minor ports of Chañeral de las Animas, latitude 26° 24'; Paposo, latitude 25° 02′; and Barranquillas, latitude 27° 31', as well as Caldera, was carried on in 355 vessels, measuring 114,768 tons. Of these, 208 arrivals were of national vessels, 130 English vessels, (including semimonthly steamers,) and 4 American vessels. At the minor ports, vessels only call when they know that a load of copper ore is ready; and as the transportation from the mine is on the back of mules, the process of collecting a ship-load is tedious, and several years probably elapse between their visits.

Southwest of Caldera, and separated from it by a rocky peninsula a mile wide across the sandy neck connecting it with the main land, is Port Yngles. Its entrance is open to the northwest, and only four cable-lengths across, after which it widens into a bay a mile broad, of nearly the same length, and having two or three coves secure against all winds. The water is very deep, clear, and smooth; but the bottom is hard and stony, and in consequence is not so good holding-ground as that of Caldera. Nevertheless, the facilities it offers for building wharves, and the less swell than in the former port, would have secured its selection as a terminus for the road, but that the distance must have been increased two miles, or a heavy grade constructed at the very outset. There are no settlers on this bay, and I do not know of any vessel that has visited it legally since H. B. M. surveying ship Beagle.

So much is elsewhere said of the harbor within the mouth of the Maule-Constitucion-that little remains to be told except for strictly professional men. Its latitude is 35° 19′, and the approach to it rendered unmistakable by the Piedra Iglesia (church rock,) which lies mile to the southward. If the wind be fresh, or was so on the day preceding, the breakers across the bar, or certainly on its southern extremity, will clearly designate one of the dangers to be cared for, and one must patiently wait the tardy movements of the harbor pilot. In fine weather a ship may anchor temporarily two to three miles northwest of the Piedra Iglesia, though it is better to remain under weigh and keep to the southward of the port. Boats may land on the outer beach under Cerro Mutün, or, as it is called in the sailing directions of Captain Fitzroy, Maule Head; but there is always delay and no little risk in attempting it, for the surf is constantly high and always treacherous, and the beach of sand is so mixed with broken shells that it is too soft and steep for even a whale-boat to be hauled up without danger. Yet, with a little enterprise, how great a place in Chile this might have been! As long ago as 1835, Captain Fitzroy said of it: "To land here was perplexing enough, for a heavy surf broke on the bar of the river, and nearly as much along the shore; but with some risk and difficulty we effected our purpose in two light whale-boats, which could be hauled up directly they touched the beach. Nearly all the population of a thriving village, called Constitucion, came down to meet us (on the 21st) and assist in hauling our boats up the steep though yielding sand, where, for our comfort, they told us a whale-boat's crew had been drowned not long previously in attempting to land. From a height overlooking the river, village, and neighborhood, we enjoyed a very pleasing view so long as we turned away from the bar of the river, and the surf. A rich country and a fine river are pleasing things at all times, but the difficult approach to Constitucion mars half its beauty. Only the smallest craft can cross the bar; it is dangerous for boats to land on the outer beach, and difficult for them to profit by the few opportunities which occur of passing the bar without risk." "Notwithstanding these local disadvantages, Constitucion may thrive wonderfully hereafter, by the help of small steamers; for she has a most productive country around her, abounding in internal as well as external wealth, and a navigable river at command. Besides this, in 1805 a very practicable passage was discovered through the Andes, about seventy leagues south of Mendoza, not far from the latitude of the river Maule, almost entirely level, and fit for wagons-the only pass of such a description between the Isthmus of Darien and Patagonia." It was only when the harbor of Valdivia, in latitude 39° 53′, had been thoroughly surveyed, that navigators learned how small a portion of its extended waters were suited for vessels above the size of coasters. Previously it had been pronounced by several-and one of them no less

a person than that paladin of modern sailors, Lord Cochran-the finest harbor in the Pacific. At the entrance, the distance between Morro de Gonzales, on the south shore, and Molino point, northeast of it, is two and three-quarter miles. Both eminences are high and covered with wood, as are all the hills of the vicinity. From mid-channel there, to the narrowest part of the harbor in a southeast direction, the distance is two miles and a quarter; all that portion of the bay being without hidden dangers, except close in with Molino point, though considerably exposed to the action of the wind and sea. Just beyond this an extensive sand-bank, of late years dry at low water, is formed by the silt brought down in the water of the river, whose form and dimensions are subject to constant vicissitudes. Here the basin assumes a totally different form, suddenly widening to twice its dimensions at the narrows, and then dividing into two river-like inlets, one of which extends in a south by east direction three and a half miles, and the other toward the southeast more than five miles. Midway between the sandbank and the point of the promontory separating the inlets is Manzera island, half a mile in length and 300 feet high, its northern point being in a line with, and distant from, the south shore of the river more than three fourths of a mile. No vessel drawing more than twelve feet water should attempt to enter the latter, and under all circumstances it is safest to have the local pilot's advice. The best anchorage for large vessels has been found in the little cove immediately west of the bank, and where the shore is quite steep, and the water so deep and smooth that they may be hove down in all security so close that a good long plank will reach the land. Lord Cochran hove down and repaired the frigate O'Higgins here, after his gallant capture of all the fortifications in 1820. There also is the best watering-place; and provisions may be had in abundance and at moderate rates from the town, eight miles distant.

At one time Valdivia was regarded as almost impregnable. The fortresses which were commenced by the Dutch squadron under Hendrick Brower, in 1643, were added to and strengthened when recovered by the Spaniards, until nine separate batteries had been erected on opposite shores of the harbor. Their 118 guns of all calibres (when Lord Cochran attacked it) were so mounted as to rake the entrance and channel from several points at the same time. Fifteen years later the forts were almost in ruins, and the guns so nearly disabled that they could hardly fire a salute without danger. Only four are now garrisoned, and these mount but 22 guns, of which 6 form a mountain battery constantly in demand against the neighboring Indian tribes.

From 1848 to 1851, both inclusive, there entered the port 121 national and 45 foreign vessels ; the former measuring 28,799 tons, and the latter 12,180. Of the foreign vessels, 8 were under the American flag and registered 2,192 tons; though from the Custom House returns they scarcely appear to have had trade sufficient to pay port dues, the total invoices of goods landed amounting only to $587. Within this district is also Rio Bueno, across whose bar very small crafts can pass.

The last revenue district whose port remains to be specially described, embraces not only the island of Chilóe, with its multitude of good harbors and safe coves, but also San Miguel, a harbor in latitude 50° 17', on the eastern shore of Madre island, and which is spoken of as a convenient anchorage. The name of this district and its most frequented port is Ancud, or, as it was called by its founders, San Carlos. It is situated at the northern extremity of Chilóe, in latitude 41° 51'. Formerly Castro, about midway of the eastern shore of the island, was the capital of the province, and there the annual ships from Peru landed their treasures. San Carlos is a broad and open bay, more than ten miles across, whose southwest termination is a land-locked inlet or harbor, quite four miles in length by an average width of one mile. Unlike most of the other ports that have been mentioned, it has several shoals and obstacles for the navigator to avoid, whose risks are no little increased by strong tides. Once anchored in Port San Carlos, as the inlet is called, a ship may lie in all security. However, to facilitate loading and discharging, the usual berth is much nearer to the town, situated on a little promontory at the bottom of the bay; but this is greatly more exposed during the prevalent northerly and

*

westerly winds; and as the bottom is both shoal and rocky, and a heavy swell immediately sets in, the anchorage is very unsafe.

When the island was under the rule of Spain, the port was in a good state of defence. There were two fortifications on points of Lacuy peninsula, northwest of the town, which commanded both entrance and anchorage; several batteries on the town side, and one on Corona point, the northern extremity of the island. Most of these were long since suffered to fall into decay, and now only two, mounting in all fourteen pieces of artillery, remain guarded; even these can scarcely be considered in serviceable order. What its commerce was under the laws of the mother country, may be judged of very fairly from Byron's narrative of the loss of the Wager. He says: "They have what they call an annual ship from Lima, as they never expect more than one in the year; though sometimes it happens that two have come, and at other times they have been two or three years without any. When this happens they are greatly distressed, as this ship brings them baize, cloth, linens, hats, ribbons, tobacco, sugar, brandy, and wine; but this latter article is chiefly for the use of the churches: matte, an herb from Paraguay, used all over South America instead of tea, is also a necessary article. This ship's cargo is chiefly consigned to the Jesuits, who have more Indians employed for them than all the rest of the inhabitants together, and, of course, engross almost the whole trade. There is no money current in this island. If any person wants a few yards of linen, a little sugar, tobacco, or any other thing, brought from Peru, he gives so many cedar planks, hams, or punchos (ponchos) in exchange. Some time after we had been here a snow arrived in the harbor from Lima, which occasioned great joy amongst the inhabitants, as they had no ship the year before, from the alarm Lord Anson had given upon the coast. This was not the annual vessel, but one of those that I mentioned before which came unexpectedly. The captain of her was an old man, well known upon the island, who had traded here once in two or three years for more than thirty years past. He had a remarkably large head, and therefore was commonly known by a nick-name they had given him of Cabuço (Cabeza) de Toro, or Bull Head. He had not been here a week before he came to the governor and told him, with a most melancholy countenance, that he had not slept a wink since he came into the harbor, as the governor was pleased to allow these English prisoners liberty to walk about, instead of confining them, and that he expected every moment they would board his vessel and carry her away; this he said when he had above thirty hands aboard. The governor assured him he would be answerable for us, and that he might sleep in quiet; though at the same time he could not help laughing at the man, as all the people in the town did. These assurances did not satisfy the captain; he used the utmost despatch in disposing of his cargo, and put to sea again, not thinking himself safe till he had lost sight of the island.' Great must have been the terror inspired by Lord Anson's squadron, of which poor Byron's vessel formed one.

Its safe harbor and abundant supplies of the provisions most needed by ships, made it a favorite resort for whalers in the South Pacific; and as soon as relief from the Spanish incubus permitted the port to be thrown open, the number of vessels calling for refreshments rapidly increased. The coasting trade, too, has augmented in far greater ratio than either the population of the island or that of the entire country. An exhibit of the last four years is given in the following table:

2

Of the foreign vessels during the above period, fourteen were English, thirteen French, and ten Peruvians.

These are the ports resorted to by foreign vessels most generally; nor are they permitted to enter others without first anchoring at one of them and obtaining permission to do so. Except for an occasional load of copper sometimes conveyed to points of the coast north of Valparaiso, or perhaps coal from the Colcura or Coronel mines, south of Talcahuano, there is nothing to attract them elsewhere, and no shelters in stress of weather. Vessels coming through the Straits of Magellan have sometimes found it necessary to stop for wood* and water, or by adverse winds, at Port Bulnes, a good harbor within the first narrows; but it has no trade whatever, and hitherto the convict colonists have not been able to cultivate a sufficient supply for their own wants.

Most disastrous have proved the two attempts to form settlements here. First, the King of Spain despatched a numerous fleet, under the command of Sarmiento, in 1582, who founded a city with all the pomp and solemnities practised on like occasions by his nation at that era, giving to it the name of San Felipe, in honor of his royal master. Four hundred men and women were embarked for this colony; though it is probable that a portion of them never reached the locality, as we have authentic record of only three fourths of that number having landed on the shores which had played so treacherous a part when that most energetic and faithful officer and seaman had first passed to the eastward through the straits. Of these, only two survived, one of whom was picked up by Cavendish, who called the place Port Famine, in allusion to the fate of the emigrants, nearly all of whom had died from starvation; and the last survivor was taken off in 1589 by Andrew Mericke, though he did not live to cross the Atlantic. And subsequently, when the young republic of Chile found Juan Fernandez an impracticable penal settlement, the prisoners were transferred to Port Famine, to which the name of Port Bulnes was given in honor of their then President. Inducements were offered other citizens to emigrate there, and at the close of 1849 the population comprised 378 persons, of whom 194 were men, 88 married women, and the remainder children. Owing to the fostering care of the government, their condition was reported to be most prosperous; sheep, hogs, and black cattle had been introduced, which multiplied well; and the prospects were that wheat, potatoes, and certain vegetables, could be cultivated advantageously: but there was not a soul willing to remain beyond the term of condemnation or service for which he had stipulated. Hoping to make them more contented, and to advance the growth of the colony more rapidly, a new governor was sent out, with enlarged powers, in February, 1851; but, instead of attaining the desired objects, the prisoners and a part of his own guard mutinied during the revolutionary struggle of the same year, barbarously murdered him and the priest, and made their escape in two vessels lying in the harbor, of which they took possession forcibly. A part of the criminals were retaken and executed, and another governor sent there in 1852, of whom my last intelligence (May, 1853) was, that himself and six companions had been made prisoners by the Patagonians and carried to the interior of the country six months previously. Large sums had been offered for their ransom, and it was still hoped that they would be liberated.

ISLANDS.

Of the thousand islands which line the western coast of Patagonia, we have little intelligence. The region is too wild and rugged, and the soil too cold and moist, to encourage the settlement of civilized human beings; and the few wretched Indians who wander from place to place along their inhospitable shores are driven to exist on a scanty supply of seals and fish snatched from the ocean. Excepting the unfortunate colony in the Straits of Magellan, Chilóe

* There are also veins of coal more than five feet thick in the vicinity, but they have never been worked for want of intelligent miners.

and the smaller islands between it and the main land, as far south as Caylin, are the most austral settlements acknowledging Christian rule.*

Chilóe, or the "ysla grande," as it is designated by the natives in contradistinction to the numerous lesser islands about it, is the most northern of the series extending from Cape Horn to the southern extremity of Chile proper. It lies between the parallels of 41° 46′ and 43° 26′, and the western meridians 73° 23′ and 74° 27', and is separated from the continent to the eastward by the Corcovado and Ancud gulfs, whose average breadth is about thirty miles. The strait or narrows of Chacao, between the northern end of the island and the main land, is only two miles wide. The western and southern shores are tolerably unbroken in the direction of their lines ; the eastern and northern are deeply indented, so that the mean breadth of the island probably will not exceed 38 miles. This gives an area of 3,800 square miles, whose average elevation above the sea is more than 500 feet. None of the hills rise higher than 2,600 feet; and except in small cleared tracts about the towns, nearly all the land is covered with dense forests. These embrace Robles, Alerce, Mañu, Avellana, Muermo, and other varieties of useful woods, of which large quantities are exported. From the numberless rivers interlacing them, the forests render the country almost untraversable except along the road from San Carlos to Castro, and in their immediate vicinity. On this account, and as most of the inhabitants live within a short distance of the eastern shore, very little is known of the interior of the country. On the western side there is a lake 12 miles long, which communicates with the sea; several smaller ones on the southern half of the island; and many short streams flowing from the central ridge in both directions.

During six years' experience of Padre Agüeros, (Descripcion Historial de la Provincia y Archipielago de Chilóe,) ice had never been known even in the small streams, and frost or snow was very rare. Rains, however, are continual during many months of the year, and are known to fall without ceasing during an entire lunation, accompanied by violent winds from the north and west. Nor can the weather be depended on when it is fine even in summer; for in the month of January he often experienced as heavy storms of wind and rain as during the winter months, and good weather lasted only so long as the wind prevailed from the south. Capt. King was led to believe that the longitudinal range of hills traversing the island, by arresting a portion of the wind and rain from the Pacific, very sensibly modified the climate of the eastern side and the islands in the Gulf of Ancud, these enjoying much finer weather than was to be experienced about San Carlos. The inhabitants also say that their climate is undergoing change, and rains are not so frequent as formerly. They attribute it to the gradual clearing of the land and disappearance of the forests. Yet, cloudy and damp as writers have made it, fine crops of wheat, barley, and potatoes, are raised every year. This archipelago is one of the native localities of the potato, whose cultivation here, as elsewhere, has transformed a watery and insipid tuber into one of the most valuable esculents known. Horses, cattle, and swine, propagate rapidly and contribute to the commerce of the island, whilst its coasts abound with fish, oysters, and other shell-fish, which enter largely into the consumption of its inhabitants.

Chilóe was first seen by the party under Don G. H. de Mendoza, who, in 1558, started from Valdivia to discover the Straits of Magellan, at that time supposed to be the only opening between the north and south seas. Alonzo de Ercilla, the since famous epic poet, and one of his companions, tells us of a supposed broad lake, with many beautiful inhabited islands, from among which a gondola came to them, impelled by twelve oars. The Indian rowers leaped to the shore, and saluted the Spaniards humbly and reverently, evidently regarding them as

* When the Intendente or Governor of the province visited Castro for the purpose of taking a census of the population, a family of Indians waited upon him to render an account of their property; who, upon being asked whence they came, replied, "Del fin de la Christiandad." The name being new to the Intendente, it was explained to him that they belonged to Caylin, which was more generally known by the above name, because there existed no Christian population beyond, or to the southward of that island.—Narrative of the Surveying Voyages of H. B M. Ships Adventure and Beagle, vol. i.