VOL. I.]

IN 1799.

[No. 3.

HE situation

of the country which surrounds Carnarvon is remarkable, and merits the attention of the traveller. The whole Isle of Anglesey, twenty four miles over, and seven miles in Carnarvonshire, east of the Menai, may be considered as one vast meadow, guarded by the sea on three sides, and by a range of rocky and majestic mountains on the south, forming a curve like a bow, the two extremities of which, Penmaen Mawr and the Rivals, project into the sea, and are distant from each other about thirty five miles. Upon any of the eminences in the neighbourhood of Carnarvon, we have a complete view of this beautiful meadow.

The observer, at one glance, may count thirty one of these mountains, ranged in front; but how many thirty-ones compose the rear ranks is not easy to determine.

This natural barrier admits but of five narrow and dangerous passes, guarded by five castles,-Deganwy, at the opening of the Conway, which leads to Sychnant, at the foot of Penmaen Mawr; Caer Hun or Bwlch y Ddeufaen, enters at Aber; Dolyddelen, at Nant Ffrancon, opens at Llan

degai; Dol Badarn, at Nant Beris; and Cidwm, at Nant Tal y Llyn, between Moel Elian and Mynydd Mawr.

This vast meadow, thus guarded, was thought the most secure retreat against the South, or stronger Britons, the Romans, Saxons, Danes, and Normans; and this, no doubt, induced the cautious Druids to fix their emporium in Anglesey, which is said. to be a modern island, once joining the main land till the ravages of the sea destroyed the isthmus, near Bangor ferry.

Close within the range of mountains, mentioned above, runs a range of lesser mountains, forming a kind of lining, which still adds to the strength of the barrier. This guard is further strengthened by a line of about twelve forts, and these are placed the nearest together where the grand fence was the least secure. Seven of these were pointed out to me.

Carnarvon is a handsome town. The streets are regular, though the buildings are not, and exceedingly well paved. It is the only place I have seen so in Wales; neither can any place be handsome that is not. The passenger should always be accommodated, whether he rides or walks, with an easy and safe passage. Most of the Welsh towns have the two faults of narrow streets and bad pavement; faults not to be excused.

The parade between the castle and the sea is beautiful, clean, convenient, and much frequented, but the Bangor turnpike road, which is delightful, is more, being unimpeded with dirt, dust, or sea winds.

I found the inhabitants much more civil

than I had a right to expect, and though a stranger, was indulged with books, information, &c., and found myself happy among them.

Owing to various enquiries after druidical remains in Anglesey, which I intended to visit, several gentlemen of Carnarvon offered to conduct me to the various places, and showed me every attention; this I declined, as it would have led me to the tables of the gentry, and deprived me of a treasure I could ill spare, although I have received more than most men, time. The savoury dish and sparkling glass were inadequate to liberty and my own plan. I had no doubt of meeting, in the island, with some intelligent person who could speak English. But in this I was disappointed; I found the land in a low state of cultivation, the inhabitants thinly scattered, and the few I saw knew no language but their own. antiquary does not deserve the name who cannot fast half a day, and live hard the other half. When the guide was conducting me over Moel Elian, between the lakes of Llanberis and Quellyn, I held forth a piece of bread and cheese and said, with a smile,-"This is my dinner." "Thank ye," says he, supposing I had asked him to partake. I trust for drink till I meet with a spring, or an ale-house. The pursuit is entertainment for the head, not the appetite.

THE CASTLE.

An

When Edward the First, about five hundred and fifteen years ago, erected Carnarvon castle, it served the old city Segontium (Old Carnarvon) as St. Alban's served Verulam; drew it into its own vortex. Houses began to shelter themselves, for security, within the castle walls, which I apprehend is about five or six acres, and there are now one hundred and seventy two houses, which compose nine streets. As the powers of the castle failed, the houses increased without the walls, and there appears about six streets, and about three hundred houses more. All these are on the east side of the fortress, for the others are guarded by water. The castle, at a distance, makes a grand and awful appearance, but within, like a man in a consumption, is drawing towards an

end. I was curious to examine the room which gave birth to one of the most unfortunate sovereigns that ever existed, a title to an illustrious race of princes, and the means of uniting and making peace between two quarrelsome nations, that where Edward the Second was born. This I could only see, for no man has entered it, perhaps, for ages, having no floor or ceiling, but is open to the cellar and the sky. Upon expressing my disappointment, the guide told me he could take me to that room in the other tower which exactly matched it, and which I found to be thirty three feet diameter. This fortunate, and unfortunate room, which gave birth to Edward, is in the Eagle Tower, and seems, to an eye without the castle, to be a chamber of considerable elevation, but within is a ground floor, because the land is much higher, and rises only three or four steps. It is nearly circular, or rather an octagon, is fifteen or twenty feet high, has one tire place, and seems, according to the fashion of the day, short of light, nor do the few and small windows there are appear ever to have been glazed, or the walls wainscotted, painted, or white-washed, or the least remains of tapestry or plaster! What would a queen of England, or the ladies of 1799, think of lying in among cold and bare walls? It would shock even the wife of a tailor, make a tinker's grumble, and that of a cobbler strap her husband.

Three roads proceed from Carnarvon, all excellent, on the south, that to Pwllheli, which communicates only with the peninsula that stretches into the sea about thirty miles, and lies between Traeth Mawr and the bay; on the east, that to Beddgelert, which is a beautiful ride; and a third on the north, to Bangor, more beautiful.

The trade of this place, I should think, was considerable; for I saw one morning a fleet of twenty two ships sail from the bay to pursue their several voyages. A place of commerce, situated upon the sea, like that of Carnarvon, necessarily induces the inhabitants to venture upon that uncertain element, consequently upon melancholy accidents; but most of those accidents which came to my knowledge originated in imprudence. They excite both censure and pity.

Some time back, I believe about the year 1783, sixty one people,-men, women, and children, who had come from Anglesey to Carnarvon fair, were about to return. It It was ten o'clock of a dark and tempestuous night, the tide was out, and the sand beds not easily discovered. Under these unfavourable circumstances, their friends entreated them to stay; but people elevated with liquor are not easily persuaded. They ventured, swerved from the usual pass, got about three miles to the south, near Abermenai, and struck against a sand bed. The most lamentable cries of distress

A young attorney had come from Anglesey to transact business, which held him till a dark hour. He would not wait till morning, but, contrary to the advice of friends, the water being very low, would ride his horse over; I believe near Llanvair church. The horse found his way home, but his rider the way to the bottom. A short time after, he was discovered, standing upright in the sand.

While musing in my chamber over a book, in August, 1799, I was alarmed by a shrieking in the street. Looking out, I saw people running to the beach, in the

were now extended both to Anglesey and Carnarvon, but no vessel durst venture to their assistance. The tide was flowing in. What then must be the horror of their feelings, who saw inevitable death approaching by inches! Sixty of these persons perished, one only was saved, and he by adhering to floatable matter. This multitude was lost through obstinacy.

While my family were at Carnavon, in 1797, the man who guided the helm of the ferry bo t in crossing to Anglesey, being intoxicated, fell overboard, and was lost. He perished by the ale barrel.

utmost terror. I followed, and found about a dozen people in great consternation, which, in three or four minutes, increased to five hundred. Upon enquiry, I was told a boat had just sunk, with two men; that they were bringing stone, had overloaded the vessel, which, striking against a sand bank, and not yielding to the waves, they flowed in, and instantly sunk her. One only could swim; the other laid hold of the plank, which bore him up. I saw their heads, like two small black spots, just above water, a considerable distance asunder, and more than half a

mile from the shore. Seven boats issued from various parts of the beach, to give assistance. I saw them brought to land. They seemed a couple of sturdy fellows, advanced in years, who did not much regard their late situation. The most circumspect may fall, but he who voluntarily enters into evils, with his eyes open, may meet with dreadful consequences; he who plays with danger may win destruction.

The market at Carnarvon is numerously attended with supplies for the town for the ensuing week. It is difficult to procure a joint, or even necessaries for family use, on any other day. Standing in a shop where provisions were sold, a person applied for some cheese. The mistress took up a piece which lay on the counter, nearly two pounds. "How much do you choose?" "The whole." "I cannot spare more than half a pound, for this is all there is in Carnarvon!"

The people of Anglesey are great supporters of the market, with the productions of the island; and, I believe, often pinch themselves to supply others; for money must be had. The ferry boat, at Tal y Foel, is fully employed on Saturday morning and evening, to bring and return them. I saw it unload thirty eight persons at one time, every one with a luggage for the market, and each solicitous to quit the vessel; and who does not rejoice to leave a prison? The men were assiduous, I observed, to assist the young women, but the old, who stood most in need of assistance were left to shift for themselves. Some of these poor helpless things, in jumping on shore, jumped into the water, but instantly walked off, and a little ashamed; but I think the men ought rather to have taken shame to themselves. Perhaps the English fair are treated with more attention than the Welsh. They are, however, treated with less labour.

Observing the sea very rough, and the wind strong, on a succeeding market day, I said to a gentleman, "Dare the people of Anglesey venture over?" "Yes, but they cannot return."

Neither coal nor wood are in the neighbourhood of Carnarvon. Half this arises from the neglect of public good, and of the landlord's private interest, in not planting

timber for beauty, profit, and use. Whoever visits Wales, sees her nakedness. British timber has been long declining, and there are two reasons why the generations of trees, like those of men, do not succeed each other. The landlord is too inattentive to plant, because no advantage can accrue in his life time; and the tenant will prevent the growth except he can make free with the crop. This neglect will soon become a national grievance.

The coal which supplies Carnarvon may be said to be purchased from the sea, for the carts run up to the axle-tree, to load foreign coal from the vessel. The inhabitants suffer great inconvenience when a supply is detained by contrary winds. The remedy would be found in a coal wharf.

THE JUMPERS.

There is as much necessity to change a mode of religion as a coat; for both, by using, become feeble, and wear out; they may, with safety, be renewed by a skilful preacher, and an able tailor. Time will again wear both to rags, and call for another renewal. Whenever a new religion is broached, or rather, the renovation of an old one, it gives umbrage to the world, but the philosopher will examine whether it is monstrous in itself, or only in his own eye. No people, in a free state, were more cruelly treated than the Methodists, and yet they taught the original doctrines of their persecutors; as if the world would not suffer a new religion, or preserve the purity of the old. Time, however, induces the professors to bend a little to the world, and the world to them, which promotes harmony; thus the Quakers were as much abused as they are now venerated. we censure, we ought to be certain we are right, and the censured wrong.

Before

Perhaps many of the people in Carnarvon, like those of every other place, are not attached to any society of religionists. The higher class cast an eye to the bottle, and the lower to the stroll. I attended prayers twice at the church, where the congregation, the first time, consisted of sixteen persons, and the second, of eighteen.

I also visited a dissenting meeting-house;