernicious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such fruit as may fall from the trees before the insects have an opportunity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter.

the year.

Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavorable situations, they often become diseased. When this happens, the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees clean by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do, they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation. Barrenness and disease are generally produced by the bad qualities of the earth and air, by a want of water, or by the inroads of insects. These incidents generally show themselves in the early part of Leaves and shoots of any color but the natural green; curled and ragged leaves; branches in a decaying state; shoots growing from the roots instead of from the stem or trunk; the stem diseased in its bark; the gum oozing from various parts thereof are all proofs of the existence of disease. The peach-tree is subject to a disease called the yellows; and the discolored leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms which so frequently attack the roots. Where these are found, they may be removed by a knife or chisel. But if it should appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to prevent other trees from being infected.

WASH FOR FRUIT-TREES.

The following compositions have been known to protect fruit-trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by being used as a wash to the trees inmediately after pruning. The constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger mixture of ingredients than others; but the proportions, as hereafter

described, will not be injurious to any, but will be effectual in the destruction of the larvæ of insects.

For Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach-Trees.-To eight gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper.

For Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum-Trees.-To four gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of black pepper.

For Figs and Vines.-To four gallons of water add half a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a quarter of an ounce of black pepper. All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied to the bark of the trees with a suitable brush.

For the destruction of the Aphis which frequently attacks the Apple, as well as other fruit-trees while young, an application of diluted whale-oil soap to the leaves and branches has been found very efficacious. If whale-oil soap be applied too freely, it may injure young trees or bushes, and sometimes destroy them.

CHECKING THE RAVAGES OF THE CURCULIO.

The most destructive enemy to our fruit is the Curculio, which passes the winter in the earth in a chrysalis state, and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will be ready to commence its attacks at about the time the blossoms appear on our fruit-trees. The eggs are deposited in the Apple, Pear, and also all stone fruit, at a very early stage of their growth, which soon hatch, and small maggots are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop off prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this fruit be gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs, geese, or other animals, a check may

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